My Technique shooting Macro Insects

hangman43 · 06-20-2013, 08:05 PM - **15 Likes**

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I have been asked by a few on here to share my technique for getting my macro photos so here it is.
This is probably going to end up being a multi-part post because really hate typing.

I will start by sharing my equipment set up.

Latest set-up: Pentax K-5 camera with Lester Dine 105-mm macro lens, Yongnuo YN-560 speedlight, Cowboy Studios 6x7 Softbox diffuser.

7-inch Magic Friction Arm: Amazon.com: BestDealUSA 7" Inch Adjustable Friction Power Articulating Magic Arm for LCD Monitor LED: Electronics
L-grip bracket: Amazon.com: Heavy Duty Photography L Bracket with 2 Standard Flash Hot Shoe Mounts: Camera & Photo
Cowboy Studios 6x7 Softbox: 6" x 7" Softbox for Nikon Flash Canon Speedlight for Nikon SB 600 SB 800 | eBay
Wireless flash triggers: PT04

All my shots are hand held I use a milk crate to sit on and always try to keep my flash at no more than 1/4 power for the shortest duration of flash that helps freeze any movement.
I do the move camera back and forth to focus with the lens always at max magnification and always try to get the insect in the focal plane so I can get as much of the subject in focus as I can.
Here is an example of the insect being in the focal plane.

Here is one where I could not get it in the focal plane.

I have figured out that F/16 gives me the best results with my lens and that is where it stays 80% of the time I have shot some at F/18 and F/22 with acceptable results but not as consistent plus I have to use a higher ISO or up the flash power I try not to go over ISO 400 and most are shot at 1/180th sec unless I am trying to let more ambient light in.

Here is an example of a shot where I wanted more ambient light. Shot at F/16 at 1/100 sec

This shot was in the same location but at F/16 at 1/180 notice how the background is almost black.

That is all for today will continue tomorrow.

SpecialK · 06-20-2013, 08:54 PM

Those are all very impressive images and far beyond my patience and determination, much less skill.

**geomez** · 06-20-2013, 09:57 PM

Thank you for this. I recently bought a Tamron 90mm 2.8 and was blown away my first time shooting with no macro experience and just the sun for illumination. I've since been trying to up my game, but don't know how to start. This is a big help for me.

**geomez** · 06-20-2013, 10:04 PM

hangman43, have you ever used a ring flash for insect macro? I was thinking that was a good idea for macro before seeing this post.

hangman43 · 06-20-2013, 10:19 PM

Originally posted by geomez

hangman43, have you ever used a ring flash for insect macro? I was thinking that was a good idea for macro before seeing this post.

I have a ring flash but I have not used it in about a year I have gotten much better results since I went to the system I use now. Keep watching this thread I am going to add to it daily thinking about showing some of my older stuff as a comparison to what I get now I might even break the ring flash out to show the results and also a few variations of soft boxes. I will also go through my post processing routine.

**crewl1** · 06-20-2013, 10:54 PM

Thanks for the post hangman, this is great info. I look forward to the next installment!

**arnold** · 06-21-2013, 01:09 AM

What I appreciate is your attempt to get maximum depth of field. All very well done.

JohnX · 06-21-2013, 02:35 AM

Do you really need the flash triggers in your rig? Wouldn't a cable do as well?

VisualDarkness · 06-21-2013, 03:57 AM

Nice result! I got tons of flashes but no good setup, I should go your way.

p44f · 06-21-2013, 04:33 AM

Very good results. In your place I would add one more flash.

hangman43 · 06-21-2013, 04:56 AM

Originally posted by JohnX

Do you really need the flash triggers in your rig? Wouldn't a cable do as well?

Yes a cable would do the same thing but I already had triggers and did not have a cable.

hangman43 · 06-21-2013, 04:58 AM

Originally posted by p44f

Very good results. In your place I would add one more flash.

I could easily add more flash but I try to get it to look like it did to my eyes I want a natural look.

BrianR · 06-21-2013, 04:59 AM

Originally posted by JohnX

Do you really need the flash triggers in your rig? Wouldn't a cable do as well?

A cable would work. Wireless lets you easily add more flashes to this setup if desired. The wireless receiver acts as a hotshoe to female thread for easy mounting to the mini-magic arm. And less cords is always nice.

p44f · 06-21-2013, 05:07 AM

Originally posted by hangman43

I could easily add more flash but I try to get it to look like it did to my eyes I want a natural look.

With one flash you get very strong shadows and very dark background, which I doubt your eyes see

hangman43 · 06-21-2013, 05:41 AM

Originally posted by p44f

With one flash you get very strong shadows and very dark background, which I doubt your eyes see

I can adjust background brightness with the shutter speed as for the shadows my eyes do see shadows natural light usually comes from one direction. I have a ring flash that leaves no shadows but without shadows pictures look very flat.
The dark background has more to do with shutter speed than flash power as long as I shoot at 1/180 sec it will almost always leave a dark background especially when shooting in to an area that has nothing for the flash to bounce off of I could have 10 flashes aimed at the subject and if there is nothing for that light to bounce off of it will still leave a dark background.

06-20-2013, 08:05 PM - 15 Likes	#1
hangman43 Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Hueytown, Alabama Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,508	My Technique shooting Macro Insects Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here. I have been asked by a few on here to share my technique for getting my macro photos so here it is. This is probably going to end up being a multi-part post because really hate typing. I will start by sharing my equipment set up. Latest set-up: Pentax K-5 camera with Lester Dine 105-mm macro lens, Yongnuo YN-560 speedlight, Cowboy Studios 6x7 Softbox diffuser. 7-inch Magic Friction Arm: Amazon.com: BestDealUSA 7" Inch Adjustable Friction Power Articulating Magic Arm for LCD Monitor LED: Electronics L-grip bracket: Amazon.com: Heavy Duty Photography L Bracket with 2 Standard Flash Hot Shoe Mounts: Camera & Photo Cowboy Studios 6x7 Softbox: 6" x 7" Softbox for Nikon Flash Canon Speedlight for Nikon SB 600 SB 800 \| eBay Wireless flash triggers: PT04 All my shots are hand held I use a milk crate to sit on and always try to keep my flash at no more than 1/4 power for the shortest duration of flash that helps freeze any movement. I do the move camera back and forth to focus with the lens always at max magnification and always try to get the insect in the focal plane so I can get as much of the subject in focus as I can. Here is an example of the insect being in the focal plane. Here is one where I could not get it in the focal plane. I have figured out that F/16 gives me the best results with my lens and that is where it stays 80% of the time I have shot some at F/18 and F/22 with acceptable results but not as consistent plus I have to use a higher ISO or up the flash power I try not to go over ISO 400 and most are shot at 1/180th sec unless I am trying to let more ambient light in. Here is an example of a shot where I wanted more ambient light. Shot at F/16 at 1/100 sec This shot was in the same location but at F/16 at 1/180 notice how the background is almost black. That is all for today will continue tomorrow.

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06-20-2013, 08:54 PM	#2
SpecialK Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: So California Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,482	Those are all very impressive images and far beyond my patience and determination, much less skill.

06-20-2013, 09:57 PM	#3
geomez Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Roanoke, Virginia, USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,760	Thank you for this. I recently bought a Tamron 90mm 2.8 and was blown away my first time shooting with no macro experience and just the sun for illumination. I've since been trying to up my game, but don't know how to start. This is a big help for me.

06-20-2013, 10:04 PM	#4
geomez Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Roanoke, Virginia, USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,760	hangman43, have you ever used a ring flash for insect macro? I was thinking that was a good idea for macro before seeing this post.

06-20-2013, 10:19 PM	#5
hangman43 Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Hueytown, Alabama Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,508 Original Poster	Originally posted by geomez hangman43, have you ever used a ring flash for insect macro? I was thinking that was a good idea for macro before seeing this post. I have a ring flash but I have not used it in about a year I have gotten much better results since I went to the system I use now. Keep watching this thread I am going to add to it daily thinking about showing some of my older stuff as a comparison to what I get now I might even break the ring flash out to show the results and also a few variations of soft boxes. I will also go through my post processing routine.

06-20-2013, 10:54 PM	#6
crewl1 Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Los Angeles, CA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 9,807	Thanks for the post hangman, this is great info. I look forward to the next installment!

06-21-2013, 01:09 AM	#7
arnold Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 4,299	What I appreciate is your attempt to get maximum depth of field. All very well done.

06-21-2013, 02:35 AM	#8
JohnX Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: London Posts: 1,116	Do you really need the flash triggers in your rig? Wouldn't a cable do as well?

06-21-2013, 03:57 AM	#9
VisualDarkness Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Uppsala, Sweden Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,439	Nice result! I got tons of flashes but no good setup, I should go your way.

06-21-2013, 04:33 AM	#10
p44f Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Ljubljana Posts: 26	Very good results. In your place I would add one more flash.

06-21-2013, 04:56 AM	#11
hangman43 Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Hueytown, Alabama Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,508 Original Poster	Originally posted by JohnX Do you really need the flash triggers in your rig? Wouldn't a cable do as well? Yes a cable would do the same thing but I already had triggers and did not have a cable.

06-21-2013, 04:58 AM	#12
hangman43 Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Hueytown, Alabama Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,508 Original Poster	Originally posted by p44f Very good results. In your place I would add one more flash. I could easily add more flash but I try to get it to look like it did to my eyes I want a natural look.

06-21-2013, 04:59 AM	#13
BrianR Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Ontario Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,332	Originally posted by JohnX Do you really need the flash triggers in your rig? Wouldn't a cable do as well? A cable would work. Wireless lets you easily add more flashes to this setup if desired. The wireless receiver acts as a hotshoe to female thread for easy mounting to the mini-magic arm. And less cords is always nice.

06-21-2013, 05:07 AM	#14
p44f Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Ljubljana Posts: 26	Originally posted by hangman43 I could easily add more flash but I try to get it to look like it did to my eyes I want a natural look. With one flash you get very strong shadows and very dark background, which I doubt your eyes see

06-21-2013, 05:41 AM	#15
hangman43 Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Hueytown, Alabama Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,508 Original Poster	Originally posted by p44f With one flash you get very strong shadows and very dark background, which I doubt your eyes see I can adjust background brightness with the shutter speed as for the shadows my eyes do see shadows natural light usually comes from one direction. I have a ring flash that leaves no shadows but without shadows pictures look very flat. The dark background has more to do with shutter speed than flash power as long as I shoot at 1/180 sec it will almost always leave a dark background especially when shooting in to an area that has nothing for the flash to bounce off of I could have 10 flashes aimed at the subject and if there is nothing for that light to bounce off of it will still leave a dark background.