[dougfrey]

Need some assistance with using long telephoto lens. I have a K-5II and rented a Sigma 150-500mm, could not get sharp pictures, actually they were terrible. I used a tripod, with stabilization on both lens and camera turned off. I have seen photos using this lens and the K5II and the looked great. What if anything am I doing wrong?

[SpecialK]

Post a sample with exif.

[jatrax]

A good read: Long Lens Techniques | OutdoorPhotographer.com

Using a long lens is an acquired skill. Orders of magnitude more difficult that a shorter lens. Little things that you don't even notice at 200mm become major issues at 500mm. The most common issue is the tripod, it has to be sturdy enough to support the lens / camera properly. Not just keep it from falling over but keep all vibrations damped out.

Like SpecialK says post an example with the EXIF intact, without that anyone is just guessing.

[VisualDarkness]

What shutter speeds at what focal lengths? It takes a bit of practice to find a steady and comfortable style but if my weak arms can handle it, most arms can.

[ismaelg]

Hi,

What settings are you using? Shutter speed is critical with long lenses.
A good starting point is 1/focal lenght. For 500mm focal lenght, no less than 1/500s
Even the vibration from the mirror slapping up and down can affect it. Use mirror lock-up if possible.
Also, with long lenses, higher ISO can be your friend. Don't be afraid to crank it up.
As others have said, post some sample pics with exif data to get a better idea of what is going on.

Thanks,

[interested_observer]

Question - How were you using your tripod - center column up (I am guessing)?

About a year ago I acquired an A* 300/f4 and have been shooting far cityscapes at night. It does not have a tripod collar and the lens is a bit physically long for the camera baseplate, so even with using a remote shutter release, I do get more vibration that what can be really tolerated. I have plans to augment my mechanical support, but in the mean time, not using the column up does make a positive difference.

I also use live view extensively when up on the tripod, but the shutter release brings the mirror back down and then lifts it up again for the shot. Mirror lockup is the solution here, and it is on the upper arrow of the 4 way button set M.UP

Shooting telephoto is a whole lot different than that of wide angle. I am slowly paying my way through the University of Hard Knocks.

hope that may help a bit....

[dougfrey]

Here you go, thanks for the assistance.

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

File Date

 

[dougfrey]

Here is another one.

[dougfrey]

Here is another one

[boriscleto]

On the first shutter speed way too low, aperture too high + high ISO. It is overexposed because the camera was metering the dark background.

On the second you could have increased the shutter speed as you had plenty of light.

You will need a shutter speed of at least 1/500s. Try to keep the aperture at f/8 or wider, though DoF can be tricky wider than f/8.

[calsan]

You're shooting at high ISO and closed right down to f/13, also the shutter speed is only 1/100, which is way too slow.
You're using aperture priority, which is good.

So, at 500mm you need a minimum of 1/500. Just open the aperture all the way up and try again. Adjust the ISO so that you get a shutter speed around 1/750 and see how that looks. If the subject is moving, increase the ISO a bit to keep blur to a minimum, but try and keep it below 800 for best results.

So, in summary, increase shutter speed and increase the aperture size - it will be sharpest close to wide open.

[VisualDarkness]

Here you go, thanks for the assistance.

Why F13 and 1/100s at 500mm? I would rather have shot wide open with a high shutter speed instead, also it's overexposed making it look softer.

Here is another one

A bit better but still a bit slow shutter speed. 1/250 at 500mm with antishake is possible but be ready to trade off keeper rate for it.

[ismaelg]

You can do the following experiment:
TAv mode, shutter speed: 1/500s, aperture f8
See where the ISO lands. That should give you an idea of where to go. You can repeat with 1/750s to compare.

[Bob from Aus]

Here you go, thanks for the assistance.

At ISO 3200 i would consider it an OK photo

I have used the sigma 50-500 extensively. I found using a flash manually on full and low ISO produced good wildlife photos. I think the only time the lens went on the tripod was to photograph the moon and as my copy of the 500-500 is soft at infinity at 500mm the photos were crap in any case.

I now have a 500mm prime sigma and don't need to use the flash. Also using the tripod is now worth the effort. Looking back the flash on the sigma zoom made all the difference. With all the glass in the zoom lens, I think it just needs more light.

[nomadkng]

I had a similar thread topic started a couple months back.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/general-technical-troubleshooting/225673-...ml#post2395418

although the topic was a little more esoteric, the advice/thoughts exchanged by some of the more advanced long lens shooters here are applicable.

I even talk about my "burst" methodology, where I shoot in groups of 3-4 pics to offset handheld movement.

as mentioned by many, the keeper rate is not high, but I did manage to get a couple good images at 1/100 sec using a 300mm and 2x converter. I had more success at around 1/320 sec, but it's a balancing act between ISO and shutter speed

on top of your own technique, here's another thread I started regarding the false focus of long tele lenses:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/general-technical-troubleshooting/229489-...acy-issue.html

so even having good technique is no guarantee your subject matter will be in focus (after relooking at your second photo this may be very applicable - i.e. the camera liked the grass in front and the grainy wood better than the bird)

for what its worth, I here's how I shoot:
TAv mode around f5.6 and 1/250 or higher shutter speed. I also have my ISO limited to 1250 because noise still freaks me out. When I handhold, I place my left hand on my right shoulder and brace the front of the lens across my extended elbow/upper arm. I shoot center point only, AF-S in 3 or 4 shot bursts and refocus via half shutter press after each burst. I ALWAYS use the lens hood to help fight flare.

after a week in Yellowstone and some positive results, I think I'm on the right track, it's just a matter of more practice to get higher keeper rates.