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08-27-2013, 02:38 PM   #31
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Ah ok I get ya.

08-27-2013, 03:59 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by narual Quote
keep your shadow out of the shot
A good tip that doesn't apply to Scottish photos, as it suggests sunshine.
08-27-2013, 08:11 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by richardstringer Quote
Na Horuk,
Yeah that's what i'm thinking, I maybe just need a better lens.
People have mentioned the tripod and remote/timer, Richard.

They're how all your favourite landscape photos would have been done ...
08-28-2013, 01:50 AM   #34
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Yeah i'm gonna get myself a tripod soon, for definate.Is it possible to make a tripod more sturdy by filling the bottom part of it's legs with brick mortar and then sealing it up with silicon sealant? I used to have lighting stands for my dj equipment because I did discos and did that with the my lighting stands. It made them very heavy but it didn't bother me, it made the stand way more sturdy. But with camera tripod i'm just wondering, because they've got telescopic legs. I don't mind if a camera stand is heavy as hell, I see it as a challenge carrying it.

08-28-2013, 04:27 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by richardstringer Quote
Yeah i'm gonna get myself a tripod soon, for definate.Is it possible to make a tripod more sturdy by filling the bottom part of it's legs with brick mortar and then sealing it up with silicon sealant? I used to have lighting stands for my dj equipment because I did discos and did that with the my lighting stands. It made them very heavy but it didn't bother me, it made the stand way more sturdy. But with camera tripod i'm just wondering, because they've got telescopic legs. I don't mind if a camera stand is heavy as hell, I see it as a challenge carrying it.


The legs open up wide enough on a tripod, Richard. Not sure what your lighting rigs were like. But I'm sure the experts on this forum have plenty of tricks they've learned.
08-28-2013, 04:33 AM   #36
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Adding mass to the camera/support system can certainly increase stability, but your idea wouldn't be very practical for field use. With lighting gear you need extra stability just because of the weight of the gear. With a (relatively) small camera the main thing you need is a sufficiently wide base and a reasonably rigid tripod. This becomes more important as you increase the focal length and/or magnification, but for most purposes (including landscapes) you'll be fine as long as you avoid the ultra-cheap and flimsy stuff.
08-28-2013, 04:38 AM   #37
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Time To Step Back And RE-Assess

Hello Richard,
I think you are really overthinking and complicating this. You're trying to reinvent the wheel when it works just fine as is.
No, filling tripod legs with cement won't make your photos sharper. Trying to get ultra sharp, pixel-peepingly, eye-piercing sharpness in a scenic landscape from a hand (or lap, or knee) held camera with a kit lens, a budget zoom with no DOF scale, won't work. Buying an f/2.8 zoom, with (again) no DOF scales will only compound the problem, you're still dealing with many focal lengths and different DOF at each length. Too many variable factors, no single answer. The photos may come out slightly sharper, but still won't have the range of focus you want, if you don't set it exactly exactly right, don't use a tripod and timer/remote, don't follow the tips and techniques that have been posted many times on this (now) three page thread.
Instead of spending $800 USD on a faster zoom (that you intend to use at f/8.0), try this;
Buy a manual focus Pentax (or other quality brand) 28mm f/2.8 lens with 'A' setting. About $100.
Buy a lens hood in the correct thread size (49mm for the Pentax) $5.00.
Buy a good tripod and head, roughly $400 new, $200-$300 used.
Buy a cable or electronic remote shutter release. $20.
Buy a quality circular polarizing filter. $50 for a Marumi.
Find an interesting landscape location, set up the tripod, look at the depth of field scale on the lens when it's set to f/8.0. Turn the focusing ring until the infinity symbol lines up at f/8.0 It will show the exact distance to the closest object in clear focus. Set the aperture to f/8.0. Make sure that the nearest object in the viewfinder is at least that far away. Lock all adjustments on the tripod down tight. Add the CPL to the front of the lens, turn the outer ring until the sky is as dark blus as it will get. Put on a lens hood. Set camera mode to Av, ISO 100, enable self-timer to 2-second delay, hit shutter. Now bracket the shot, 1/3 stop over, 1/3 stop under, using exposure compensation (AV button).
Those will be the clearest, sharpest, most in-focus photos the camera/lens can take. Everything from about 5 feet to infinity will be sharp.
Now, with the lessons you've learned from those photos, you may find it easier to use the kit lens for the same type shots. No, they won't be as ultimately sharp, but you'll know why.
I'm sorry if my post sounds harsh, but you're flailing around with a million ideas and not sticking to the point. Sharp photos take good equipment, time-proven techniques and proper settings. Use what works, what's worked for decades. Simplify. Get one thing right, move on from there.
JMO
Ron

08-28-2013, 05:34 AM   #38
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To me, the better way to add weight to a tripod is to hang sand bags or something from the bottom of it.

Just need a stable base for your camera, be stopped down to the sweet spot, shoot at as low iso as you can while keeping up your shutter speed, shoot multiple exposures and used some type of post processing software for sharpening/getting detail out. The kit lens is decent in the middle of its range.
08-28-2013, 07:37 AM   #39
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I went out and took some pictures with my camera set on a bench so it was completely still, I set the aperteur at f11, focal length to 18mm and used the remote control, took a picture, tried f16, took a picture and tried f22 as well, I used the remote control and still the pictures weren't sharp front to back. I'll upload them soon when I get home to show you. I've tried every single focal length and aperteur and just can't get front to back sharpness. Close ups are fine though.
08-28-2013, 08:14 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by richardstringer Quote
I went out and took some pictures with my camera set on a bench so it was completely still, I set the aperteur at f11, focal length to 18mm and used the remote control, took a picture, tried f16, took a picture and tried f22 as well, I used the remote control and still the pictures weren't sharp front to back. I'll upload them soon when I get home to show you. I've tried every single focal length and aperteur and just can't get front to back sharpness. Close ups are fine though.
Make sure your SR is turned off when the camera is sitting or tripod-mounted (if your remote doesn't disable it already). At f/8 or f/11, the kit lens should be decently sharp, especially in the 25-40mm range. I still wonder if you don't have a bad copy. I like rbefly's suggestion of finding a 28mm manual prime. This will teach you a lot, and get you some nice landscapes.
08-28-2013, 08:22 AM   #41
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I don't see that anyone has mentioned using DOF preview, but our cameras have this very handy feature that allows you to see what will be in focus while turning the focus ring to bring objects into and out of the plane of focus. I don't always use this but it has definitely come in handy once in awhile.
08-28-2013, 08:23 AM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by richardstringer Quote
I went out and took some pictures with my camera set on a bench so it was completely still, I set the aperteur at f11, focal length to 18mm and used the remote control, took a picture, tried f16, took a picture and tried f22 as well, I used the remote control and still the pictures weren't sharp front to back. I'll upload them soon when I get home to show you. I've tried every single focal length and aperteur and just can't get front to back sharpness. Close ups are fine though.
f16 and f22 will be soft because of diffraction. The kit lens is weakest at the extremes. Try it about 28mm and f8 or f11. But certainly look at the DA 35 f2.4 for a significant jump in sharpness.
08-28-2013, 08:34 AM   #43
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Here's the photos :

18mm, 1/8sec, f11, ISO200, camera rested on a bench, remote control used
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/9616459862_e661ced488_o.jpg


18mm, 1/3sec, f22, ISO200, camera rested on a bench, remote control used
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5344/9613197445_463c852498_o.jpg

I focused on a point as far as I could see, right at the end of the long path.

Rondec,
Yeah i'm gonna get myself a 35mm f2.4 for landscapes.

Last edited by richardstringer; 08-28-2013 at 08:48 AM.
08-28-2013, 08:52 AM   #44
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The f11 one seems shaken? (you can see up-down blur if you zoom into the path)
The f22 one seems like.. an f22 photo would. Everything is "in focus" but there is also diffraction.
I think I read the sweet spot of the kit lens is 35mm f8, in terms of resolution.
08-28-2013, 08:55 AM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by Na Horuk Quote
The f11 one seems shaken? (you can see up-down blur if you zoom into the path)
Agree - looks like possible camera movement on #1.
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