[richardstringer]

Hi ya guys, I take quite a few landscape photos, i'm just wondering, where is the best place to focus? I mean for vast, wide open fields, where do I focus? Or say a long walkway covered in overlapping trees so the sky isn't very visible and you have tress on both sides meeting above your head with a path down the middle, where would I focus? I have great trouble on far away landscapes, I always get shots that don't look focused properly. Here's some examples of my poor photography skills, where would I aim focus on these scenes guys?


18mm, 1/200sec, f8, ISO200,




18mm, 1,200sec, f8, ISO400.



I'm using a Pentax K30. When I focus do I set the focus to middle spot focus, turn the camera, focus on 1/3 of the way down, hold the AEL/AFL lock button then move the camera baqck to where it was still holding the AEL/AFL button and take the photo? Or do I just keep the camera pointing straight forward and use selective point focus and select a focus point right about where the 1/3 of the way down point is?

[hks_kansei]

Whenever I do a landscape shot I just focus to infinity.

Generally landscapes are shot in the middle aperture ranges (F8-16 ish) so there's plenty of depth of field to play with.


For the images you seem to be shooting, with a bit of foreground etc, I would recommend reading up on hyperfocal distances.


Hyperfocal is basically an aperture and focus setting that results in everything from X metres in front of you, through to infinity, being focussed.
Each lens is different though, but there are calculators on the web that can help find it.

For example, my Pentax-A 28mm F2.8 hyperfocal setting is F8 and I think 8m from memory?, which results in everything from about 1m through to infinity being focussed. (I might not be remembering the settings correctly, it's actually marked on the lens)

[JohnX]

Using hyperfocal focussing for maximum dof, you focus around one third of the way into the scene @ f8, but there are apps for PC's and smartphones that'll help with actual distance, and plenty of articles on the web with the theory and practice.

Shot one - I'd focus level with the 'Willoughby' sign; shot 2, on a point level with the first swan.

[richardstringer]

When using depth of field calculators, what distance do I set the 'distance to subject' to? And I take it that it doesn't matter what focus setting I use, whether it be multi-point or spot focus just as long as I focus on somehting within the frame that's at the the hyperfocal distance right?

[hks_kansei]

Use manual focus and go by the marked distance scales on the lens.

[richardstringer]

My lens doesn't have a distance scale on it.

[hks_kansei]

Oh, in that case I can only suggest estimating an object that's roughly the distance away that you want, focus on that, and then leave the focus set at that.

I'd still suggest manual focus though, or makign sure the camera is set that it doesn't change the focus with each shot.


Apologies, all of my lenses have scales and I just assumed most of them do. Granted, I only own one lens that's less than 20 years old.

[Na Horuk]

When using depth of field calculators, what distance do I set the 'distance to subject' to?

You should just input a couple different ones and use the one that gives you the most DoF. But your question is a hard one. Here is why:
a) Most modern lenses no longer have DoF scales, not even distance scales. This means that even if you know that you should focus at "2.4m" - you still don't know where on the focus ring that is.
b) Modern DSLRs no longer have a big viewfinder. Tiny viewfinders won't let you see critical focus, even if you use DoF preview and everything.
c) Some lenses have distance scales, but the distance scales are wrong. (I am looking at you, Samyang 14mm f2.8)
d) Some lenses allow focusing past infinity. So if you use manual focus to just spin the focus ring all the way, you can actually manage to have nothing in focus.
e) The environment affects your lens. If its hot, the focusing might behave differently than if its cold, because materials contract and expand.
f) Hyperfocal focusing and zone focusing are not perfectly reliable on modern DSLRs. You see, hyperfocal is supposed to give you "acceptable" sharpness from near to infinity, but I don't always find the results to be "acceptable." So you need to do some tests
g) If you are using a zoom lens, remember that zooming can affect your focus. Some lenses are parfocal (which means the focus stays on the same distance, even if you move the zoom ring), some arent. There is a list (a thread on this forum), but just remember that with some zoom lenses, you can zoom in and focus, then zoom out and it will be perfect. With other lenses, if you zoom, you need to re-focus.

Here are other things to keep in mind
1 The wider the angle, the more DoF you get. I'm sure there are complicated physics behind this. The problem is, if the angle is very wide, you won't see much detail in very far away things anyway, because they will seem tiny tiny
2 The narrower the aperture, the more DoF you get. But be careful, because at some point diffraction sets in, and you lose sharpness/IQ. So you usually don't want to go above f14 (some say even f8 is the limit). But you should test this for yourself to get a better feel. Its not always the same aperture that limits your gear. And sometimes you just have to go above f16, even up to f22. Just be ready for it.
3 You need to sharpen your photo in post processing. Sometimes a lot. This is not because the gear is bad, but because everyone else is doing it, so if you dont do it, your photos look blurry in comparison.
4 Some lenses are better for landscape photos than other lenses. Sharpness at infinity, angle of view, CA and flaring.. there are many characteristics that affect the final photo. You can try getting a lens that is more specialized for landscapes. (the kit lens is not bad, but its a general lens, it doesn't excel at anything)

So you can try using manual focus and set focus just underneath infinity. Or focus on an object that you want to have in focus in the final photo. For example, a photo can have huge DoF, but if a person in it is Out of focus, it probably won't be a great photo. So focus on the person. Or sign, or animal, or natural object. Often, this is more important than whether or not the DoF extends to infinity.

Also, for landscapes, you should use a tripod, 2 sec timer, lens hood, and low ISO. These things will improve the photo a lot. Tripod keeps the camera stable. 2 sec timer disables SR (because you are on tripod anyway) and uses mirror lockup, so there are less vibrations due to mirror action. Low ISO means less noise and more detail. Lens hood is generally a good idea, as it can improve contrast, prevent flaring, etc. And don't be afraid of using DoF preview or the digital zoom focus assist, even focus peaking.

Edit: I hope some of the really good landscape photographers from this forum chime in, I would love to know any more tips and tricks to this

[richardstringer]

I virtually always shoot at f8 or sometimes f1 unless I have a specific reason for wanting an object in focus and everything else out of focus. When i'm taking landscape photos, normally I just focus on the horizon, or the furthest thing way from my shooting position. Although when I had a Nikon D5100 I used aut0 multi-point focus where the camera selected a few points to focus on, I remember seeing a few red dots in the viewfinder when using multi-point focus, wheras in spot focus there's only one red dot.

[Rondec]

Well, the only thing I can say is that I prefer if there is something specific in the foreground that you focus on. A group of rocks, pebbles in a road, a tree -- whatever will make the photo more interesting. It is really more about a good composition than anything else.

I like to select which auto focus point I am using -- this eliminates quite a bit of the pointing the camera at the ground and then recomposing bit.

[richardstringer]

Yes but a nicely composed photo is rubbish if it's out of focus.

[mattt]

Having shot the 15mm and viewed Rondec's 15mm shots in the controlled my mind thread I think you'll find the benefit of a W/A lens is the ability to capture foreground interest while the back ground remains in focus.

Hit flickr - search Sigma 10-20, DA 15mm f4.0, DA 12-24mm f4.0, DA 14mm f2.8.... So many others...

You will find lots of rubbish, but the ones that jump out will almost always have a foreground interest.

PS infinity on much of that wide angle glass is just beyond 5 feet...

[richardstringer]

I took a photo earlier today, I tried to get the bridge and buildings in the background sharp as well but haven't succeeded. When I zoom in a little you can see that they're blur or rather lacking focus.

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5472/9605121233_9cd2338a2a_o.jpg

I took it with the settings :
18mm, f8, 1,100sec, ISO200, spot focus, focus locked on the bridge.

[baro-nite]

When I zoom in a little you can see that they're blur or rather lacking focus.

Sharpness in photography isn't an absolute; it depends on viewing conditions. Zoom in far enough and any photo becomes blurry. Unless you're planning to make a poster-size print, your photo is reasonably sharp. The left and right edges do appear less sharp than the rest, however. Given that these areas show objects in the middle distance, whereas farther away and closer are reasonably sharp, could be your copy of this lens is a little off. Is this the DA 18-55? Did you use a tripod? Is shake reduction on?

[rbefly]

Hello Richard,
It looks like very slight camera shake to me, my guess is you weren't using a tripod? If that's the case, try the same shot at f/11, ISO 100, focus 1/3rd of the distance from your camera position (close focus) to the furthest building visible. Camera tripod-mounted, everything locked down tight, 2 second delay.
I'd also suggest bracketing 1/3 stop over, 1/3 under and a few extras at the recommended exposure. Even the slight vibration of a large vehicle (bus or truck) driving near the camera position can shake the tripod.
Any better?
If you were using a tripod for the most recent shot, your lens/camera may need focus adjustment.
JMO
Ron