[disco_owner]

Often I read here on PF that someone is using an 11 mm Extension tube or 44 mm extension tube, I'm really not sure how much extension I need for my macros , this morning I threw on my smallest extension tube behind the Tamron SP 90 and went out to the backyard to grab some insect shots. I've just recently bought a PT04 flash trigger and use the AF360 off camera for macro lighting. when triggering the Flash off camera with a PT04 trigger I loose the PTTL functionality and having to set the aperture manually and test the flash power and set the Iso manually , so my question to the more seasoned macro shooters Is , how do you guys get focus when stopped down to lets say F16, there is bugger all light coming through the lens and it's hard to focus , I tired to open up and get focus and then stop down for a shot , but slightest movement puts the subject out of focus.

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[elliott]

The best option would be to get some extension tubes that have the aperture linkage in them. You won't have P-TTL or any automatic metering modes, but you will have the ability to focus with the aperture open.

If you wouldn't mind having extension tubes in larger increments, you could get some cheap 2x converters and remove the glass, which is what I did. You won't find them shorter than about 25mm, but you could find them with A contacts, allowing P-TTL and automatic metering.

[Not a Number]

A tripod and a focus rail helps but not with moving subjects. Otherwise if you don't have "auto" tubes as suggested above just "spray and pray" - take dozens of photos and hope one or two are in focus and composed nicely. Memory cards are cheap.

[disco_owner]

The best option would be to get some extension tubes that have the aperture linkage in them. You won't have P-TTL or any automatic metering modes, but you will have the ability to focus with the aperture open.

If you wouldn't mind having extension tubes in larger increments, you could get some cheap 2x converters and remove the glass, which is what I did. You won't find them shorter than about 25mm, but you could find them with A contacts, allowing P-TTL and automatic metering.

I don't Mind , as long as I can see the image with good lighting and be able to get lock on focus , is there any recommendation on which TC to get ?

A tripod and a focus rail helps but not with moving subjects. Otherwise if you don't have "auto" tubes as suggested above just "spray and pray" - take dozens of photos and hope one or two are in focus and composed nicely. Memory cards are cheap.

ok here is a Term I have not heard before , interesting concept , "Spray and Pray" , sounds like a war situation where you engage the enemy with Unlimited amo.

not a Bad option but if the flash duty cycle times are crap I can't afford to spray and pray , I use a PT04 Flash trigger. I need to lock on focus and fire . and wait ....

[Digitalis]

I use the Modelling Lights on the Pentax AF160FC ringflash for focus assistance when my viewfinder gets too dim - they are very bright.

[disco_owner]

seeing I haven't got an AF160 ring flash, I'm thinking of devising something to help illuminate the subject. It's a little bit of Trial and error at this stage, my be a Led light mounted close to the Lens directed towards the Subject. it gets rather Dim when stopping down.

[wsteffey]

You might want to try one of the Raynox front mount macro lenses. I have had a lot of fun with my 150 (the 250 is just too much outside in the breeze). They mount on the front of the lens so return to normal use is much easier than a ring. This forum has a section on the Raynox you might want to search for.

[p38arover]

Khos, do you want to borrow my Sunpak Auto DX8R ring flash?

And I have an excellent Takumar 100mm f4 macro lens I'm no longer using. You might remember it. I'm sure I can do you a good deal on it.

[baro-nite]

how do you guys get focus when stopped down to lets say F16

Have you tried Live View?

As to how much extension, it's a function of focal length. The longer the FL, the more extension you'll need to achieve a given increase in magnification. Your lens already gets you to 1:1 on its own; you'd need a lot of extension to significantly increase this.

[disco_owner]

Khos, do you want to borrow my Sunpak Auto DX8R ring flash?

And I have an excellent Takumar 100mm f4 macro lens I'm no longer using. You might remember it. I'm sure I can do you a good deal on it.

Thanks for the offer on the ring flash ron , I need a permanent set up when I use my extn tubes , i've got all the bits that I need now to set up for lighting except how to get good lighting on subject to help focus when I stop down with extn tubes , I do remember the 100 macro lens well ;-) but recently bought a Tamron SP 90 Macro from one of the forum members on here.

[disco_owner]

Have you tried Live View?

As to how much extension, it's a function of focal length. The longer the FL, the more extension you'll need to achieve a given increase in magnification. Your lens already gets you to 1:1 on its own; you'd need a lot of extension to significantly increase this.

Yes , I have tried using Liveview , but unfortunately this is what happens when I hit Liveview

[baro-nite]

Set "Use aperture ring" to "permitted".

[Digitalis]

I'm thinking of devising something to help illuminate the subject.

Manfrotto make hot shoe mountable LED Lighting panels.

[Paleo Pete]

If you're already using a macro lens, I'd think extension tubes are overkill.

Otherwise, I've been using extension tubes for a couple of years and here's what I've found out.

Sounds like you're using the cheap after market tubes without the aperture stop down arm, that causes trouble. You have to open up the aperture to focus, then close it again to shoot, and unless you're shooting stationary subjects with a tripod, this is iffy. My M42 rig works this way, but fortunately it has a secondary aperture ring. One ring sets the desired aperture stop, the other actually changes the aperture size. I can focus wide open, try to stay still and quickly close down the secondary ring and shoot, it works but it's iffy.

For K mount lenses, extension tubes are available, and you can also get teleconverters and remove the glass. I have 2 right now, for 45mm total, and another I'm thinking about removing the glass, still need to try it a few more times and be sure I just can't get acceptable shots with it as a TC. But those have the aperture arm so the camera can stop down properly. I use them mostly with a 50mm lens, which means my working distance is about 3 inches at most, so I don't get many insects with it. With a 135mm it works, but I'm not crazy about my K mount 135mm so I don't use it often. The 135mm gives me a little over a foot working distance, better for insects.

For the M42 rig I have almost a foot of extension tubes, it can get crazy, but I normally use a 135mm l3ens and around 60mm of extension tubes. Good magnification and about a foot or so working distance, many insects will let me get that close, lizards sometimes, and not too hard to hold steady and get hand held shots.

I use a hot shoe flash, and with the 50mm I sometimes use a folded envelope to reflect the flash down onto the subject, since it tends to shoot over and past it. In good daylight I shoot without flash. Extension tubes don't seem to reduce light transmission the same way teleconverters do.

OK so how does all this work?

M 50mm f1.7 with 45mm extension tubes, flash on 1/4 power, fly a little over 1/4 inch long, taken at f11



Lentar 135mm M42 at f11 in natural sunlight with 58mm extension tubes



And my old favorite macro rig, a 50mm lens with the objective lens from a pair of junk binoculars attached to it, natural daylight, enough light to shoot 1/750 shutter speed at f11



All these are hand held, the only bracing I have is by resting my hand on the ground or my elbow on my knee and trying to hold it steady. Sometimes I attach a mini tripod and use it as a handle for help with bracing, most of the time if I'm close to the ground I just rest my hand on the ground and use a thumb or finger to brace the lens, and I move closer or further away to focus rather than fooling with the focusing ring. It only take a tiny fraction of an inch to be in or out of focus...

Oh yeah...remember the 3 P's...

Practice

Practice

Practice

[elliott]

I don't Mind , as long as I can see the image with good lighting and be able to get lock on focus , is there any recommendation on which TC to get ?

I just used whatever was cheap or free, all of mine were the 4 element 2X designs that are optically worthless. I was able to disassemble most of them and remove the glass easily, but one I had to use a screwdriver and hammer to break the glass.