[gryhnd]

I'm being hired to shoot some landscapes (cranberry bogs) and groups of people attending a small cranberry festival....from a helicopter! I've never been in a copter let alone shot from one!

I'm getting a quick 5 minute flight this weekend that I hope to use as a primer (if it's the same copter that is, TBD), with the actual photographic flight about two weeks from now of an hour duration. This is likely to be a working copter for the bogs (IOW, not a cushy commercial flight type).

I'm starting a crash course in tips and tricks (for example) but want to ask my fellow Pentaxians for their advise.

Limitations: I don't have a choice of flight time. It's going to start about 10am here in Massachusetts, so I don't get the golden hours. The copter also doesn't remove its doors (insurance reasons I gather) but apparently has a window that slides open and is used to shoot through. I hope to see more of this setup this weekend.

Gear at my disposal:

Bodies:

• K5 IIs
• K-x

Lenses:

• Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 APO EX DG HSM OS FLD
• Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 EX DC HSM
• Sigma 50mm f1.4 EX DG HSM
• Tamron 70-300 f4.0-5.6 (IQ obviously inferior to the Sigma 70-200, but it has more reach of course)
• Bower 8mm f3.5 fully manual fisheye

If you've shot from a 'copter before, what sort of tips, and I don't mean strictly camera settings, do you have? Anything you would have done differently? I hear lens swapping can be tricky given the confines and the environment. Favorite lenses used?

Should I turn off the camera's SR to avoid damage from vibration? Would using the IS built into the Sigma 70-200 confer any advantage in this scenario over the camera's own? If so, which would you suggest: mode 1 or mode 2?

Any other advise please send my way!

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Last edited by gryhnd; 10-08-2013 at 06:38 AM. Reason: typos

[CRPhoto]

I've ben shooting aerials for 7 years now, mostly with light aircraft ( Cessna 172, 206) but have heli rides a couple of times.
I normally shot with 2 cameras, K-5 and K-5 IIs. On the first one I use a wide angle (16-50 or 10-20), on the IIs I use the 60-250 (and before that the 70-200 2.8). I would say that you take the 70-200 in the IIs and the 17-50 on the K-x.
If the day is nice and bright I normally use a Cir Polarizer and set the camera to TAv, with a fast shutter (1/400 or more), f5.6, and AutoIso from 80-400. Helicopters tend to vibrate so make sure not to support the camera on any helicopter part. If door are closed you will have no problems with the rotor downwash, but the small windows might be uncomfortable. Make sure batteries are fully charged and memory cards are clean and formated.
My Sigma is the non-OS so I always use Pentax SR and has worked fine.

[CRPhoto]

Here's my website: Fotos Aereas Costa Rica - Aerial Photography Costa Rica also on facebook as FotosAereasCR

[Heie]

I will be more than happy to assist, as I've done a few chopper rides in the military, but before I dive too deeply into the advice, some critical information will help guide that advice: what type of helicopter and will doors be open? Not necessarily looking for the model of the aircraft, but it will make a difference if you are in a tiny two seater (i.e. private helicopter) or can walk around (i.e. military chinook). And then see if the doors will be open while you fly as that will help determine a few other things.

Jealous

-Heie

[gryhnd]

Thanks guys!

Heie - if you see above, I don't know what kind of copter yet. Doors aren't coming off, that is known. I doubt it's going to be a large copter as these are generally the sort they use to service the bogs. Hoping to find out more soon and hope the quick flight this weekend is the same copter.

[gofour3]

A polarizer to cut the reflections from the glass/plastic windows.

Phil.

[gifthorse]

Avoid shooting through the plastic the windows are made of if you can. They are made of a relatively soft plastic and will have fine crazing and scratches that might show when the light hits at a certain angle. (You'll be circling so the sun will hit that angle at some point. Usually just as you have the perfect shot framed. As CRPhoto said, don't let the lens touch the helo while shooting. Don't rest/brace your arm or hand on the helo while shooting. This isn't because the lens/camera could be damaged but because the vibrations will be transmitted to the camera, causing camera shake. Use your normal way of holding the camera, don't rest the camera/lens on the helo and your body will absorb the vibration. It won't be severe, more like the vibration of a washing machine on the spin cycle. Your session will be similar to sitting on a washing machine while traveling down the road on a truck. You'll be moving relative to your subject while vibrating slightly. Back in the day, I used a normal prime and a long lens when flying. With two bodies, I'd probably opt for the 17-50 and the 70-300 so that I wouldn't have to risk dropping a lens while swapping. You probably won't get very close to the groups of people so the long lens will give you some reach. Since you be shooting down, the fisheye will cause the horizon to seriously distort. You'll be shooting at water so a polarizer will help. Have fun.

Back in the day....

[Arjay Bee]

Did a heli photo trip earlier this year. Bell something with five seats as in the pic below. My wife sat in the front left and I had the rear bench to myself and was able to slide or lean from one side of craft to other but mostly shot out the left side window where a window slid back- no issues there. Had my bag with a range of lenses but was told the bag had to go in the boot so I quickly grabbed the zeni 16 out and stuck it in my jacket pocket. The lens on the camera was the K 45 - 150. Other choices ended up staying in the bag.

Vibration was an issue but you quickly learn to do as above - don't let elbows or shoulders touch the airframe. You are sitting so be sure to wedge the changed out lens or unused camera someplace so it doesn't move about with the motion of the aircraft. In many respects you will be then applying techniques that you would use from any high point looking down.

Take a few Ginger tablets an hour or so before the flight to settle the stomach.







Note that the window opened sort of at elbow height so was a bit awkward for using the optical view finder.

[Heie]

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you - in the meantime you've gotten some great advice

Agree entirely with the CPL, however play with it as soon as you get in the bird to see if it works. I learned that that isn't always the case as it can create some really funky banding. Here's what I mean:



That was through the window of a Chinook (the double-bladed massive cargo helicopter), and my guess is because the bullet proof glass was so thick, but something to be aware of.

Like everyone said, don't rest your body or the camera on anything as it will enhance the vibration. Your body will absorb most of it, but if you press your lens hood (definitely make sure you bring all your lens hoods!) against the glass, you will localize the vibration right to the camera itself. Speaking of vibration, use the fastest shutter speeds you can. I don't know about the K-x, but the K-5 IIs has a remarkable capability of recovering shadows and underexposure, so if you are on the edge of a fast enough shutter speed to reduce blur, I would up the shutter speed a bit, purposefully underexposing. You can easily recover 2 stops in post, and I've gone as far as 4-5 stops (took a bit of work though). Also, even if you have enough shutter speed, underexpose slightly anyway when you are including some of the sky in your shots. This way you don't blow out the sky/clouds. Shadows are far easier to lift than to bring down highlights in post.

The point about the configuration of the chopper was merely this: how would it affect the accessibility of your gear. If you have the entire back seat to yourself, then bring your camera bag. If not, I would recommend bringing your two primary lenses (17-50 and 70-300), and then the fisheye in your pocket. I would recommend against the 70-200 for two reasons. First is size - it's a very cumbersome lens despite what may possibly be very cramped shooting. Also, since you are going to maximize DOF, you should be shooting between f/5.6-f/9. What this means is that the difference between the two won't be all that much - I promise your clients won't notice it. Regardless, my money is on you will use your 17-50 the most, and were I in your shoes, the 70-300 would be chosen over the 70-200.

Also, since you will be sitting, I would use both camera straps (assuming you have the default straps that came with the cameras) and place them around your neck, allowing them to rest in your lap.

Keep SR on at all times, and don't forget the water. It will help lower your blood pressure and not be so ill-affected should flying/heights be an issue for you.

Also, if you have access to one, bring a GoPro or something of the likes - don't just view it as another paid gig - have some fun with it and show off to your friends and family flying around in a helicopter. Not too many get to do it

-Heie

[gryhnd]

Thanks for the great tips guys! All your shots are inspiring.

I was thinking about the compact size of the 70-300 as well. IQ isn't the same (and it tends to some bad purple CA wider open), but stopped down it will probably be fine. I'll shoot with it this weekend when I take the quick 5' flight and see how things look.

Yup, I have a CPL in hand that fits the 17-50 and 70-200 (77mm). Pretty sure I have one for the 70-300 as well, just have to dig for it. If not, I'll bring one in ASAP.

My one condition for agreeing to this flight was that I would not have to shoot through plexiglass. So I am told that a portion of the window slides open since the doors won't be coming off. Should be OK there.

Funny your comment about the hoods, Heie. Articles I've read suggest no hoods, mostly because if they go out the copter...well...they're goners Maybe shooting through the window opening will mitigate some of that possibility in comparison to hanging out the door :-)

Keep the advice coming!

[gofour3]

Here’s a shot from a helicopter over Antarctica’s Ross Sea, through a Plexiglas window using a polarizer. (We took off and landed on the back of the ship in the picture.)

The shot was taken with a KX using a K50/1.4 and Fomapan B&W slide film. (@160 ISO)



Phil.

[gryhnd]

While looking for my 62mm CP (which I found!) I also came across a lens I haven't used in quite some time: Tamron 18-200 f3.5-6.3

Should I bother with it?

[Heie]

While looking for my 62mm CP (which I found!) I also came across a lens I haven't used in quite some time: Tamron 18-200 f3.5-6.3

Should I bother with it?

No - you have two cameras that both will cover that with superior glass, 17-50 + 70-200/300 (whichever zoom you choose).

-Heie

[gryhnd]

definitely make sure you bring all your lens hoods!

Wait, I won't be able to use the hoods because they will interfere with adjusting the CP filters.

[CRPhoto]

Wait, I won't be able to use the hoods because they will interfere with adjusting the CP filters.

That's the great thing about Pentax hoods! I used to have that problem with my Sigma but now I use the 60-250 and I thank Pentax for such little and ingenious innovation.