How to use your DSLR in Cold Weather & Shooting the Northern Lights

**csa** · 10-12-2015, 08:14 AM

Originally posted by Dabola

This reminds me on similar recommendations; If you're going to exercise then use Addidas. The best brand.... As an inhabitant of the polar part of Norway I have to give you a couple of comments. The optimal boots for cold winter environments is not a question of brand but first of all materials! For a short walk alongside roads in the northern Scandinavia during mid winter (February-March) you can use whatever you want. But if you want to get into the nature – that means more than one meter off public roads - then carry boots and textiles that can handle the snow! Minus 10 or minus 30 is not that much different.
All the Sorels models on the web page above have many seams. If you want to get cold then this is perfect. In the whole polar part of the planet it's basic; boots with as few seams as possible! They are main doors for humidity. Seams only on the heal. All sorels models are made of synthetic fibers. Gore-Tex are the most common. All of them are much thinner than what has been common during the last hundreds of years; leather skin boots! Where the skin are at least 1,2 mm thick. All the synthetic materials are okay at the beginning. When it is minus 10-20-30 you have no choice; you'll have to start moving – to avoid freezing. Then it's just a question of minutes before your foots start sweating. Natural leather breath much better then all the synthetic fibers. Especially after 1-2 seasons. (We could have made a similar discussion for optimal materials for the sole onto the boots, but let's drop it).

At the picture below you can see some simple boots made by synthetic fibers (yellow) and my good old (25 years old) leather boots. For use during winter time when it's snow and cold. These one are for skiing. Leather boots that can handle low temperatures.

Look at the 2nd picture. Gaiters are “a must” if you're planning to get more than 1 meter out of public roads. To avoid snow into your boots. It also helps you keep warm.

Regarding your camera in polar environments; Keep your camera and lenses cold all the time. Store your batteries close to your body. If you're out in the snow then store your lenses into plastic boxes (like recomm. in my post no8 here). One of the main source of ice on your camera is your own breathing. If you're gonna handle your camera more than for a single picture then put it into a thin plastic bag and let only the tip of your lens stick out.

I'm sure cold affects each individual differently, and some tolerate it better than others. Mine were not used for short walks, rather all day hunting, many times. Also for shoveling/plowing snow.
I've used my Sorels for about 25-30 years now, in temps to -40F. I had many pairs of leather hunting boots, and nearly froze my feet off! Seams or not, with the inner "boot", and a good sock, the Sorels work for me.

Duplo · 10-15-2015, 01:28 PM - **1 Like**

Excellent tips and very well written article.
Having lived in the arctics for 10 years, most things winter becomes second nature.

In terms of clothing, do what the inuits do in Northern Greenland.
Hunting trips on dogsleds for weeks in the deep of winter in temperatures below -40C and sleeping in tents is quite common.
I have travelled with them on several trips and it works, but you do look unusual

Personally i prefer the arctic expedition boots from sorell when you are out for multiple days in temperatures below -30C, but go far enough north and the locals swear by their lamb and mosk ox wool linned seal skin boots.

Ohh and this is what you look like in the morning, when you realise it is -32C just outside of your sleeping bag

**Pål Jensen** · 10-21-2015, 08:55 AM - **4 Likes**

My solution is to shoot all Auroras close to the car

[First image: Pentax K-3. DA* 16-50/2.8
Second image: Pentax LX. FA 31/1.8 Limited. Ektachrome 100VS at 200ISO]

Nitrogliserin · 10-21-2015, 10:20 AM

@Duplo Thanks! I hope one day I'll visit Greenland.

@Pål Jensen Great pix! Is last pic from Lyngenfjord?

maltfalc · 10-21-2015, 10:43 AM

Originally posted by LaurenOE

The other thing is to prevent thermal "shock" I would place my cameras in their bags outside before I was to shoot, so the cameras could cool down without forming ice.

that's a great way to get condensation inside your camera. you want to flush out as much warm moist air as possible while the camera's still warm, not trap it in the bag while the camera cools down.

**Pål Jensen** · 10-21-2015, 12:10 PM

Originally posted by Nitrogliserin

@Pål Jensen Great pix! Is last pic from Lyngenfjord?

No. Raftsundet.

mee · 10-21-2015, 06:52 PM

Gorgeous photos in this thread.

I don't live in a location that gets to -30C ..more around -3C in the winter hehe. Even so, when I take it out of the cold, I stuff my camera in a large freezer bag with a clipped seal and one of these Silica Gel tins (Pelican Silica Gel 1500-500-000 B&H Photo Video) and place it sealed in my refrigerator. My reasoning is this slowly pulls the camera out of freezing temperature into above freezing temp. After that I set it out of vent or sunlight range still sealed for several hours, ensuring I see no water/condensation on the outside of the camera before I open ANYTHING on it (card door, lens, battery bay).

Not sure if that is the ideal practice.. but I haven't lost a camera yet.. And I've had thin layers of ice build up on it.

Nitrogliserin · 10-26-2015, 05:24 AM

Originally posted by mee

Gorgeous photos in this thread.

I don't live in a location that gets to -30C ..more around -3C in the winter hehe. Even so, when I take it out of the cold, I stuff my camera in a large freezer bag with a clipped seal and one of these Silica Gel tins (Pelican Silica Gel 1500-500-000 B&H Photo Video) and place it sealed in my refrigerator. My reasoning is this slowly pulls the camera out of freezing temperature into above freezing temp. After that I set it out of vent or sunlight range still sealed for several hours, ensuring I see no water/condensation on the outside of the camera before I open ANYTHING on it (card door, lens, battery bay).

Not sure if that is the ideal practice.. but I haven't lost a camera yet.. And I've had thin layers of ice build up on it.

From my experience I can tell that till below -5-7C it's OK to use your camera without any extra precautions. Unless you jump from outside into an indoor sauna environment.

Below -10 and less are serious cold environment not just for your DSLR but yourself too.

Maksim · 11-11-2015, 12:13 AM

Originally posted by Nitrogliserin

Hello,

I wrote an article about surviving your DSLR in extreme cold weather and shooting the Northern Lights. I've been in Sweden last February and would like to share my experience with you.

How to Use Your DSLR in Cold Weather & Shooting the Northern Lights - Nitrogliserin.NET | Freelance Photographer | Graphic & Web Designer

Thank you,

Fantastic, bookmarked it.

Will be using it when I visit northern russia soon. =)

Nitrogliserin · 11-13-2015, 08:53 AM

Originally posted by Maksim

Fantastic, bookmarked it.

Will be using it when I visit northern russia soon. =)

Thank you Maksim,

I have experience in Norway, Sweden and Iceland but absolutely no idea about Russia. I heard that you can see -50C in some part of Northern Russia. Please be extra cautious.

bertwert · 11-13-2015, 08:59 AM

Since this thread has useful tips, I'll add my own:

Only good if you're Canadian. I've found this useful on many occasions.
(Photo is a link and the photo also updates itself hourly with the current forecast for the night)

Nitrogliserin · 11-26-2015, 01:08 AM

AT Frosted Lens | AT Frosted Lens

I didn't try this yet but it looks promising, especially for making long time lapses. One thing for sure that it can save battery life.

10-21-2015, 08:55 AM - 4 Likes	#33
Pål Jensen Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Norway Photos: Albums Posts: 4,371	My solution is to shoot all Auroras close to the car [First image: Pentax K-3. DA* 16-50/2.8 Second image: Pentax LX. FA 31/1.8 Limited. Ektachrome 100VS at 200ISO] Last edited by Pål Jensen; 10-21-2015 at 12:41 PM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
How to you use your Pentax Q? Is the 02 lens comparable to a mid-range P&S?	americanclassic	Pentax Q	23	04-27-2013 08:51 AM
Any K-01 owners use it to replace your DSLR?	alstauffer	Pentax K-01	17	04-22-2013 07:03 AM
shooting the northern lights	Paul Brown	Visitors' Center	8	04-01-2013 02:22 PM
Mode settings&manual lenses in cold weather	BillM	Pentax DSLR Discussion	4	01-05-2010 12:59 PM
Cold Weather Shooting	shiestmiester	Pentax DSLR Discussion	2	10-02-2009 10:52 AM

10-12-2015, 08:14 AM	#31
csa Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Montana mountains Posts: 10,133	Originally posted by Dabola This reminds me on similar recommendations; If you're going to exercise then use Addidas. The best brand.... As an inhabitant of the polar part of Norway I have to give you a couple of comments. The optimal boots for cold winter environments is not a question of brand but first of all materials! For a short walk alongside roads in the northern Scandinavia during mid winter (February-March) you can use whatever you want. But if you want to get into the nature – that means more than one meter off public roads - then carry boots and textiles that can handle the snow! Minus 10 or minus 30 is not that much different. All the Sorels models on the web page above have many seams. If you want to get cold then this is perfect. In the whole polar part of the planet it's basic; boots with as few seams as possible! They are main doors for humidity. Seams only on the heal. All sorels models are made of synthetic fibers. Gore-Tex are the most common. All of them are much thinner than what has been common during the last hundreds of years; leather skin boots! Where the skin are at least 1,2 mm thick. All the synthetic materials are okay at the beginning. When it is minus 10-20-30 you have no choice; you'll have to start moving – to avoid freezing. Then it's just a question of minutes before your foots start sweating. Natural leather breath much better then all the synthetic fibers. Especially after 1-2 seasons. (We could have made a similar discussion for optimal materials for the sole onto the boots, but let's drop it). At the picture below you can see some simple boots made by synthetic fibers (yellow) and my good old (25 years old) leather boots. For use during winter time when it's snow and cold. These one are for skiing. Leather boots that can handle low temperatures. Look at the 2nd picture. Gaiters are “a must” if you're planning to get more than 1 meter out of public roads. To avoid snow into your boots. It also helps you keep warm. Regarding your camera in polar environments; Keep your camera and lenses cold all the time. Store your batteries close to your body. If you're out in the snow then store your lenses into plastic boxes (like recomm. in my post no8 here). One of the main source of ice on your camera is your own breathing. If you're gonna handle your camera more than for a single picture then put it into a thin plastic bag and let only the tip of your lens stick out. I'm sure cold affects each individual differently, and some tolerate it better than others. Mine were not used for short walks, rather all day hunting, many times. Also for shoveling/plowing snow. I've used my Sorels for about 25-30 years now, in temps to -40F. I had many pairs of leather hunting boots, and nearly froze my feet off! Seams or not, with the inner "boot", and a good sock, the Sorels work for me.

10-15-2015, 01:28 PM - 1 Like	#32
Duplo Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Copenhagen Photos: Gallery Posts: 924	Excellent tips and very well written article. Having lived in the arctics for 10 years, most things winter becomes second nature. In terms of clothing, do what the inuits do in Northern Greenland. Hunting trips on dogsleds for weeks in the deep of winter in temperatures below -40C and sleeping in tents is quite common. I have travelled with them on several trips and it works, but you do look unusual Personally i prefer the arctic expedition boots from sorell when you are out for multiple days in temperatures below -30C, but go far enough north and the locals swear by their lamb and mosk ox wool linned seal skin boots. Ohh and this is what you look like in the morning, when you realise it is -32C just outside of your sleeping bag

10-21-2015, 10:20 AM	#34
Nitrogliserin Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Turkey Posts: 246 Original Poster	@Duplo Thanks! I hope one day I'll visit Greenland. @Pål Jensen Great pix! Is last pic from Lyngenfjord?

10-21-2015, 10:43 AM	#35
maltfalc Veteran Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Winnipeg Photos: Albums Posts: 396	Originally posted by LaurenOE The other thing is to prevent thermal "shock" I would place my cameras in their bags outside before I was to shoot, so the cameras could cool down without forming ice. that's a great way to get condensation inside your camera. you want to flush out as much warm moist air as possible while the camera's still warm, not trap it in the bag while the camera cools down.

10-21-2015, 12:10 PM	#36
Pål Jensen Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Norway Photos: Albums Posts: 4,371	Originally posted by Nitrogliserin @Pål Jensen Great pix! Is last pic from Lyngenfjord? No. Raftsundet.

10-21-2015, 06:52 PM	#37
mee Veteran Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 7,403	Gorgeous photos in this thread. I don't live in a location that gets to -30C ..more around -3C in the winter hehe. Even so, when I take it out of the cold, I stuff my camera in a large freezer bag with a clipped seal and one of these Silica Gel tins (Pelican Silica Gel 1500-500-000 B&H Photo Video) and place it sealed in my refrigerator. My reasoning is this slowly pulls the camera out of freezing temperature into above freezing temp. After that I set it out of vent or sunlight range still sealed for several hours, ensuring I see no water/condensation on the outside of the camera before I open ANYTHING on it (card door, lens, battery bay). Not sure if that is the ideal practice.. but I haven't lost a camera yet.. And I've had thin layers of ice build up on it.

10-26-2015, 05:24 AM	#38
Nitrogliserin Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Turkey Posts: 246 Original Poster	Originally posted by mee Gorgeous photos in this thread. I don't live in a location that gets to -30C ..more around -3C in the winter hehe. Even so, when I take it out of the cold, I stuff my camera in a large freezer bag with a clipped seal and one of these Silica Gel tins (Pelican Silica Gel 1500-500-000 B&H Photo Video) and place it sealed in my refrigerator. My reasoning is this slowly pulls the camera out of freezing temperature into above freezing temp. After that I set it out of vent or sunlight range still sealed for several hours, ensuring I see no water/condensation on the outside of the camera before I open ANYTHING on it (card door, lens, battery bay). Not sure if that is the ideal practice.. but I haven't lost a camera yet.. And I've had thin layers of ice build up on it. From my experience I can tell that till below -5-7C it's OK to use your camera without any extra precautions. Unless you jump from outside into an indoor sauna environment. Below -10 and less are serious cold environment not just for your DSLR but yourself too.

11-11-2015, 12:13 AM	#39
Maksim Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2015 Posts: 80	Originally posted by Nitrogliserin Hello, I wrote an article about surviving your DSLR in extreme cold weather and shooting the Northern Lights. I've been in Sweden last February and would like to share my experience with you. How to Use Your DSLR in Cold Weather & Shooting the Northern Lights - Nitrogliserin.NET \| Freelance Photographer \| Graphic & Web Designer Thank you, Fantastic, bookmarked it. Will be using it when I visit northern russia soon. =)

11-13-2015, 08:53 AM	#40
Nitrogliserin Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Turkey Posts: 246 Original Poster	Originally posted by Maksim Fantastic, bookmarked it. Will be using it when I visit northern russia soon. =) Thank you Maksim, I have experience in Norway, Sweden and Iceland but absolutely no idea about Russia. I heard that you can see -50C in some part of Northern Russia. Please be extra cautious.

11-13-2015, 08:59 AM	#41
bertwert Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Golden, BC Posts: 15,172	Since this thread has useful tips, I'll add my own: Only good if you're Canadian. I've found this useful on many occasions. (Photo is a link and the photo also updates itself hourly with the current forecast for the night)

11-26-2015, 01:08 AM	#42
Nitrogliserin Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Turkey Posts: 246 Original Poster	AT Frosted Lens \| AT Frosted Lens I didn't try this yet but it looks promising, especially for making long time lapses. One thing for sure that it can save battery life.