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04-02-2008, 12:13 PM   #1
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Exposure for Panos

I know that there is the AE lock on the K10D, does that last for just one shot? If so, how do I go about locking that for multiple shots when doing panos?

04-02-2008, 12:40 PM   #2
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I believe it does only last for one shot.

Your best bet for locking the exposure for multiple shots is to go into M-Mode and use the green button to set the exposure you want for the whole panorama. For panoramas I often use P-Mode to observe the metering (or Shutter or Aperture priority if I want to fix myself into one of those) and then fix on what appears to be an average for the M-Mode.
04-02-2008, 01:46 PM   #3
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Hmmm, the green button, I have yet to use that little guy. I should of brought my manual with me to work.
04-02-2008, 02:17 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Buddha Jones Quote
Hmmm, the green button, I have yet to use that little guy. I should of brought my manual with me to work.
At your service master The Book.

04-02-2008, 02:23 PM   #5
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What? I use that little bugger all the time.
Here is a neat trick, and maybe this is in the manual and I’m just stupid since I stumbled upon it by accident. But anyhow, I use it a lot when zooming in on a picture for checking sharpness. First you have to zoom in at least one step with the wheel as usual, and then you can continue zooming with the green button (easier on the fingers, and on the wheels too I guess) and zoom out with the exposure compensation button.

Hm perhaps everybody already knew that?

Edit:
Just checked the manual, it's there. Ah well.
04-02-2008, 03:10 PM   #6
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Malvick's way with M mode and green button is the best option, Buddha, but I'd also suggest that you switch to manual focus as well.

And don't forget to allow heaps of overlap between shots! At least 20 percent, even 30 percent is maybe recommended. I can't think of any real disadvantages with lots of overlap but it will avoid disappointments from such things as vignetting at the corners (hardly noticeable in a single shot but when they are stitched... yikes!) and also gives the stitching software an easier task of putting them all together.

Gimbal, I'm a compulsive manual reader but I missed that! Thanks!
04-02-2008, 04:03 PM   #7
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Ah, this site rocks, thanks you guys!
04-02-2008, 04:28 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Buddha Jones Quote
Ah, this site rocks, thanks you guys!
I shoot a lot of panos and mosaics. Most of the time I use a pano head for critical work but the software out there is so good with a couple of companies that you can even hand hold and pan or mosaic a scene and still get a good pano with cropping in PP.

The key however, at least as I see it, is that you need to shoot in Manual Mode and keep that exposure throughout the entire pan. In high contrast images, shadows and sunlight etc., you can even auto bracket in manual mode to produce a range of exposures to choose from when assembling the final pano for blending.

In critcal blending it is not a bad idea to overkill and actually do a 33% to 50% overlap to reduce blending errors that inevitably occur from tme to time.

Stephen

04-02-2008, 05:19 PM   #9
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I dont have a pano head but I have a tripod and a level! The ballhead can rotate the whole mount so I plan on using that to get the job done.

I need to play in M mode with the green button some tomrrow when I land. I am flying out to Phoenix tomorrow and then to the Grand Canyon on Saturday so I need to make suer I know what the hell I am doing.
04-02-2008, 05:25 PM   #10
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I normally expose for the brightest part in the area I am doing the pano of then take the rest at the same aperture and shutter. I am not a pano expert but I generally get good results doing that.
04-02-2008, 07:03 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Buddha Jones Quote
I know that there is the AE lock on the K10D, does that last for just one shot? If so, how do I go about locking that for multiple shots when doing panos?
I don't know about everyone else, but on my K10D and *istD there is a little * that lights up in the viewfinder when you push AE lock, and it stays set until you push the button again, even if you take a shot.

It also keeps the exposure constant as you turn the apature and shutter dials.

This should work, however, you may want to shoot manual because with a pano, you neeed to be reallyc areful of highlights and shadows. Set the exposure manually for what you want correct.
04-02-2008, 07:21 PM   #12
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I shoot in RAW so I should have a little leeway in the exposure settings so I can correct whatever get out of wack to an extent.
04-02-2008, 07:26 PM   #13
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Another panoramic thing to remember. If you are shooting panos at the "golden hour" (sunrise or sunset), you really have to be aware of the quickly changing brightness of the world around you. You may notice an exposure difference between shots because the world is getting brighter (or darker at sunset) very quickly...even just a handful of seconds makes a difference. You won't notice it in the field but you will when you start stitching them together. You can usually correct them in PS but something to be aware of.

...just my two cents!

nav
04-02-2008, 07:41 PM   #14
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Also don't use a polarizing filter when doing panos
04-03-2008, 04:30 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by Buddha Jones Quote
I shoot in RAW so I should have a little leeway in the exposure settings so I can correct whatever get out of wack to an extent.
just so you remember that to get seamless pano's all the shots MUST be the same exposure, therefore any correction you make is multiplied by the number of frames you take.
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