[bscott]

What is the best procedure for setting the hyper focal distance when using wide angle zooms in landscape photography? I use a wide angle prime for landscape but was considering using a zoom but I not sure how to use it with out using some type of table which would be a problem.

[Canada_Rockies]

The hyperfocal distance changes as you change the zoom focal length. That means you need the table to figure out the f/stop focal distance combination.

[marosari00]

You can check this site out...
Online Depth of Field Calculator

[Na Horuk]

Old zoom lenses had funny "charts" on them to help with hyperfocal and DoF.
Lately, zoom lenses don't even have an aperture ring, and no distance scales either (and therefore no DoF scales). this means it is very hard, if not practically impossible to do hyperfocal or zone focusing reliably.
Here is what I would suggest:
a) Some zoom lenses are parfocal. This means their focal point stays at the same place as you zoom. There is an old thread with a list of these. This is important to keep in mind, because some zoom lenses will shift focus as you change the zoom, so you need to re-focus after zooming
b) If you really need hyperfocal, you can simply do test shots and add little markings to your lens - for example a little line that marks where f8 gives you "hyperfocal" at a certain focal length. The digital preview and DoF preview functions on your camera will also be very helpful with this.

Remember that hyperfocal is only "acceptable focus" and not necessarily perfect focus. It is meant for film mediums and small prints, not for modern day digital pixel-peepers with cameras that have high pixel density. A lot of people even say that with APSC cameras you should use hyperfocal for one stop faster to be on the safe side (so, set to f8, but focus as if you have f5.6).

[dms]

I stick a paper on my hood w/ the major values--plenty accurate enough--given the nature of/basis of hyperfocal values (H).

I did following for my zooms and primes at FL where I use hyperfocal values mostly. These are in feet for cropped sensor.

For FF digital (= 35mm film) use the distance given at 1 stop more open (e.g., FL 24mm, and f/11 H=7 ft. For FF/film use 7 ft but at f/8).

(BTW the table spacing gets messed up when I type this here--so I padded the lines w/ decimal points!)

.........--FL (mm)---
f stop 21 24 28 35
------...---------------
f/16...3.5..5...7.10
f/11.... 5...7.10.14
f/8 ......7.10.14.20
f/5.6..10.14.20.28

BTW w/ only one value at one FL and one Fstop, the rest can be gotten easily. Just keep increasing or decreasing by 50% the distances--see the table. E.g., 5(ft) + 50% is about 7, and then 7 + 50% is about 10, which is double the earlier 5.

[dave2k]

If you have a smartphone you can download an app to easily calculate the hyperfocal distance also. I have Hyperfocal Pro for Android, but there are a number to choose from and many are free.

[wombat2go]

What camera/lens are you using that would need a consideration of hyperfocal focus for landscapes with a wide angle lens?

[johnyates]

I suggest you make your best guess as to where in the scene to focus, and then do some focus bracketing around that point. Surely on one of your shots you'll get it right.

[dms]

In view of some of the posts that either miss the point of using hyperfocal distance, or suggest methods that take a moment or two, I would say the following.

Whether street photography or landscape, there is the element of time. For this alone the concept is useful. Grab the shot at the hyperfocal distance! In another few seconds the light may change, the person may move, and so on.

Once the shot is taken one can spend time trying to improve on it. But if it's a scene with equal import from far to near, likely the hyperfocal distance may be best anyway.

[LowVoltage]

Apps available too
If you have a smartphone you can download an app to easily calculate the hyperfocal distance also. I have Hyperfocal Pro for Android, but there are a number to choose from and many are free.

+1 for this.

I have the Simple Depth of Field Calculator app by Dennis van der Berg on my iPod and iPhone. The link I listed has a demonstration video and a list of all the cameras it supports in-app which you can select for your model. It doesn't look like it's available for Android, but my quick search shows there are a couple just like it. I like SDoF, although I wish you could simply check a box and have it force "infinity" as a requirement in it's calculations. Infinity to foreground distances are my usual concerns.

But I digress; it's a very handy tool. I like the fact that it has so many camera models in its database, although it's almost too much. Most cameras from a particular brand could be simply grouped together since they often have the same crop factor, Pentax's 1.5x, for example. The good news is the large database includes full-frame and even a handful of medium formats, and that includes the 645D!

[wombat2go]

In view of some of the posts that either miss the point of using hyperfocal distance, or suggest methods that take a moment or two, I would say the following.

Whether street photography or landscape, there is the element of time. For this alone the concept is useful. Grab the shot at the hyperfocal distance! In another few seconds the light may change, the person may move, and so on.

Once the shot is taken one can spend time trying to improve on it. But if it's a scene with equal import from far to near, likely the hyperfocal distance may be best anyway.

Well, for example is the M43 camera with a standard-to wide lens of 15mm . Here the hyperfocal is 3.77 metre. I suggest if you are doing a landscape with wide angle per bscott's op, you would be better not to blindly follow the hyperfocal.
It might be a sharper focus overall to use distance judgement and screw the focus towards 10 ~ 20 ~ 50 .. or infinity,

Try a few photos with various focus points on the scale , one test is worth a thousand learned opinions!

[Canada_Rockies]

The problem with using the hyperfocal distance is not getting straight where the concept came from. It is based on an 8"x10" print viewed from 12". It doesn't cut the mustard on a 20x30 viewed from 8". The term mentioned above "acceptably sharp" is the key to the concept.

For my iPhone, DOFMaster is a $1.99 app. DOF Calculator by Nikonians is free, but rather confusing.

My current favourite is TrueDof Intro, which is free. It's a simple set of sliders. It will work with any sensor size up to 40mm. Set the sensor size, select m or ft, switch to the main screen, set the aperture to something and slide the focus mark until the far marker hits infinity.

[dms]

Yes, 8"x10" at something like 12" (I believe it's 10") viewing distance--that is generally the basis of hyperfocal distance. And it works well for most situations.

If you plan to print very large it still usually works since the larger the print the further away we usually view it.

If you want to change this--then you can adopt another standard--e.g., for every 50% larger you plan to print--keeping the same viewing distance--you need to use the hyperfocal distance for 1 stop more open. So if you are printing 16"x20" you use the hyperfocal distance for 2 stops more open. But if this is what you want you are already a more advanced photographer and (I hope) you can figure this out, and you may not want to use the same circle of confusion, etc..

[dms]

Also, I am not suggesting one use the hyperfocal distance (H) for a 1.5 cropped sensor and 24mm focal length (FL), if you have some other sensor/FL. If you do then I suggest you make a new (simple) table like I did and put that on your lens hood--or wherever.

The source of the H values can be the optic's equations, or a software application, or whatever. Actually after I get the values I simplify/change them slightly so they are easier to use/remember. (Ease of use is more important than precision in this case!)

[wombat2go]

A little of Scheimpflug makes a big difference.
This is a photo (I maybe posted before) from a Graftar 103mm, -1 degree of back tilt and hand held with "hyperfocal" guessed 8 metre (25 foot) and f/16.
It seems sharp top to bottom and side to side on a 22 inch monitor from the fence at about 3 metre from the lens until about 80 metre.
I don't think I could do that with any of my Pentax K or P6x7 lenses.
https://app.box.com/s/71zle4bsq15813bwvbjf