[jjeling]

A while ago I bought a Pentax bellows unit fairly cheap. It was in new condition with the box and all the accessories as well. I've mounted it to my sigma 105mm macro lens for ultra macro shots but have run into some troube. I'm hoping someone else here has tried this.

My first problem is stabilizing this beast of a set up. With the bellows fully extended I'm only an inch or so away from the subject. The magnification is so much that its hard to keep the system from moving. The next problem this creates is trying to stack the images in Photoshop. Not only that, as you take the images, the dof is so razor thin you have to take so many shots to capture the whole subject the shutter movement is noticeable. Barely moving the focus or the bellows can change everything. I understand I'm essentially using the bellows as a giant extention tube but I need some help. Any ideas????

[Not a Number]

Using a 105mm macro lens on a bellows probably won't get you much more than 2.5x magnification. Your main problem is the weight of the lens.

A very sturdy tripod is required. Use mirror lock-up mode (2 sec delay) and a cable release will all help to reduce vibration. Turn of Shake Reduction - mirror lock-up mode should turn it off but I always turn it off just in case. Shake Reduction isn't very effective with macro to begin with.

As far as DOF goes use Liveview focus peaking if you have it. If not get an eyepiece magnifier and eyeball the focus. Use the focus rail adjustment, this is finely geared enough on the Pentax Auto Bellows (single rail) that I have no problems focusing at 9x magnification. I use a magnifier. It's a must with my over 50 eyes. Because of the almost non-existent DOF you want to keep as much of the subject as possible on one plane.

[jatrax]

Heavy tripod and a focusing rail. I certainly could not get decent results handheld.

[jjeling]

I've tried usingy tripod with the legs spread ;-) but that wasn't enough. Carbon fiber doesn't have the weight or rigidity needed I guess. I used then mirror lock up with my remote but it certainly is a tedious task to adjust the focus, wait for it to stop shaking. Then trigger, repeat. I suppose getting a heavier tripod or better way to mount it will be in the future but it can wait. The bellows isnt going anywhere and this is something in do when I get bored inside and don't feel like going out.

[Not a Number]

Carbon fiber should damp vibrations better than aluminum. Try hanging a weight off the center. Some tripods have a hook for this purpose. Using a flash can help too. You'll get defraction at smaller apertures so there is a trade off between increased DOF and some sharpness.

I took this on my desktop with an ancient Bogen/Manfrotto 3028 tripod with a flash using the Pentax Auto Bellows and Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 50mm f/4 macro. It's not the sharpest in world - subject was in motion, some diffraction, 10 megapixel sensor (K10D). Magnification ~3.4x

[jatrax]

tedious task to adjust the focus,

With high magnification macro it is better to adjust the position of the camera rather than the focus. That is what a focusing rail is for. Carbon fiber damps vibrations better than aluminum, so nothing wrong with the tripod, assuming it is heavy enough to support your rig. Try not extending all the legs to make it more stable.

[mrNewt]

If your tripod is not heavy enough, hook something heavy on it - like your bag/backpack.
A lot of the new carbon tripods (and aluminium ones) have a hook under where you can pull it down and put your backpack to add more weight to it if needed.

But, if you are moving from place to place a bellow and tripod might not be the best thing to do.
There are too big and very heavy to move around. Bellows are good for static, in studio environment.

For outdoors, you are better off in building some sort of rig where you can bring your flash light next to the front of your macro lens. This way you have a lot of light that you bring on your subject and you can shoot at higher shutter speeds. Focus by moving the camera rather than the focus ring.

For higher magnification when out in the field, you might want to invest in...
- either 1 macro reverse ring that will allow you to mount a 50mm, 35mm lens at the end of your macro lens in reverse - inexpensive
- or a set of macro extensions tubes - will work just like a bellow - inexpensive as well

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Last edited by mrNewt; 01-15-2014 at 11:19 AM.

[Nass]

A while ago I bought a Pentax bellows unit fairly cheap. It was in new condition with the box and all the accessories as well. I've mounted it to my sigma 105mm macro lens for ultra macro shots but have run into some troube. I'm hoping someone else here has tried this.

My first problem is stabilizing this beast of a set up. With the bellows fully extended I'm only an inch or so away from the subject. The magnification is so much that its hard to keep the system from moving. The next problem this creates is trying to stack the images in Photoshop. Not only that, as you take the images, the dof is so razor thin you have to take so many shots to capture the whole subject the shutter movement is noticeable. Barely moving the focus or the bellows can change everything. I understand I'm essentially using the bellows as a giant extention tube but I need some help. Any ideas????

I think you're on a loser using a 105 with bellows, it's too long a focal length. With a shorter reversed enlarger lens like a 50 or 35 you'd get to ultramacro with less extension and it'd be lighter too, and you'd hope sturdier. Secondly, you don't really want to be changing the bellows extension, it's better to keep the extension constant and have another stage that can do that, ie a velbon. You CAN do it by changing the bellows but it's a lot easier with a stage.

[dms]

If you want large magnification using a long FL lens means lots of extension. Instead a shorter FL lens--possibly reversed is likely better. To get to 1:1 (m=1) requires about 100mm extension for a 100mm lens set to infinity, vs. 35mm extension for a 35mm lens, and the 35mm lens may have about m=2 w/o any extension when reversed.

There are lots of ways, each with advantage(s) and disadvantage(s). You should get a good/technical book on the subject. One that shows the results of various options. Lefkowitz "The Manual of Closeup Photography" is my favorite.