How to properly shoot a building

Canmannac · 01-17-2014, 09:14 AM

Hi gang
I am just looking for your advice on what you think is needed to be included when you a shoot a building. I am developing an architecture portfolio. So when you set out to a certain building doesn't matter house, or office, castle, palace, bridge what have you, what you do think the images should entail? This is not strictly shooting for real state, though that could be considered, more so these a prime architectural landmarks in the city - Prague,
My equipment = k-5oo Fa 43 & 77, Sigma 10-20, Pentax 17-70 and Sigma 18-200 (newer version) and sigma ef 610 dg super flash, diffuser, triggers and tripod,.

So fire away!

Sam Dennis · 01-17-2014, 09:33 AM

I guess the main thing would be a tilt-shift lens.

JinDesu · 01-17-2014, 09:56 AM

Image should be detailed and sharp, with deep depth of field. Images should not include pedestrians in the image if possible (long exposure, multiple exposure blended, etc). Image can be uncorrected (distorted), but that lends a specific effect to the image. Otherwise, for most situations, a well corrected image (or tilt-shift) will look better.

**dms** · 01-17-2014, 12:46 PM

leave some room on the sides and adjust the perspective--using the software equivalent of a PC lens. Almost every shot will require this. Filter.>>Lens correction, or Edit>>Transform>>edit>>Persective or Skew, in photoshop are what I use.

Likely a good tall tripod.

And if it works out later a real PC lens. What you cannot do in software is shift the lens to get rid of reflections, or shift (and rotate) the lens to get perfect wider angle/panorama.

**Kerrowdown** · 01-17-2014, 03:59 PM

Originally posted by Canmannac

properly shoot a building

I would suggest you make sure the images are razor sharp using a tripod with good glass, remote firing etc. etc.

Try to make sure you get a good feel for the overall building, but do include some of the finer details or unusual elements too that go to make up the building.

wombat2go · 01-17-2014, 05:52 PM

Larger format and longer lenses?
I am just trying to learn a bit about architecture photography and it seems easier to keep the verticals at various distances more vertical with medium format compared to aps-c.

SMC Pentax -M 1:2.8 40mm on Pentax dslr
https://app.box.com/s/1e2b95f5a04cee8d6073

Using less than 50mm, my aps-c photos get the verticals increasingly angled out toward the edges.
Sometimes that is appealing but I think a little annoying for photos of architecture.

Takumar 1:2.8/90 on 6x7 -cropped to 1:2 aspect ratio
https://app.box.com/s/8dp6d858dgmn6u3o80nr

And I need the bubble levels.

SpecialK · 01-17-2014, 05:54 PM

Architectural photography typically requires perspective correction to keep verticals mostly vertical (truly vertical can fool the eye and make it look wrong the other way). A PC or TS lens will be a better, though more expensive, option than the more convenient and cheaper way of using software that stretches pixels.

The Rokinon 24mm TS is intriguing, but I have not quite decided I'm enough of an architectural photographer, even once in a while for fun, to justify $1000 to play. It can be used for other things, too.

The book, Photographing Buildings Inside and Out, by Norman McGrath is worth getting.

Canmannac · 01-18-2014, 07:29 AM

Ok some good info here so far. But let me ask a bit of a vapid question...why the shift lenses when there are very nice 14s 15s 12-24s from Pentax for digital. Don't they do they job? What is the use of 28mm shift lens, let 80mm. In my situation here, you need to be up tight to the building due to overhead tram lines, so it would be pointless to step back in some cases. Sure I could erase the line PP but then PP has digital shift as well. Please help to enlighten me!

Sam Dennis · 01-18-2014, 09:02 AM

Focusing Tilt Shift Lenses

link to a page with tilt shift examples

**dms** · 01-18-2014, 09:13 AM

As I mentioned earlier:

And if it works out later a real PC lens. What you cannot do in software is shift the lens to get rid of reflections, or shift (and rotate) the lens to get perfect wider angle/panorama.

Also:

a wide angel lens must be wider than the PC because you lose a lot of the original after the adjustment and cropping back to rectangular format.

Wide angle non PC lenses are not designed to minimize distortion and wavy distortion is often present and may not be fixable w/ software.

By stretching pixels in the software you lose sharpness in the more stretched areas.

Finally when one compose properly the result is seen in the viewfinder and the best perspective can be found. After the fact one is stuck with the perspective you took--which after adjustment may not be so good.

jaywes · 01-18-2014, 02:43 PM - **1 Like**

Being an architect (finishing up my license exams as we speak), photography is only second to architecture as my passion. I am all around it daily and live in the perfect location for it: New York City. Most of what others have said are true about the distortion and converging lines. It's hard to control and leaving lots of space around main focus of image is a must.

Honestly I am just now seriously (hobbist & some documentary work for my firm) getting into architectural photography. You can see my sig for the lenses I have. Have not really tested and fully shot the k 28mm shift since I got it a few months ago. Looking forward to doing so next month or so. Just ordered a da* 50-135. Will utilize this for details and partial shots. Sold my Tamron 10-24. Will get a sigma UWA soon.

A poor attempt was this set. Was definitely learning and used my kit 18-55mm lens at the time. Needs to be edited and straightened:
Landmark Estates - a set on Flickr

A more recent attempt came out better but I am still very critical of myself and look to improve. Distortion got the best of me on bldg sides and had to stretch a lot to straighten lines. Final images weren't what I wanted.
907 Broadway - a set on Flickr

I also posted about it here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/10-pentax-slr-lens-discussion/232285-test...ext-steps.html

bigted · 01-18-2014, 03:14 PM

To me it's important to be able to get a sense of size from the image. In jaywes's 907 Broadway set the first image does it very well as there is a pedestrian, traffic signals and a few other cues that help show how big this beautiful building is (when I saw it it was raining

).

jaywes · 01-20-2014, 11:30 AM

Originally posted by bigted

To me it's important to be able to get a sense of size from the image. In jaywes's 907 Broadway set the first image does it very well as there is a pedestrian, traffic signals and a few other cues that help show how big this beautiful building is (when I saw it it was raining

).

Thank you

I have to agree. Sometimes a figure is necessary to portray a certain human scale to what is being photographed. Not saying this is real estate photography as that is a different animal. In that case no people and less "clutter" in a photo is a must.

Canmannac · 01-20-2014, 03:08 PM

Let me ask naive question... in the tilt /shift equation of the lens, which is more necessary? the tilt or the shift because you could get adapters for one or the other and throw them on a old good 28mm Ziess. Any ideas?

jaywes · 01-20-2014, 03:17 PM

Originally posted by Sam Dennis

Focusing Tilt Shift Lenses

link to a page with tilt shift examples

See this link posted here above with all the details. For architectural purposes, you want the shift function. The more parallel the sensor plane is to the building plane the better, essentially. This eliminates the appearance that the building is falling back/away from you. Tilt is for more artistic ventures, generally.

01-17-2014, 09:14 AM	#1
Canmannac Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Prague Photos: Albums Posts: 272	How to properly shoot a building Hi gang I am just looking for your advice on what you think is needed to be included when you a shoot a building. I am developing an architecture portfolio. So when you set out to a certain building doesn't matter house, or office, castle, palace, bridge what have you, what you do think the images should entail? This is not strictly shooting for real state, though that could be considered, more so these a prime architectural landmarks in the city - Prague, My equipment = k-5oo Fa 43 & 77, Sigma 10-20, Pentax 17-70 and Sigma 18-200 (newer version) and sigma ef 610 dg super flash, diffuser, triggers and tripod,. So fire away!

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01-17-2014, 09:33 AM	#2
Sam Dennis Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 124	I guess the main thing would be a tilt-shift lens.

01-17-2014, 09:56 AM	#3
JinDesu Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: New York City Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,638	Image should be detailed and sharp, with deep depth of field. Images should not include pedestrians in the image if possible (long exposure, multiple exposure blended, etc). Image can be uncorrected (distorted), but that lends a specific effect to the image. Otherwise, for most situations, a well corrected image (or tilt-shift) will look better.

01-17-2014, 12:46 PM	#4
dms Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: New York, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,192	leave some room on the sides and adjust the perspective--using the software equivalent of a PC lens. Almost every shot will require this. Filter.>>Lens correction, or Edit>>Transform>>edit>>Persective or Skew, in photoshop are what I use. Likely a good tall tripod. And if it works out later a real PC lens. What you cannot do in software is shift the lens to get rid of reflections, or shift (and rotate) the lens to get perfect wider angle/panorama.

01-17-2014, 03:59 PM	#5
Kerrowdown PEG Moderator Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Highlands of Scotland... "Hold Infinity in the palm of your hand" - William Blake Photos: Gallery Posts: 57,835	Originally posted by Canmannac properly shoot a building I would suggest you make sure the images are razor sharp using a tripod with good glass, remote firing etc. etc. Try to make sure you get a good feel for the overall building, but do include some of the finer details or unusual elements too that go to make up the building.

01-17-2014, 05:52 PM	#6
wombat2go Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Michigan Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,207	Larger format and longer lenses? I am just trying to learn a bit about architecture photography and it seems easier to keep the verticals at various distances more vertical with medium format compared to aps-c. SMC Pentax -M 1:2.8 40mm on Pentax dslr https://app.box.com/s/1e2b95f5a04cee8d6073 Using less than 50mm, my aps-c photos get the verticals increasingly angled out toward the edges. Sometimes that is appealing but I think a little annoying for photos of architecture. Takumar 1:2.8/90 on 6x7 -cropped to 1:2 aspect ratio https://app.box.com/s/8dp6d858dgmn6u3o80nr And I need the bubble levels.

01-17-2014, 05:54 PM	#7
SpecialK Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: So California Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,481	Architectural photography typically requires perspective correction to keep verticals mostly vertical (truly vertical can fool the eye and make it look wrong the other way). A PC or TS lens will be a better, though more expensive, option than the more convenient and cheaper way of using software that stretches pixels. The Rokinon 24mm TS is intriguing, but I have not quite decided I'm enough of an architectural photographer, even once in a while for fun, to justify $1000 to play. It can be used for other things, too. The book, Photographing Buildings Inside and Out, by Norman McGrath is worth getting.

01-18-2014, 07:29 AM	#8
Canmannac Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Prague Photos: Albums Posts: 272 Original Poster	Ok some good info here so far. But let me ask a bit of a vapid question...why the shift lenses when there are very nice 14s 15s 12-24s from Pentax for digital. Don't they do they job? What is the use of 28mm shift lens, let 80mm. In my situation here, you need to be up tight to the building due to overhead tram lines, so it would be pointless to step back in some cases. Sure I could erase the line PP but then PP has digital shift as well. Please help to enlighten me!

01-18-2014, 09:02 AM	#9
Sam Dennis Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Posts: 124	Focusing Tilt Shift Lenses link to a page with tilt shift examples

01-18-2014, 09:13 AM	#10
dms Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: New York, NY Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,192	As I mentioned earlier: And if it works out later a real PC lens. What you cannot do in software is shift the lens to get rid of reflections, or shift (and rotate) the lens to get perfect wider angle/panorama. Also: a wide angel lens must be wider than the PC because you lose a lot of the original after the adjustment and cropping back to rectangular format. Wide angle non PC lenses are not designed to minimize distortion and wavy distortion is often present and may not be fixable w/ software. By stretching pixels in the software you lose sharpness in the more stretched areas. Finally when one compose properly the result is seen in the viewfinder and the best perspective can be found. After the fact one is stuck with the perspective you took--which after adjustment may not be so good.

01-18-2014, 02:43 PM - 1 Like	#11
jaywes Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: New York, USA Posts: 235	Being an architect (finishing up my license exams as we speak), photography is only second to architecture as my passion. I am all around it daily and live in the perfect location for it: New York City. Most of what others have said are true about the distortion and converging lines. It's hard to control and leaving lots of space around main focus of image is a must. Honestly I am just now seriously (hobbist & some documentary work for my firm) getting into architectural photography. You can see my sig for the lenses I have. Have not really tested and fully shot the k 28mm shift since I got it a few months ago. Looking forward to doing so next month or so. Just ordered a da* 50-135. Will utilize this for details and partial shots. Sold my Tamron 10-24. Will get a sigma UWA soon. A poor attempt was this set. Was definitely learning and used my kit 18-55mm lens at the time. Needs to be edited and straightened: Landmark Estates - a set on Flickr A more recent attempt came out better but I am still very critical of myself and look to improve. Distortion got the best of me on bldg sides and had to stretch a lot to straighten lines. Final images weren't what I wanted. 907 Broadway - a set on Flickr I also posted about it here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/10-pentax-slr-lens-discussion/232285-test...ext-steps.html

01-18-2014, 03:14 PM	#12
bigted Moderator Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Jessica Lake, Whiteshell Provincial Park, or Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 1,594	To me it's important to be able to get a sense of size from the image. In jaywes's 907 Broadway set the first image does it very well as there is a pedestrian, traffic signals and a few other cues that help show how big this beautiful building is (when I saw it it was raining ).

01-20-2014, 11:30 AM	#13
jaywes Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: New York, USA Posts: 235	Originally posted by bigted To me it's important to be able to get a sense of size from the image. In jaywes's 907 Broadway set the first image does it very well as there is a pedestrian, traffic signals and a few other cues that help show how big this beautiful building is (when I saw it it was raining ). Thank you I have to agree. Sometimes a figure is necessary to portray a certain human scale to what is being photographed. Not saying this is real estate photography as that is a different animal. In that case no people and less "clutter" in a photo is a must.

01-20-2014, 03:08 PM	#14
Canmannac Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Prague Photos: Albums Posts: 272 Original Poster	Let me ask naive question... in the tilt /shift equation of the lens, which is more necessary? the tilt or the shift because you could get adapters for one or the other and throw them on a old good 28mm Ziess. Any ideas?

01-20-2014, 03:17 PM	#15
jaywes Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: New York, USA Posts: 235	Originally posted by Sam Dennis Focusing Tilt Shift Lenses link to a page with tilt shift examples See this link posted here above with all the details. For architectural purposes, you want the shift function. The more parallel the sensor plane is to the building plane the better, essentially. This eliminates the appearance that the building is falling back/away from you. Tilt is for more artistic ventures, generally.