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06-25-2014, 04:31 PM   #16
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How do you get THAT CLOSE to a fly w/o disturbing it?!?!?!

06-25-2014, 05:31 PM   #17
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Move slow. Or sit there and wait till it lands close by. Flies will often let you get fairly close.

Then again it also depends on what macro rig you use. My 50mm with extension tubes has a working distance of a couple of inches. Even flies don't like to let me get that close. The 135mm and extension tubes has a working distance of a little over a foot, much better chances of getting a shot. But still move slow or sit still and wait.

My keeper rate varies. I shoot almost all hand held, I usually don't have time or inclination to set up a tripod, especially for insects. They don't sit there and wait that long. IN some cases, I Can get a good shot with only 2 or 3 tries, other cases I might take a dozen before I get what I want.

This one was the only one I took. Not often I get one shot and it comes out this good...(did use flash)



As I learned how to see what I'm focusing on I got better results. It takes time and practice. Sometimes I lean in and out to get focus, lately I've been using the focus ring a bit more. I have pretty steady hands, I normally use a flash, but will wok without the flash if I have enough sunlight.

I always try to focus on the eyes of insects or any bird or animal, and on the center section of flowers. I watch for that to come into focus as I shoot. The main problem is learning what to look for, that just takes practice. But I find macro actually easier to see than bird shots, having it close up I get a better idea what the result will be.

Most of mine are shot with flash, but I think I have a couple uploaded without...like this one.

Hand held, 50mm and binocular lens macro rig, natural light. f11, ISO 200, 1/350



Same rig, f11, ISO 200, 1/250 hand held



f11, ISO200, 1/350 all taken the same day.



I can tell these were taken using the A 50mm f1.4, it's the only 50mm I have that will communicate with the camera so EXIF shows the aperture, and extension tubes remove that ability so I know they were taken using the binocular lens rig. Shutter speed above 1/180 tells me flash was not used.
06-25-2014, 07:38 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by kodai84 Quote
How do you get THAT CLOSE to a fly w/o disturbing it?!?!?!

You have to be patient and move slow also make sure your shadow does not fall on the insect you are shooting that scares them off
06-25-2014, 11:21 PM   #19
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Thank you for the tips, the photos and the detailed reply!

Regards,

Jim

06-26-2014, 11:11 AM   #20
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I'm no macro photographer, but out of the 5 frames I took this was the closest I got to usable. Not much DoF to play with here, even at f/14.

DA 55-300 + Raynox DCR-150
06-26-2014, 01:41 PM   #21
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These were shot using catch in focus. Basically the same thing as someone else posted about setting the focus ring and moving the camera/body together. As Norm said, I shake bad also, so I use a flash with all my macro shots to help stop movement. Flash was the biggest thing that improved my macro shooting. Like hangman I use f11-f16 to get good DOF and 1/180 shutter.

Last edited by bluestringer; 07-05-2014 at 06:53 PM.
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