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10-21-2014, 08:58 PM   #1
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shooting from airplane

hi, need to get some ideas!! i m heading to hilo hawaii & i want to take pictures from a plane. i read that you select the shutter speed(around 1/500 or 1/800)& set aperture & iso to auto?? any suggestions?? .what lens shall i use??? should i take the k200d or k30??

10-21-2014, 09:21 PM   #2
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Take your K-30. As for technique, given the fact that there will be a lot of light, you should be fine in P mode.

(Tip: smartphones also work wonders for on-the-fly airplane shots, in case you don't have time to reach for your camera)

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10-21-2014, 09:33 PM   #3
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I usually use K-30 + Sigma 17-70 2.8-4, SR is usually having problems with anything longer.
Turn the sound and flash off, keep low profile, on some flights I was asked to turn my camera off during take off and landing , a bit overkill I think
10-21-2014, 10:36 PM   #4
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I used to do it a lot--especially night shots for which I used iso 320 slide film and typically 1/15s at f1.8. For daylight the camera should meter fine.

Pick a window seat on the more interesting side--e.g., on the side where the setting sun can be seen. You will want to try being above the wing, and also clear of it--as it gives you different framing options. It's nice to have the wing as part of the shots often.

I would suggest you take a thin cardboard (maybe letter size) and cut out a hole for the lens to fit in, Have the black side (nicer if it has black) facing out--and if you want you can try putting a step down or up ring on after the cardboard--to hold it in place (I never did this and it worked out fine). Put the rig together on the plane, and then when you shoot there will not be any reflections off the window--as the cardboard blocks the cabin light from striking the window. This may be problematic with newer plastic barrel lenses--older metal lenses work fine. I usually used 50 mm on my 35mm SLR camera--and I would think about 28mm to 35mm on cropped digital would work well.

I got many striking photo's--mostly at night of runway lights blurred as plane was taking off or landing, and of city light from high up, and of other planes as you are taxing.

P.S. I believe I got the technique (black cardboard pressed on lens) from Russ Kinne's "The Complete Book of Nature Photography," Amphoto, 1979.


Last edited by dms; 10-21-2014 at 11:08 PM. Reason: Add Reference
10-22-2014, 05:30 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by dms Quote
I would suggest you take a thin cardboard (maybe letter size) and cut out a hole for the lens to fit in
That's the great idea, thanks.
I can add one more thing- clean the window before shooting. I always do.
10-22-2014, 05:31 AM   #6
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My best advice is to get a polarizer and learn to use it:

Polarizing Filter Basics - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

It will help you cut reflections on the windows.
10-22-2014, 11:53 AM   #7
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thanks for the info guys. I planned to get a flight tour using a high wing Cessna & taking pictures of volcanos & lava flows & whatever I can while I am in the air!!!

10-22-2014, 12:11 PM   #8
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I believe using a PL filter w/ plastic airplane windows will (may?) cause some false colors associated with strain present in the plastic--which has a large pressure difference on it. [I never actually tried a PL for this application.]
10-22-2014, 12:20 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by nutkasse Quote
thanks for the info guys. I planned to get a flight tour using a high wing Cessna & taking pictures of volcanos & lava flows & whatever I can while I am in the air!!!
Already a lot of good advice, so I only add a little bit more from my experience (which was not, unfortunately, in Hawaii).

I suggest a wide to mid-telephoto zoom (I found my Tamron 28-75 to be a great choice). A long telephoto will probably be blurry due to vibration, and if you're high up, you don't need an ultrawide.

I would go for 1/1000 at least. There is a lot of vibration in a small plane. I didn't bother with SR, and I don't know if it would help much.

I use TAv with aperature at f/8 or preferably f/11 to get good sharpness and depth of field. In the daylight you should have a decent ISO value. Definitely take the K30 for the better noise profile.

If at all possible, shoot from an open window (but make sure you have a good strap on your camera). The Cessna high wing planes I have been in have a small window that you can open and stick the camera through.

Use high speed continuous shutter and machine gun it. You will find even at 1/1000 that many shots will be soft due to vibration.

Don't forget to enjoy the flight and the scenery without the camera.

Kevin

Last edited by klh; 10-22-2014 at 01:48 PM.
10-22-2014, 12:30 PM   #10
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Another thought about PL filter--the sun reflecting of the ground/water--whatever--may be partially polarized, so the PL is an excellent idea (Ansel Adams in his book "Camera and Lens" gives an example taken from a small plane, and mentions a PL filter would have helped.) Depends on the subject, but just be aware the plastic windows can lead to other colors.
10-22-2014, 01:28 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by dms Quote
I believe using a PL filter w/ plastic airplane windows will (may?) cause some false colors associated with strain present in the plastic--which has a large pressure difference on it. [I never actually tried a PL for this application.]
I did exactly that on my own trip to Hawaii. No worries about colour patterns.

The reflections on the water won't be cut at the same time as reflections on the windows, since they are mostly at right angle from one another. so cutting the reflections on the windows will actually increase the reflections on water. but it's better not to see part of your body, camera or seat reflected on every picture.
11-16-2014, 05:01 PM   #12
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Another thing you can do, you can find out exactly what model of airplane you're gonna fly with, then there are charts on the internet showing the seat position relative to the windows and wings. Just to check in the best seat for shooting.

One thing that bothers me is that windows are always dirty.
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