[severalsnakes]

"Exciting" news for me: I get to use my camera/photography for my job next week! How's that, you say, since I'm a secretary at an attorney's office?

Without disclosing confidential details, clients of a builder are accusing said company of shoddy work. The attorney and I will go visit the home with an uninterested third-party expert, and I get to take pictures documenting what the builder's clients claim is poor quality craftsmanship. Needless to say, I won't be using my fish eye. There won't be a straight line in the place! X-D

I was planning on bringing my, K-30, new Vivitar DF-383 flash and my Sigma Mini-wide II (28/2.8), which focuses down to 1:4. I have a wide variety of lenses, but no auto-focus lenses, and I don't have anything wider than 28mm (besides the fish eye). I will have my MX-1 if needed. I'd rather not use the MX-1 because of barrel distortion at wide angles, but we'll see.

This is mostly going to be construction deficiencies: walls don't meet at square, floors/ceilings are not level, etc. It'll be important to be thoughtful about giving the error reference in the space it's installed...

I would welcome any advice for techniques for getting the most descriptive shots, that could potentially function as evidence at trial.

[waterfall]

My job is to investigate these types of claims. I begin with a locating shot, of a wall for example, then foot zoom or zoom zoom to the alleged fault or defect. My standard lens choice for this is the 18-135. If using flash, I suggest being aware of reflective surfaces than will create blown highlights. If ceilings are less than ten feet high, bounce flash off the ceiling is a good practice.

Try and have all the interior room lights turned on, if possible. For exterior shots I always begin with a wide angle of the building elevation, then zero in on the problem area. Lack of contrast on exterior walls was a problem before I got the habit of looking slightly askance to produce texture and slight shadows.

[RGlasel]

Everything waterfall said above. The only thing I would add is that you should avoid too much contrast in the area on interest, bright and dark areas in the frame make it difficult to see evidence in a photo that the naked eye can easily pick out.

[Tamia]

Congrats on being assigned this task. Should be interesting!

I've no experience photographing this kind of thing, but I do some building work, and also assist in house construction and remodeling. One thing that comes to mind is to have props to show scale and also "squareness." Take a level and a metal square or triangle* with you, and maybe a measuring tape, placing them strategically to show the deficiencies. Sometimes photographs without such tools in the frame aren't quite enough to indicate what you wish to show.



* A "speed square" is a handy, small, and cheap tool which can be found in any hardware and many big box retailers. Wikipedia has an article on them.

[AquaDome]

The Mini-Wide should be fine. I use it for photographing the undersides of bulldozers.

[Colbyt]

This is mostly going to be construction deficiencies: walls don't meet at square, floors/ceilings are not level, etc. It'll be important to be thoughtful about giving the error reference in the space it's installed...

As a guy who takes pictures and does a lot of construction work, those are going to be very hard to document unless you take some "tools". This device Empire Level e1190 16-Inch by 24-Inch Professional Framing Square, Blue or Black Anodized Aluminum - Carpentry Squares - Amazon.com when held aganist a wall or ceiling will show the error with a gap one place or the other.

This guy http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-42-480-48-Inch-Professional-I-Beam/dp/B00002X2...s=4+foot+level when sitting on a floor or counter will show whether the item in question is level or not. When held against a wall it will show whether or not the wall is plumb (truly vertical). One that has a window on the edge (top) of the tool is best for photo.

I would use my 21mm for wide shots and a 50 for close up readings of the tool. Any lens that will focus down to about 18-24" should be able to capture the tool reads when cropped @100%.

Continuing on as a guy who does a lot of construction work, almost nothing is ever truly plumb or level in any house; the degree of error will make or break the case if you have an intelligent jury so even though you may not choose to use them as evidence (when / if you find out your client is full of it) you will also want a straight-edge to measure the gap for the out of square photos. Some builder shims and the same same straight edge will allow you to determine that the floor or counter is x" of level in four foot. Your boss can Google acceptable deviations for plumb, square and level as it pertains to BOCA codes.

And with apologies, in advance, to Rupert plumbers do more to damage a house structure than all the termites in world.

[dms]

I didn't notice it/if anyone commented--you were planning on bringing a tripod?

[severalsnakes]

Good advice, all. I appreciate these tips and experience. Keep 'em coming.

Bringing a square, level and straight edge/measuring tape is certainly imperative.

I didn't notice it/if anyone commented--you were planning on bringing a tripod?

I plan on having my tripod available, but doubt I will necessarily need it. I'd also like to avoid using the flash if at all possible, to avoid about excessively contrasty images, as RGlasel says. These images are going to be about representing the object and noise is forgivable for these utilitarian images. This case, like most cases, will likely be settled long before it goes to trial, but it is important to consider the audience when creating the images. I want to show the settings as naturally as possible, but in the most beneficial way for our client's case, obviously.

Legal work is funny. You've got the Plaintiff and their story. Then you've got the Defendant and their story. Then you've got the truth somewhere in between. It's always that way. You just have to hope you get an attorney that makes a better argument than the other one.

I think the K-30 and Mini-wide II will be capable for the task... but, without knowing the architectural features of the home, I probably ought to bring a zoom, too, eh?

Anything else you can think of will be considered and valued. Thanks again.

[T Evergreen]

One other tool you might consider is a plumbob on the end of a string, held in place with a tack. With spirit levels and the like, there can always be a question of accuracy or one of perspective, but a weight on the end of a string runs true. Using a plumbob in conjunction with a ruler will give you an accurate visual indication of vertical misalignments such as how far a wall, doorway, window, trim, etc., is out of plumb.

[waterfall]

One other tool you might consider is a plumbob on the end of a string, held in place with a tack. With spirit levels and the like, there can always be a question of accuracy or one of perspective, but a weight on the end of a string runs true. Using a plumbob in conjunction with a ruler will give you an accurate visual indication of vertical misalignments such as how far a wall, doorway, window, trim, etc., is out of plumb.

In my experience, parties other than Plaintiffs' are not allowed to perform any "destructive" tests. Don't know if the OP is working for Plaintiffs.

[Des]

The attorney and I will go visit the home with an uninterested third-party expert

I hope the expert will be disinterested rather than uninterested.

Legal work is funny. You've got the Plaintiff and their story. Then you've got the Defendant and their story. Then you've got the truth somewhere in between. It's always that way.

Building cases are notorious for this. Often the problem comes down to different expectations and misunderstandings between client and buider.

Great photography advice already. I'd just add: shoot RAW and keep backups of your photos.

[severalsnakes]

I hope the expert will be disinterested rather than uninterested.

I just mean that he doesn't stand to benefit, no matter who "wins". Semantics: I guess that's why I'm the secretary and not the attorney. ;-)

[waterfall]

"Shoddy" work in my experience is a claim that settles. Only structural damage resulting from shoddy work wins. Interior punch list item cases suck, because there is no defect: it is all about expectations and promises. So, take lots of pictures, and be patient. Two years after first inspection to settlement is normal, if there is no trial (at least in my jurisdictions). Have fun. Doubt your tripod will be useful because the whole procedure moves too quickly from one room to the next. I have never had one single family residence (out of around 10,000) where the interior inspection lasted more than 3 hours, and those were where mold guys were seeking bugs. Of course, Missouri might have different statutory defect definitions than Minnesota. Here, punch list claims come down to contractual disputes about what was promised. Disclaimer: I only work on behalf of builders and construction subs.

[chiggerbyt]

Don't know what you mean by expert but ....Hire an experienced framing and finish carpenter to take with you (possibly retired). He/she will have all the tools and be able to properly position such to show what you need in your photo journal. It's what I did for a living for 40+ years and pretty much seen it all as would most carpenters with a long history in the trade. If it involves complex finish stairs you may have to consult a professional stair builder as well.

[Des]

I guess that's why I'm the secretary and not the attorney. ;-)

Impress your boss by showing you know the difference! Disinterested = impartial. Uninterested = bored.