[GeneV]

I've been photographing a lot of jewelry lately for artist friends. I mostly use a softbox and reflectors. I have ended up stacking exposures, especially on necklaces.

Yesterday, trying to avoid the trouble of merging a stack in Photoshop, I started using smaller apertures. The interesting thing that happens at F/22 is not the diffraction which was discussed on a thread a while back, but the fact that now every wrinkle, and even the weave of the fabric in the front of my softbox is reflected in the shiny backgrounds. The shot below wast taken on top of a piece of shiny acrylic. The wrinkles are more pronounced in full resolution.

Any tips for smoothing our or eliminating issues with the front diffuser of a softbox?

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

File Date

 

[Digitalis]

Standard technique for a shot like this calls for a T/S lens or large format camera with the front standard tilted to keep the DOF on the jewelery, while still throwing outside elements like the reflection of the soft-box diffusion material out of focus, however when using a camera with a fixed focus plane you have three possible solutions: exhaustive post processing - cloning out the wrinkles, or Ironing the diffusion material of the soft box or you could use a scrim held or clamped over the front soft-box which will further diffuse the light and eliminate wrinkles. Personally I prefer to use scrims for images involving reflective backgrounds and subjects - because of their large area and also the fact that the diffusion material is tightly stretched across the frame which eliminates wrinkles.

[GeneV]

Standard technique for a shot like this calls for a T/S lens or large format camera with the front standard tilted to keep the DOF on the jewelery, while still throwing outside elements like the reflection of the soft-box diffusion material out of focus, however when using a camera with a fixed focus plane you have three possible solutions: exhaustive post processing - cloning out the wrinkles, or Ironing the diffusion material of the soft box or you could use a scrim held or clamped over the front soft-box which will further diffuse the light and eliminate wrinkles. Personally I prefer to use scrims for images involving reflective backgrounds and subjects - because of their large area and also the fact that the diffusion material is tightly stretched across the frame which eliminates wrinkles.

I have already been in the post processing mode. Thanks for the suggestions about the scrims. I had already ordered an acrylic translucent diffusion panel, and I will see how that works.

I actually started having this issue most acutely when I raised the softbox so that I could get a higher, flatter POV. I agree that a camera with a tilting lens would be the classic solution, and I have done that in the past with LF. There are too many variables to try for me to want to go back to film where outtakes are costly.

[amoringello]

It is an easy quick fix in Photoshop.

1. Duplicate layer then use Smart Sharpen or Unmask Sharpen on the image.
2. Use Quick Selection on the grey area, then refine the edge so it includes all of the jewelry edges and shadows.
3. Duplicate that layer, use the eye dropper tool on the darkest grey area then use the paint brush at 100% opacity to even the color. If you want more texture on the background reduce the opacity of this duplicate layer.


Note: I've noticed this site softens ones photos, the jewelry appears much sharper on my computer.

When I photographed some jewelry for a friend of mine I found this site had some useful information... Jewelry Photography Tips - How to photograph Jewelry

Maybe just because a quick masking job was done, but these steps destroyed the chain.

(Edit: I realized I pretty much repeated Digitais' comments about the background, scrims, etc....)

Additionally, if you're doing this seriously, Translum Diffusion material might be your best solution.
It is a translucent plastic sheet that is more versatile and reusable than, lets say a white paper background.
Savage Translum Diffusion Background (54" x 18') 55418 B&H

---

Last edited by amoringello; 02-16-2015 at 10:04 AM.

[tuco]

Diffuse the light source even more. Perhaps consider bounce light instead.

[bdery]

Move the background farther away, move the light source closer to the subject, try not to use such a small aperture!

[GeneV]

Maybe just because a quick masking job was done, but these steps destroyed the chain.

(Edit: I realized I pretty much repeated Digitais' comments about the background, scrims, etc....)

Additionally, if you're doing this seriously, Translum Diffusion material might be your best solution.
It is a translucent plastic sheet that is more versatile and reusable than, lets say a white paper background.
Savage Translum Diffusion Background (54" x 18') 55418 B&H

I looked at that translucent plastic sheets, and I may end up going there. I ordered a 1/8" thick 24" x 24" white 50% translucent sheet which is about the right size, cheaper and may be easier to handle than that 18' x 4' roll.

The masking is not the problem in Photoshop, but the change in the look of the background is. I can blur the background a bit, but then the glossy surface starts to look like satin. It is not a bad look, but not what I had in mind.

---------- Post added 02-16-15 at 01:01 PM ----------

Move the background farther away, move the light source closer to the subject, try not to use such a small aperture!

Basically, that means go back to what I was doing successfully for all the pieces before this one. With this particular necklace, I wanted to get above it and shoot down because it had interesting links even back at the clasp. It also does not hang well on a necklace stand due to the large rose pendant. That is why I ended up raising the sotfbox, and the trouble started.

---------- Post added 02-16-15 at 01:08 PM ----------

..Perhaps consider bounce light instead.

I was thinking about some bounce as well.

[Digitalis]

I can blur the background a bit, but then the glossy surface starts to look like satin. It is not a bad look, but not what I had in mind.

Why not use satin material? it solves your issue with reflections. In the studio where I work we have boxes filled with materials of all kinds for draping over furniture and for backgrounds for close up subjects.

Photographing metal is never as easy as we make it look. Photographing my oboe was a real pain, avoiding overexposing the pristine sterling silver keywork while showing the texture of the dark Grenadilla wood was a real test of dynamic range.

[GeneV]

As I said, there is nothing wrong with satin, but I had something more like the shot attached here in mind. https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/138-pentax-k-01/178409-add-your-best-k-01...ml#post3130402 That shot was set up on the same piece of black acrylic as the gray on attached above. The biggest difference is that the soft box for the earrings was much lower and off center. All sorts of issues started when the box went up a few feet.

[Sagitta]

Don't forget that the newer Pentax cameras allow you to do a bit of mild faux-T/S work on a photo in-camera. Maybe that would help a bit as it could help mask the issues.

[bdery]

One thing that can be done, instead of moving the softbox overhead, is to add other light sources, or reflectors, to the back. It should work well enough for your purpose.

[GeneV]

One thing that can be done, instead of moving the softbox overhead, is to add other light sources, or reflectors, to the back. It should work well enough for your purpose.

I'm not sure I understand what you are suggesting. The softbox was always overhead, but had to be raised to work underneath.

[bdery]

I'm not sure I understand what you are suggesting. The softbox was always overhead, but had to be raised to work underneath.

All sorts of issues started when the box went up a few feet.

I was referring to that comment, which apparently I misunderstood.

[GeneV]

I do think raising the box up is a problem. The diffuse light over the entire background becomes a bright square in a much smaller area. If you are suggesting I aim the box away and only use the spill, that might actually work if the light is strong enough. If that is what you would supplement with reflected light, then it could help.

[GeneV]

A purchase of some translucent white acrylic, (http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B006FLZ0R6) and the problem is solved.

Below is the setup, and below that is the result. I still need to play with the composition, but the wrinkles are gone.