Last year, I had acquired a GPS unit and started using it. I started a thread here, somewhat as a notebook to myself as to what I was doing, what was working, what wasn't, along with how I was doing it.
This is a continuation of the log for this year.
I had gone out a couple of times, earlier this year, but the Milky Way was rising later in the evening - well really the morning (1-5am), so this time of the year its now in the 8pm to 11pm during the evening. Actually, here in July, its twilight past 8pm, so its somewhat of a race for the sun set and get dark enough, and for the Milky Way to get in a reasonable position in the sky. I went back to my old haunting grounds - the Superstition Mountain out at the Lost Dutchman State Park. It really has the best view available. The tools -
- Stellarium - to see the actual times that the Milky Way rises based on local times and location (lat and long).
- TPE - Well TPE has changed into a web app, with the old version no longer working. It provides sun/moon rise/set times and directions, geo-located to a specific graphical position on google maps.
- Weather.com - I have added this, so that I can have an idea as to the weather patterns, cloud cover, direction of movement, etc. Essentially, is it worthwhile on taking a drive to any location, and what specific area might have some clear skies? Weather.com has a map tab down at the bottom, where you can take a look at where the clouds and weather is. Also, it has a future loop, predicting the tracks for the next few hours. I have found that this works really quite well. They also have a cloud cover map, that is also very useful.
- Webcams - There are lots of webcams available - everywhere (just google the location/city/area you are interested in with "webcam" appended). I found a set that covers a number of locations that I am interested in. This way, I can take a real time look at the area to check on the weather, cloud cover, etc., before driving out.
- Google Maps - This is useful for scouting new locations, and finding roads or access to the area. Also, using their measurement (ruler) tool, you can get range and bearing from/to any location. Getting a understanding of the angle of view (what lens to use/might or might not work, etc.). Also, the images embedded for the area, provides a good idea of what it might look like. You can also plop down the "little man", and get a ground eye view (from the road) of what the access actually looks like, before actually driving there.
I took out two cameras - my K5 and K5IIs, two tripods and a host of lenses. The main lenses that I used are a:
- Sigma 18-35/f1.8 - I wanted a faster/wider lens based on using my 31LTD last year. The f4 lenses were ok, but slow. I did have a couple of f2.8 lenses - a 25mm and a 28mm, but these were not wide enough. I was thinking of some of the 14/f2.8 lenses, but in the end just oped for the f1.8. The 18mm is wide enough and folks have indicated that its a great lens for astro, if you can actually get it focused.
- SMC A 50/f1.7 - This is my $12 lens that I picked up years ago, when they were cheap. It's fast and easy to use. So, while the wide lens is doing astro landscapes, I mount this, aim it (focusing is easy, just set it on infinity), put the camera in burst mode and let it just sit there taking images for stacking.
Went out and setup both systems (tripods, heads and wired shutter releases)...
- K5IIs - Set this up using the Sigma 18-35, with the GPS unit. It calibrated right away (although I had test calibrated it back at the house prior to leaving). I shot at ISO 1600, at 15 seconds. I had found that 20 seconds had the stars trailing before, so I cut the time down. I also, took some just general landscape images of the mountain to use for layering. I focused on the top of the mountain, where it meets the sky for the greatest contrast, and the lens focused just fine. Then put both the lens and the camera into manual focusing and did not touch it for the rest of the night.
- K5 - Set this up using the A 50/f1.7. Put the body in burst mode, focused the lens by turning it to infinity. I used a number of ISO values 6400 to 8000 for 15 seconds each at f1.7. I see that at 15 seconds, the stars are beginning to trail. I guess I should have use 10 seconds.
What were the results. Well they were really pretty good in my estimation. I was sort of expecting a bit better however.
- GPS based images - I am really pleased with the capture here - with the exception of the star trailing at the edges. [image 1] I was shooting at 4 minutes and 3 minutes. I changed to 3 minutes, thinking that I saw some trailing. But, when I got home - I still had trailing on the 3 minute shots. The center of the images were pinpoints. So, I am thinking that 2 minutes should be good, and boost the ISO to 3200.
- Landscape base - I shot this early on, at 70 seconds, ISO 400 at f1.8. [image 2]
- Stacked Star-field - This is from the 50/1.7. I took a couple of series. One set at ISO 1600 and another at ISO 8000. I then use DeepSky Stacker (free download) to stack 50 images (TIFF input, and it took about 10 minutes) to come up with this result. [image 3]
The goal is to layer
[Image 1] and
[Image 2] together. I played around with Topaz (demo download) a lot late last year, in terms of their remask utility. I found that I could sort of put everything together, however the Topaz utility that they supply did not allow you to slide or reposition one image over the other image. Topaz suggested using Adobe Elements. I have since found that Elements only uses 8 bit results to layer - for better quality you need to use Photoshop. So, now I am thinking about using GIMP or I see that LightRoom uses some stacks (but I am guessing that it will not do what I want).
On the starfield, I am just learning.
[image 3] There are probably at least a few mistakes. I did not take any dark images nor did I flatten anything. I just converted to TIFF and sucked the images in and let it go to town, so as to see just what the output may be.
On post processing, I am just using lightroom - the basic controls along with the curves.
I am finding that I really need to go farther out - to minimize the light dome from Phoenix. Also, with the Milky Way pivoting away from my current location (going vertical a bit farther south, I need to go to another vista elsewhere, where a southern shot is available and let the MW stand on top - in a much darker environment.
Last edited by interested_observer; 07-12-2015 at 11:28 AM.