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07-19-2015, 03:34 PM - 1 Like   #31
osv
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i need some nd filters myself, not sure what brands offer the most bang for the buck.

need to find something like this lenstip uv filter comparison UV filters test - supplement - Introduction - Lenstip.com

07-19-2015, 04:52 PM - 1 Like   #32
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if you feel you need nd filters here, try a CPL first. it'll slow the shutter a bit and take some glare off the cars too

i believe i mentioned that in an earlier post
07-19-2015, 05:55 PM   #33
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Two problems I have concerning CPL filters.

A.) As I focus my A70-210, the front element rotates.
B.) With the hood extended, there's no easy way to rotate the filter to get the different effects.

So, in those two regards, an ND filter would be a little bit easier to work with. Even though using a CPL is definitely the preferred filter when shooting cars.
07-20-2015, 06:38 AM - 1 Like   #34
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I think that instead of a ND your overall quality will be consistently better by lowering ISO. ND means that you will also see less light in the viewfinder to focus with. Lower ISO will help keep you away from the smaller apertures.

07-20-2015, 04:20 PM   #35
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Thanks everyone for all the help. I really do appreciate it. So now I know for next time, I need to open up the aperture a couple stops. I might try to either pre-expose before the cars come or use shutter priority and keep the ISO at around 100 and let the camera decide the aperture. The next event will be in mid-September, except this one will be drifting. So I've got some time before then. Maybe I'll try hitting the drag strip for a little bit more practice.

Might as well post one taken with the rented DA* 50-135 and DA1.4 TC. Man, that's one beautiful combo!
07-21-2015, 10:08 AM - 1 Like   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by From1980 Quote
I think that instead of a ND your overall quality will be consistently better by lowering ISO.
i think that he tried that, the problem is with the extremely slow shutter speeds that he wants to use.

there was apparently no settings combo that allowed for iso100, then things got out of control with the f/16 vs. iso640 combo, because the camera was running in auto mode.

this should be done in 100% manual mode, you can chimp the exposure of the shot in the lcd, with the histogram showing, without any cars even being on the track.

QuoteOriginally posted by From1980 Quote
ND means that you will also see less light in the viewfinder to focus with.
for autofocus? that could be true... if the ovf is dark, is the photo underexposed? it's been over two years since i used an ovf camera, and i never ever use af for anything these days.

when you put an nd filter on, it forces you to open up the aperture to compensate for the loss of light... similar to shooting on a shooting on a cloudy day.

circular polarizers usually cause about two stops of light loss?? which could be too much... a variable nd that has less light loss might be a good place to start.
TIFFEN FILTER FACTS POLARIZER FILTERS

---------- Post added 07-21-15 at 10:23 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by 89Y49Si Quote
Might as well post one taken with the rented DA* 50-135 and DA1.4 TC. Man, that's one beautiful combo!
you've been holding out on us!! shoulda posted that shot first, it's the sharpest of the bunch so far... well done.

Last edited by osv; 07-21-2015 at 10:16 AM.
07-21-2015, 10:56 AM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by osv Quote
i think that he tried that, the problem is with the extremely slow shutter speeds that he wants to use.

there was apparently no settings combo that allowed for iso100, then things got out of control with the f/16 vs. iso640 combo, because the camera was running in auto mode.

this should be done in 100% manual mode, you can chimp the exposure of the shot in the lcd, with the histogram showing, without any cars even being on the track.



for autofocus? that could be true... if the ovf is dark, is the photo underexposed? it's been over two years since i used an ovf camera, and i never ever use af for anything these days.

when you put an nd filter on, it forces you to open up the aperture to compensate for the loss of light... similar to shooting on a shooting on a cloudy day.

circular polarizers usually cause about two stops of light loss?? which could be too much... a variable nd that has less light loss might be a good place to start.
TIFFEN FILTER FACTS POLARIZER FILTERS

---------- Post added 07-21-15 at 10:23 AM ----------



you've been holding out on us!! shoulda posted that shot first, it's the sharpest of the bunch so far... well done.
Thanks! But this was a thread for MF, so I figured posting a photo with AF would be cheating lol. But I definitely need more practice, and I'll try full manual mode next time to lower the ISO and open up the aperture. Both you and Wiggly have been a big help, and I really appreciate it. It's very nice to know that there are still some forums with helpful people.

And I'll add another shot with the DA*50-135 and HD1.4 TC. I really need to start saving to actually purchase this lens instead of renting. It's absolutely beautiful in my eyes even at such a small aperture. I can't imagine what it would look like opened up a few stops. This one was at 1/20th shutter and f/18 with an auto ISO going to 320. It's not as clear as the last one, but the shutter is about two stops slower.


07-21-2015, 11:01 AM - 1 Like   #38
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Another great pan!
07-21-2015, 12:40 PM   #39
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Thank you!
07-22-2015, 03:24 PM - 1 Like   #40
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I think after all the questions you ended up with very nice results!
07-23-2015, 04:39 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by sergysergy Quote
I think after all the questions you ended up with very nice results!
Thanks! Definitely a good learning experience.
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