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08-22-2015, 03:30 PM   #1
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New to macro / close-up - tripod and focusing advice?

OK, so I am taking my first steps into close-up work, having invested in a reverse mount to use with my 28mm lenses, and some close-up diopters to use with my M135 F3.5. I'm looking for some advice...

For table-top close-up work:

1) From my initial tests, can i surmise that, with my limited close-up equipment, coarse focus adjustment is largely a matter of moving the camera?

2) Can you recommend a good but low-cost table tripod or other equivalent device?

3) Is there anything else that would benefit me in these early steps?

Thanks in advance

08-22-2015, 03:43 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
OK, so I am taking my first steps into close-up work, having invested in a reverse mount to use with my 28mm lenses, and some close-up diopters to use with my M135 F3.5. I'm looking for some advice...

For table-top close-up work:

1) From my initial tests, can i surmise that, with my limited close-up equipment, coarse focus adjustment is largely a matter of moving the camera?

2) Can you recommend a good but low-cost table tripod or other equivalent device?

3) Is there anything else that would benefit me in these early steps?

Thanks in advance
1. Yes
2. I use a Manfrotto XPROB.
3. You may consider picking up a decent focus rail.
08-22-2015, 04:26 PM   #3
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Hi and welcome to the macro world. You might also look into some lighting equipment. It need not be expensive. Reflectors, scrims and simple flash can do wonders. I found this youtube video very informative with lots of good tips and suggestions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nf1woH6JOxY
08-22-2015, 04:29 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Oldbayrunner Quote
1. Yes
2. I use a Manfrotto XPROB.
3. You may consider picking up a decent focus rail.
Thank you! Very helpful & much appreciated

---------- Post added 08-23-2015 at 12:31 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Bruce Clark Quote
Hi and welcome to the macro world. You might also look into some lighting equipment. It need not be expensive. Reflectors, scrims and simple flash can do wonders. I found this youtube video very informative with lots of good tips and suggestions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nf1woH6JOxY
Thanks for the welcome, advice and the link, Bruce - greatly appreciated

08-23-2015, 04:12 AM   #5
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You could also forego the tripod and use enough flash power to overpower ambient light; flash is fast enough to overcome camera shake very effectively. An issue with this approach using reversed lenses is that once you stop down the lens you have a very dim image in the viewfinder. But you can get around this with Live View, if your camera has it.

You can make a hood by putting a hole in a rear lens cap.
08-23-2015, 04:55 AM   #6
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What kind of subjects are you going to be shooting?
08-23-2015, 06:48 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by baro-nite Quote
You could also forego the tripod and use enough flash power to overpower ambient light; flash is fast enough to overcome camera shake very effectively. An issue with this approach using reversed lenses is that once you stop down the lens you have a very dim image in the viewfinder. But you can get around this with Live View, if your camera has it.

You can make a hood by putting a hole in a rear lens cap.
Thanks. I think I'll need the tripod, though, due to the depth of field. I'm amazed how shallow it is!

I have live view and focus peaking, which will certainly help with nailing focus.

---------- Post added 08-23-2015 at 02:52 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by BrianR Quote
What kind of subjects are you going to be shooting?
I have no idea right now I'm just trying it out to see what aspects I might enjoy. However, I'd like to try some abstracts with common objects materials and textures.

08-23-2015, 12:42 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by BigMackCam Quote
Thanks. I think I'll need the tripod, though, due to the depth of field. I'm amazed how shallow it is!
This is the key thing for newbies to grasp -- how much of a task master DoF is.
Doesn't matter how expensive or dedicated to macro your lens is -- the DoF issues remain the same.
Close-up work is about living with a shallow DoF.
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