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11-17-2015, 12:55 AM   #1
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Camera setting when shooting landscapes

After a recent 3 day workshop with a variety of photographers of various skills and equipment we were advised to shoot with these camera settings. What are your thoughts, questions, criticism.

1) sturdy level tripod and remote for reduced camera shake
2) RAW set
3) noise reduction and camera shake off
4) lcd luminosity set to high
5) live view set for pin point manual focus
6) camera settings at auto WB, Mute, contrast at minimum
7) mirror up function (which doesn't exist in the k5 (not sure about the k3)
8) Iso minimum amount (k5 set at iso extended to 80)
9) manual settings with f stop between 8-12
10) no uv filter on lens but preferably nd grad

With these setting I found even with a variety of lenses the k5 fell back considerably against the Nikon 800's and canon FF. Especially in DR and camera sharpness.

11-17-2015, 01:38 AM   #2
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I'd say that's pretty much it.
The K-5 is a fairly old APS-C camera, surely you would not be surprised that it can't keep up with full frames like the Nikon D800.
K-3 might have half a chance.
11-17-2015, 01:50 AM - 1 Like   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mattox Quote
After a recent 3 day workshop with a variety of photographers of various skills and equipment we were advised to shoot with these camera settings. What are your thoughts, questions, criticism.

1) sturdy level tripod and remote for reduced camera shake Sounds good, why no mention of the level gauge to ensure you're square with the horizon. I use the electronic one in the K5 and occassionally an external one in the flash mount. But that depends on how awkward it is to see the screen.
2) RAW set Yep, I'm a DNG guy myself, but unlike some other brands you have a choice.
3) noise reduction and camera shake off You're shooting in RAW didn't know I could apply NR. Definitely off though. SR off on a tripod, though if you are using a manual lens keep in mind the SR is handy to tell you what focal length you are shooting with. I leave the SR when I mount a manual lens so I can set the sR focal length and then I turn it off. Of course, it is automatically disabled with the mirror up setting.
4) lcd luminosity set to high I'd love to hear the explanation for this as I don't know the reasoning. I use the blinkies to enable me to get an idea of when/where I'm under/over exposed. It's interesting that there is no mention of using the histogram and ETTR.
5) live view set for pin point manual focus I use the viewfinder, but with a wide angle this is often the best way to get your focal point right, so I'm intrigued on whether there is a setting to allow me to set LV for 'pin point manual focus'. Can you explain this a bit further pelase?
6) camera settings at auto WB, Mute, contrast at minimum No processing by the camera is good, but remember to chimp as AWB may need some help, depending on what you're trying to achieve and whether you're shooting contre jour etc. As a guide it's fine, but be prepared to change to daylight or whatever if you see it's needed. Shooting RAW negates this somewhat but I prefer to get the image as I want it not what the camera gives me. So I agree if it suits me.
7) mirror up function (which doesn't exist in the k5 (not sure about the k3) My K5 comes with mirror up, I imagine yours does too.
8) Iso minimum amount (k5 set at iso extended to 80) Yeah, or native base ISO but this will depend on your camera too. I usually just leave my K5 on 100 ISO as I didn't see any real benefit, but maybe I too will go back to the extended range to shoot at 80. Why not eh?
9) manual settings with f stop between 8-12 Typically a sweet spot with a lot of lenses, but you can stop down further for a deeper depth of field. Of course, if you intend to stack your images you might be considering focusing on foreground, middle distance and distance then combining in post to give you a pin sharp image front to rear without getting into lens diffraction by stopping down. I think there is a case for stepping outside this range, it's good as a guide but if I feel like a shallower DOF then I'll shoot wider because I can. Rules can be broken if you want, but it has to suit the subject matter and what you want the image to convey.
10) no uv filter on lens but preferably nd grad No UV or protection filters. Only use ND Grad if you need one. You might for example be using a CPL and find an ND Grad is unecessary. You can use them together of course, but there are going to be vignetting issues with UWA lenses as well as the extra layers of glass reducing the absolute resolution that can be achieved without any filters. Use filters if you need to balance the dynamic range, but you don't always need to do this from my experience. Of course there's software solutions too that can negate the need to use filters if you don't have them or don't want to use them. They will potentially give you issues with flare when shooting into light sources for example. Yet the onOne Perfect Effects HDR filter will give you a lot to play with from a K5 file. Combining images is the next step and something that should have at least been mentioned in the workshop instead of you must use an ND Grad. Oh, did they mention reverse ND Grads?

With these setting I found even with a variety of lenses the k5 fell back considerably against the Nikon 800's and canon FF. Especially in DR and camera sharpness.
Wow, a five year old 16MP APSC came up short against the FF cameras? Save some coins for the Pentax FF and see how things work out then. Or, if ultimate resolution is your thing it's called a 645Z and the full frames will fall back considerably too.

The advice is pretty standard for the category, but time in the field practicing is the best thing. Hope the feedback is what you were after.

Tas
11-17-2015, 01:58 AM   #4
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Sounds like textbook recommendations.

K-3 does have mirror up function. K-30 locks up the mirror if you use 2 sec timer - I imagine the K-5 would be the same.

In determining aperture, I would consider where the diffraction effect really bites for the particular lens. Also need to consider whether you need maximum edge-to-edge sharpness - you don't always with landscapes (e.g. with a waterfall in the centre of the frame).

11-17-2015, 02:30 AM   #5
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Ahahahahaha. I was expecting that the k5 would how some better results considering that compared to most of the photographers there I am a bit of a step ahead on and off the field. These points are purely what the workshop was based on, not my opinions. We couldn't find the mirror up function on the k5 though. Very strange. High luminosty can help especially when shooting in situation where visibility is poor and it really helps to fine tune your af to pin point. Achieving this in the viewfinder we know is very hard with the k5, and actually very hard on he k5's lcd anyway
11-17-2015, 02:56 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mattox Quote

With these setting I found even with a variety of lenses the k5 fell back considerably against the Nikon 800's and canon FF. Especially in DR and camera sharpness.
Your K-5 is old and still has an AA filter.

You could have shown them pixel shift on the K-3 II (ePhotozine's 2015 best APS-C body) or killed them with a 645Z.
11-17-2015, 03:07 AM   #7
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"We couldn't find the mirror up function on the k5 though. Very strange. "

Have you found how to use an IR remote, the remote timer or bracketing, or multiple shots instead of single? It's accessed in the same way by pressing the top four way button.

Download the instructions if you don't have the hard copy book.

11-17-2015, 04:24 AM   #8
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Just FYI, noise and contrast settings only apply to JPEG's, so if you're shooting only RAW you don't need to worry about it.

Also, if you're on a tripod and using any kind of delayed release, Shake Reduction is automatically turned off...at least on my K-30.
11-17-2015, 04:53 AM   #9
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As already pointed out the K5 does have mirror up function.
Kind of strange that you managed to use a remote control but didn’t find the mirror up function as they are found in same menu. Anyhow, the fact that you didn’t use it may very well be the reason that your pictures came out less then optimal. It often does make a huge impact on pixel level sharpness.

---------- Post added 11-17-2015 at 12:58 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Your K-5 is old and still has an AA filter.
If you are shooting at low iso the AA filter isn't a problem, it's just a matter of a little extra sharpening. At high iso the extra sharpening needed may be a problem as the noise is also affected. But in this case, at iso 80, no problem.

Last edited by Gimbal; 11-17-2015 at 05:00 AM.
11-17-2015, 05:13 AM   #10
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I find I need to look through a viewfinder for balanced composition. Also a tiny rear screen is too coarse to see any detail, you just see the broad strokes. The only way I would use the LCD for composing is with a magnifying viewer like the Swivi.

I actually have one of these. It would be a good way to shoot landscapes, nice big view and a preview of the final result.

Dot Line Swivi Foldable LCD Viewfinder CS-SWIVI/VF3 B&H Photo

If you're using the rear screen to compose, then I disagree with muting colour and contrast and pumping up the screen brightness. The advantage of a screen is the preview, which IMO should be set to give results as close to the final image as possible.

I agree with the suggested aperture settings for a K-5. Of course they would be different for FF or m4/3. Even pixel count matters. A K-3 is sharper at f7 than at f8.

PS If you were using your finger to release the shutter while shooting with a tripod, that would degrade your images.

---------- Post added 2015-11-17 at 07:55 ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Gimbal Quote
If you are shooting at low iso the AA filter isn't a problem, it's just a matter of a little extra sharpening. At high iso the extra sharpening needed may be a problem as the noise is also affected. But in this case, at iso 80, no problem.
You can sharpen K-3 images too. Then of course more pixels = higher resolution.

Last edited by audiobomber; 11-17-2015 at 05:53 AM.
11-17-2015, 06:59 AM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gimbal Quote

If you are shooting at low iso the AA filter isn't a problem, it's just a matter of a little extra sharpening. .
Without the AA filter, the image genuinely has more resolution.

Software 'sharpening' is just increasing local contrast.
11-17-2015, 07:48 AM   #12
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k-5 manual is here:

Support?RICOH IMAGING CANADA

Keep it on your phone or tablet if you have one. Or keep the printed manual nearby. The actual real mirror lock up of the k-5 series (as in one press flips up mirror, second press takes the shot after a wait time of my choosing (done via remote of course)) was for me a big leap over the one included in the 2-sec timer of my older body.

It's not really a surprise that it would fall behind d800's with close comparison and solid technique with both cameras. They just have more real estate. If you're already using optimal or near optimal technique and finding aps-c limiting for what you're doing (eg. huge, detailed prints), then going bigger can make a difference.
11-17-2015, 08:31 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Without the AA filter, the image genuinely has more resolution.
I doubt it. Sure if you compare jpegs straight out of the camera. But if you compare a carefully sharpened raw image at base or low iso I am not so sure there is any resolution difference at all.
11-17-2015, 08:46 AM   #14
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With a solid tripod I get great results using the 2 second delay which turns off SR and puts the mirror up. I have no issues printing 20x30 with my K50 and certainly not with my K3.
11-17-2015, 09:47 AM   #15
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Thanks for the mirror up help guys. I will try it when I get home. As for the questions regarding mute setting and contrast to min fir shooting, yes it only applies to jpeg but at least when shooting in raw you get a live jpeg shot on your lcd with a realistic view of what the raw image is really like

---------- Post added 11-17-15 at 09:48 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by TedW Quote
With a solid tripod I get great results using the 2 second delay which turns off SR and puts the mirror up. I have no issues printing 20x30 with my K50 and certainly not with my K3.
So what you are saying is if you use a 2 second timer mirror up is automatically selected?
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