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11-28-2015, 12:33 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by wkraus Quote
My software (Hugin) begs to differ. That's what it tells my about the project I'm just stitching (but I have to admit that this is exceptional):
Get some real stitching software...

11-28-2015, 12:46 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by boriscleto Quote
Get some real stitching software...
Recommendations?
11-28-2015, 12:51 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Quartermaster James Quote
Recommendations?
Photo stitching software 360 degree Panorama image software - PTGui Stitching Software

Kolor | Autopano - panorama software
11-28-2015, 12:56 PM   #19
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Thanks!

11-28-2015, 02:49 PM - 1 Like   #20
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The pano came out fine:



Early morning view over the Todgha valley, Tinghir, Morocco. 14 vertical shots handheld, K-5 II with SMC-A 2.8/100mm Macro.


Just as PTGui, Hugin is based on Panorama Tools. Did you try it? I think it's pretty powerful.
11-28-2015, 02:52 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by wkraus Quote
Just as PTGui, Hugin is based on Panorama Tools. Did you try it? I think it's pretty powerful.
Yes, I have tried Hugin many times. It never works as well as PTGui. I'm sure if you want to spend a lot of time fiddling with controls you can make it work, but when I stitch I want it to just work.
11-28-2015, 03:21 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by boriscleto Quote
Yes, I have tried Hugin many times. It never works as well as PTGui. I'm sure if you want to spend a lot of time fiddling with controls you can make it work, but when I stitch I want it to just work.
Thanks for the info, I'll try PTGui!

11-29-2015, 06:02 AM   #23
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Tangential thought about a multi-row pano rig: I put mine together (2 panning clamps, a right angle clamp/rail, a sliding clamp, another rail, a nodal slide) because I also wanted a gimbal-type rig for super-tele work. I've even cobbled together a rough equatorial mount for astro work from the same components. And I've used some of it for macro focus stacking. So the stuff can be otherwise useful.
11-29-2015, 06:13 AM   #24
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Except for one or two on a tripod, all of my panos have been hand-held, all have been a single sweep, and all have been horizontal format of the camera. There is dark cut-off of the all corners (=no image there at all) but this can be substantially or entirely corrected by stretching/warping the ends of the image, which brings out more detail and still looks normal if not overdone. Patches of sky can be cloned to fill in upper corners, and sometimes central low regions can be cloned to fill in the low corners (depends on what is there - grass & plants are easy, pavement & buildings are difficult or impossible.). Before investing in a Ninja, I would advise first, try it hand held, and second, IF you use Arca-type clamps, get a rotating clamp. Worry about the lens nodal point last. I use the free "Image Composite Editor" and find it 100% satisfactory. I've never detected an error in the stitching.
11-29-2015, 06:28 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by WPRESTO Quote
Worry about the lens nodal point last.

Thanks to all for sharing your expertise--I think I have things in better perspective (as it were). As with many endeavors, a lot of time and money gets thrown at wringing out that last 10% of performance...for my purposes, just pointing the camera at something interesting is enough of a challenge for now.
11-30-2015, 10:06 PM   #26
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fa35/a7r, probably 10 vertical shots stitched in photoshop, the final tiff was over a gig... a staggering amount of detail... shot off of a monopod, using a bracket that was close to rotating on the nodal point.

i always do vertical stitches, because the sides of a lens is weaker than the top/bottom, so the stitch works better using sharper parts of the image to make the match with.

hand-held works well, using the level indicator to reference the horizon line, and to reference the vertical axis... live view in a dslr lcd, should have a level indicator?
11-30-2015, 10:20 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by osv Quote

i always do vertical stitches, because the sides of a lens is weaker than the top/bottom, so the stitch works better using sharper parts of the image to make the match with.
Wow! Never thought of that before. You just changed how I am going to go about this from now on!
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