[Alex645]

That is a good technique IF you don't have anyone posed in your shot. But with a little practice on Photoshop and the clone stamp tool, I magically found my daughter and her boyfriend alone in Waimea Valley on the North Shore.

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[LensBeginner]

Just get a macro lens, life is much easier.

Aye but has anyone had any success with tip five in the link?

5. DELETE TOURISTS FROM TRAVEL PHOTOS
This little technique makes it EASY to get rid of the tourists in your travel shots!
THIS LITTLE TECHNIQUE MAKES IT EASY TO GET RID OF THE TOURISTS IN YOUR TRAVEL SHOTS! (PHOTO FROM STOCK)

This is an awesome trick for travel photographers. Sometimes you’re at an amazing location, but there are people in the way of your shot. If you want to take a picture of a landmark and people are in your shot, you will likely spend the rest of your adult life cloning people out of the shot unless you try this technique.
Step 1: Set your camera on a tripod.
Step 2: Take a picture about every 10 seconds until you have about 15 shots, depending on how fast people are walking around.
Step 3: Open all the images in Photoshop by going to File > Scripts > Statistics. Choose “median” and select the files you took.
Step 4: Bam! Photoshop finds what is different in the photos and simply removes it! Since the people moved around, it fills the area where someone was standing with part of another photo where no one was there.
UPDATE: The “statistics” script mentioned here is only available in Photoshop Extended or in the Creative Cloud version of Photoshop; however, as someone mentioned in the comments, you can get a somewhat similar effect in recent versions of Photoshop Elements by going to Enhance > Photomerge > Scene Cleaner.

I do that, only by hand.. maybe it's because I don't shoot enough frames for the median function to work properly... but the gist is the same, useful with cars on a road as well!

[JensE]

For me, improvising like this is perfectly valid. Not that I'd do thus regularly to save cost, but imagine you forgot your reversal ring, it doesn't fit the only lens you brought or whatever would cause you to miss that shot of an outstanding small object!

A quick proof on concept using the DA50/1.8, very first macro object that came to mind. The 52mm thread fits within the locking pin circle. Of course it helps to have an aperture ring. On the DA50/1.8, your left forefinger will have to handle the aperture lever while the other fingers hold the lens flush to the mount and your left palm supports the camera. Attached example from the DA50/1.8 hand-held reversed, aperture opened approximately half-way: flowers of some salix variety. Nothing to complain about in terms of quality, no dirt in the camera, roughly same working distance as with a 50mm macro.

Of course, it helps if you actually read the description of the picture:

This photo shows the lens held out from the camera so you can see what’s happening, but you’ll want to hold the lens right against the camera for this to work.

[Arjay Bee]

Ten years ago I used a reversed Super Takumar 50mm 1.4 reversed in front of a canon A70 Powershot. The manual setting on the aperture made handling the lens easy, autofocus worked really well and as we all know the small sensor helped heaps with the depth of field. Left hand holding the lens and the outer edge of the front lens assembly of the canon fitted neatly inside the 49mm filter ring. The system worked so well took years for me to successfully hone macro technique on the DSLR to get the same quality image.

Example:

[boriscleto]

Just get a macro lens, life is much easier.

Aye but has anyone had any success with tip five in the link?

5. DELETE TOURISTS FROM TRAVEL PHOTOS
This little technique makes it EASY to get rid of the tourists in your travel shots!
THIS LITTLE TECHNIQUE MAKES IT EASY TO GET RID OF THE TOURISTS IN YOUR TRAVEL SHOTS! (PHOTO FROM STOCK)

This is an awesome trick for travel photographers. Sometimes you’re at an amazing location, but there are people in the way of your shot. If you want to take a picture of a landmark and people are in your shot, you will likely spend the rest of your adult life cloning people out of the shot unless you try this technique.
Step 1: Set your camera on a tripod.
Step 2: Take a picture about every 10 seconds until you have about 15 shots, depending on how fast people are walking around.
Step 3: Open all the images in Photoshop by going to File > Scripts > Statistics. Choose “median” and select the files you took.
Step 4: Bam! Photoshop finds what is different in the photos and simply removes it! Since the people moved around, it fills the area where someone was standing with part of another photo where no one was there.
UPDATE: The “statistics” script mentioned here is only available in Photoshop Extended or in the Creative Cloud version of Photoshop; however, as someone mentioned in the comments, you can get a somewhat similar effect in recent versions of Photoshop Elements by going to Enhance > Photomerge > Scene Cleaner.

You can do all of that in camera if you have a K-3. Not sure about the K-S2

Pentax K-3 Multi exposure and Interval Composition | Wallace Koopmans Artlog

Pentax K-3 and it’s Multiple Exposure Mode | PhotoSafari

Just set up the camera on a tripod, set the multiple exposure mode to Average, and take a picture every few seconds...

[mattb123]

I've done this with my ME Super and M 50/1.7. While not ideal, it did work!

[BrianR]

If the handheld lens reversing has you cringing about dust etc, then whatever you do DO NOT google "Pringles can extension tube".

You can do all of that in camera if you have a K-3. Not sure about the K-S2

Pentax K-3 Multi exposure and Interval Composition | Wallace Koopmans Artlog

Pentax K-3 and it’s Multiple Exposure Mode | PhotoSafari

Just set up the camera on a tripod, set the multiple exposure mode to Average, and take a picture every few seconds...

That's not quite the same - multi exposure is more like an average/mean blend or a way of mimicing a longer exposure (+ND filter). You need to be simulating (or using) really long exposures this way to make tourists go away without any ghosting.

A median blend can work with as little as three exposures provided your tourists aren't dilly dallying (e.g. one person walking across your frame) and work at normal exposure lengths.

LensBeginner's manual blend would be the best choice for the least amount of needed photos, supplement with an air horn in between photos to keep the crowd moving, resort to Alex645's cloning method for the extremely stubborn.

[boriscleto]

That's not quite the same - multi exposure is more like an average/mean blend or a way of mimicing a longer exposure (+ND filter). You need to be simulating (or using) really long exposures this way to make tourists go away without any ghosting.

A median blend can work with as little as three exposures provided your tourists aren't dilly dallying (e.g. one person walking across your frame) and work at normal exposure lengths.

LensBeginner's manual blend would be the best choice for the least amount of needed photos, supplement with an air horn in between photos to keep the crowd moving, resort to Alex645's cloning method for the extremely stubborn.

It actually requires Interval Composite, not just multi exposure. My bad...

Youtu.be

Youtu.be

[BrianR]

It actually requires Interval Composite, not just multi exposure. My bad...

https://youtu.be/3vKrBLGKmNw

The interval between shots should increase the odds people have moved, but this video illustrates the problem with ghosting. There are several artifacts, for example the woman with the blue scarf leaves a noticeable impression on the base of the statue. Depending on how many frames she was in, this would be taken care of cleanly with a median blend.