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10-02-2016, 02:44 AM - 1 Like   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by lakeshore Quote
Interesting feedback.

I have a K-50. Of the 3 parameters (f-stop, shutter speed and auto-ISO) to which, and in what order, does the software give precedence? For example in Auto mode, does the camera decide which aperture to use and then selects the appropriate speed and ISO? Is there a default order to the selection for the various modes?
That's depending on the chosen program line. Program line is the trade off between shutter, aperture and iso and it's only applicable in P and green auto. You can choose the program line in P mode in the menus and you let the camera pick the program line based on focal length and focus distance when in green auto.

I know the "Normal" program line best. It has an inflection point where the light level corresponds to wide open aperture, lowest auto-ISO and 1/Fl shutter speed. In stronger light, it speeds the shutter and closes the aperture evenly. In lower light, it raises the ISO until it reaches max auto-ISO. As the light wanes even more, it starts to slow the shutter.
On the K-3 there's an additional inflection point for lenses f/2.0 and faster. The K-5 didn't have that.

Program line properties are hard to descrive in words as well as in pictures. If you're genuinely interested, I suggest you experiment yourself. Put the camera in P mode, pick the Normal program line and point it at different light levels to study what it does. I assure you it's completely deterministic and it's possible to understand it well enough to use it to your advantage when appropriate.

Regards,
-Anders.

10-02-2016, 11:09 AM   #17
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Thanks for the feedback Anders. It appears some experimentation is called for. If depth of field or subject motion or light levels are a real concern, the photographer must make the appropriate decision and selection.

On Eric Kim's photography website (erickimphotography.com), he was discussing lessons to be learned from Helmut Newton's work. He included this statement from Helmut Newton,

"For example, in street photography — I like to “set it and forget it” by setting my camera in “P” (program) mode, where the camera automatically chooses the aperture and shutter speed. I set my ISO high (1600–3200) to make sure I get no blur in my photos. I set my camera’s autofocus to the center. And then I just shoot."

Any thoughts on this method?
10-02-2016, 06:37 PM   #18
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I either use P or M. P because it generally works, and when I want something specific, I can always override either shutter speed or aperture and the camera will adjust. M because light is sometimes weird (concerts, indoor sports, manual flash)

About using high iso during day time, I agree that I'd rather (reasonably) increase iso than risk a too-low shutter speed. edit: reading his other posts, my understanding is that EK suggests high iso because he wants to use small apertures for large dof, which makes sense
10-03-2016, 01:35 AM   #19
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My favorite mode is the one that get me the exposure I need for a given situation with as little effort as possible.
So I use most of them but not every one as often. (Don't think I ever use Sv-mode)

10-03-2016, 05:55 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by lakeshore Quote
..
He included this statement from Helmut Newton,

"For example, in street photography — I like to “set it and forget it” by setting my camera in “P” (program) mode, where the camera automatically chooses the aperture and shutter speed. I set my ISO high (1600–3200) to make sure I get no blur in my photos. I set my camera’s autofocus to the center. And then I just shoot."

Any thoughts on this method?
There's a wide range of "street photography". IMO, those settings above trust autofocus too much, and needlessly reduce picture quality keeping ISO so high. A variable aperture means you don't have control of depth of field.

I prefer TAv and manual focus with a moderately wide lens (Ricoh GR is 28mm equivalent). I pre-focus around 2 meters away. f8 for focus depth of field; people look sharp while distant buildings get blurred a bit. Fast shutter speed, around 1/250 to stop motion.

TAv lets the ISO float wherever it needs to go. I do need to watch lighting conditions with this, because bright sun can cause overexposure when ISO hits 100 and can't be reduced. Upping the shutter speed fixes it.

I'm still learning street photography. Those settings above give sharp photos, but my composition and timing need more practice.
10-03-2016, 10:41 AM   #21
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AV 80% of the time. M usually when I am using flash. Been thinking about starting to use TAV in more situations.
10-03-2016, 10:47 AM   #22
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I don't think I've ever used P or Auto with this camera intentionally. Everything else has it's place. I probably use Av more than anything, unless I'm working with a flash in which case I'm usually in M or Av with a bit of negative exposure comp set in. TAv with auto ISO is good for certain situations too.

With Tv or Av, I like having the rear control wheel set up to control ISO so I can use the d-pad to move AF points.

10-03-2016, 12:29 PM   #23
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In order of use -

Manual - I find I get a lot more consistently exposed photographs in manual than I do in any of the other settings. So I use it a LOT. I find that the camera will make lots of small changes in all the other auto exposure settings that can dramatically change how I want the photograph to look. Exposure is such a critical factor when I envision the final result that I don't feel comfortable letting the camera make those adjustments, even small ones, on its own. Another nice feature is that I can lock my exposure in Manual using the AEL button, then make quick adjustments to the aperture or shutter speed with the e-dials while still keeping the same exposure settings.

Program (MTF Priority) - I do use Programmed auto exposure quite a bit, and I typically use it three ways. The first way is to set it to the MTF program. In MTF the camera is programmed to use the lenses aperture settings that fall in its sweet spot, so I am comfortable that I am going to get sharp, clear photographs across the frame. This accounts for probably 90% of my P exposures. For example, the DA 40mm Limited, a favorite lens of mine, gives the sharpest results, with the least vignetting, at f5.6. When using this lens the camera will almost always default to f5.6 when setting exposure. If it moves at all it usually moves up to f8. Try it for yourself and you will see this for yourself. It is a great way to get the best out of your lenses without having to memorize the sweet spots of each one. This is particularly advantageous if you are using a zoom since each focal length could move the sweet spot around a bit. I get great results out of the DA 18-135 WR this way.

Program (Hi-Speed Priority) - Once in awhile I will set to the Hi Speed Programming which defaults to higher shutter speeds. Lately I have been playing with this for some of my sports photography. Historically I have just used Manual, set my aperture and shutter, and took my photographs. I still do that if there is no real change in lighting, such as games that are played during the day, because my exposures stay very consistent. However, during evening games there have been times when I have been so focused on the action that I am not paying attention to the changes in light as the sun goes down. As a result, I am getting underexposed photographs at times. This is also the case occasionally when the game is played under lights. Since the lights don't provide equal lighting across the entire field I can get some photographs that are well exposed, others slightly over, and some under exposed. So far the Speed program settings have been pretty useful for this and I will probably keep using the setting in the evenings.

Hyper Program - I learned to use this back with my PZ1p (and still use it a lot with this camera) because it was very close to working in manual. With Hyper Program I use the Normal Priority Program setting and then fine tune it however I see fit using the front or rear e-dials to change the shutter speed or aperture setting as I see fit. There is an advantage to this over manual if I am going to need to make lots of changes to my exposure during a photography session. In Hyper Program if I change the aperture the shutter will also change to maintain the correct exposure setting.

Aperture or Speed Priority - I rarely ever use these settings any longer because the Program settings are so flexible. If I want a consistently shallow or deep DOF then I just set things to Manual. Now days I am more likely to move set the Shallow DOF Programming line (Portraits) or the Deep DOF Programming line (Macro) and just shoot in Program Mode.

I can't remember ever using auto ISO nor the SV program setting. I adjust the ISO as needed but am more likely to go high than low. Noise rarely concerns me unless it gets way out of hand. In fact, if I intend to convert to black and white, I am learning that more noise is better than less. I like ISO400 because it seems to give me better leeway to go up or down inn post processing but I am also using ISO 1600 or 3200 quite a bit more frequently as well. I much prefer higher shutter speeds so I can avoid camera shake. I get far sharper photographs this way, regardless of whether Shake Reduction is turned on or off.

Last edited by Pioneer; 10-03-2016 at 12:35 PM.
10-03-2016, 01:23 PM   #24
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Av normally, M when the situation asks for it.
10-03-2016, 01:35 PM   #25
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AUTO for everything (duck)
10-04-2016, 08:25 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by ffking Quote
AUTO for everything (duck)
P Mode stands for Professional, right?

QuoteOriginally posted by Pioneer Quote
Program (MTF Priority) - I do use Programmed auto exposure quite a bit, and I typically use it three ways. The first way is to set it to the MTF program. In MTF the camera is programmed to use the lenses aperture settings that fall in its sweet spot, so I am comfortable that I am going to get sharp, clear photographs across the frame. This accounts for probably 90% of my P exposures. For example, the DA 40mm Limited, a favorite lens of mine, gives the sharpest results, with the least vignetting, at f5.6. When using this lens the camera will almost always default to f5.6 when setting exposure. If it moves at all it usually moves up to f8. Try it for yourself and you will see this for yourself. It is a great way to get the best out of your lenses without having to memorize the sweet spots of each one. This is particularly advantageous if you are using a zoom since each focal length could move the sweet spot around a bit. I get great results out of the DA 18-135 WR this way.
I find the idea of this mode really compelling, but I've never had a camera that's supported it.
10-05-2016, 02:06 PM   #27
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I'm in the "M" camp..having "full control" of the 3 most important settings (aperature, iso & f/stop) is what makes a capture more than just a "snap shot"...
10-06-2016, 05:58 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by pixelsaurus Quote
Definitely P for Professional.
This.
It is basically all of the above modes in one.
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