Originally posted by pjv Morning, The rotator that PJV suggested will work quite well. However, depending on what you want to actually do, it may only be a partial solution. Another company FanoTech has an entire line of complete solutions - the Nodal Ninja line of both pano heads and rotators.
Here is just a selection of rotators - Please note that these rotators are setup to accept the pano head to sit on top of them - hence the hole configurations, as opposed to the Manfrotto rotator that has a bolt stem ready to accept a ball head or whatever.
FanoTech has a 16 stop rotator, and 8 stop a couple of others.
Here is a pano head, without the rotator. It will require something to sit on top of (for example the rotator above). On the horizontal bar it has the nubs that align with the hole arrangement on the rotator above, so that when you rotate the whole assembly, nothing slips.
Here is a pano head and rotator combination - The first item the NN3 MKII RD16-II Advanced Rotator (F3505) - does everything. The head that provides vertical or elevation control along with the rotator that will provide a selectable azimuth or bearing control. I have this set, along with a K5IIs and it works perfectly well.
So, how do you keep from breaking the piggy bank? Fanotech has a forum that has a classified area for selling used items. The Nodal Ninja 3 (NN3) is the base unit that you would be interested in. The NN4 and above handle larger camera bodies and longer lenses. That is the base difference across the various models.
Acratech and RRS have somewhat similar offerings - however both of them lack the rotator base that provides the fixed angular movement. Sunwayfoto has a line of gear - and they have a rotator too, with a better price. However, if you what the rest of the assembly, you need to piece part it together if you want a full solution. Note that it is designed with the bolt, to take a ballhead.
______________________________
OK, the way I use the stuff to shoot the MW, is with a K5IIs and a Sigma 18-35/1.8. I tend to do about 6 frames across at a little over 20 degree movements (since the 18-35 is 44 degrees wide vertical). I also usually shoot the sky with a 30 degree elevation, then shoot a row at 0 degrees then composite the two rows together after stitching them. I'v used the NN3 now for about 7 years and it works very well.
Here is a single row MW pano that was a test as I was hiking out one morning - after the MW had risen too high. I have others that I am awaiting the release of Affinity Photo to both stitch, layer and composite together in 16 bit color (which should be released in a couple of weeks now - then I can finish the image).
______________________________
I ran across a pretty good review of quite a number of heads / features and price points. For just some mechanical structural elements, you can go broke with this stuff pretty easily.
Hope that helps....
Last edited by interested_observer; 10-10-2016 at 04:44 AM.