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12-26-2016, 04:34 AM   #1
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Holy Grail Timelapse Higher Shutter Speed

Hello.

I have a Pentax K1 which I am trying to do a timelapse with.

My goal is to get a full sunset to milky way to sunrise shot.

I have seen some people use a sony A7 in AV (f2.8 to f4) mode with Auto ISO to achieve this.

I have attempted to do the same with my Pentax K1 just from sunset to night. However I have noticed that even though my auto ISO is set to slow the camera still prioritises higher ISO over higher shutter speed. As a result my night shots end up having about ISO3200 at f4 and at 0.3 seconds. I would like to the camera to drop the ISO to around 800-1600 and do a higher shutter speed of even 20-30 seconds to capture the stars/milky way.

Is this possible at all?

12-26-2016, 06:03 AM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by johns Quote
Hello.

I have a Pentax K1 which I am trying to do a timelapse with.

My goal is to get a full sunset to milky way to sunrise shot.

I have seen some people use a sony A7 in AV (f2.8 to f4) mode with Auto ISO to achieve this.

I have attempted to do the same with my Pentax K1 just from sunset to night. However I have noticed that even though my auto ISO is set to slow the camera still prioritises higher ISO over higher shutter speed. As a result my night shots end up having about ISO3200 at f4 and at 0.3 seconds. I would like to the camera to drop the ISO to around 800-1600 and do a higher shutter speed of even 20-30 seconds to capture the stars/milky way.

Is this possible at all?
Sorry I meant slower shutter speed. Don't think I can change the post title...
12-26-2016, 06:49 AM   #3
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You can change the range of acceptable "ISO AUTO Setting" values (Camera menu #1 item #5) to prevent the camera ever picking anything higher than ISO 800 or whatever.
12-26-2016, 07:03 AM - 1 Like   #4
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The Pentax cameras are missing the MINDREAD.exe function

Seriously, though the camera is programmed to attempt with auto settings to achieve a hand held exposure. It has no idea what you are attempting here.

12-26-2016, 07:21 AM   #5
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You could set up interval stills instead and manually merge them into a time lapse after.
12-26-2016, 07:34 AM   #6
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Put camera in AV mod, lock auto-iso to a max value (like 400), the camera will have no other choice but change the shutter speed to have correct exposure.

---------- Post added 26th Dec 2016 at 03:36 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by johns Quote
Sorry I meant slower shutter speed. Don't think I can change the post title...
Press "edit" on the right bottom / than click on advance editing (botom right) / above your message is the title that you can change.
12-26-2016, 01:37 PM   #7
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You can also set the Auto ISO Parameters to "slow" (Camera 1 menu, item 5, 3rd sub-item). This makes the camera reluctant to increase ISO. However, certainly set your max ISO to 800 or whatever you want as well, as mentioned above.
12-26-2016, 08:03 PM   #8
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I believe that all the suggestions so far, would help play a part in capturing such an extreme time lapse, however there is more to it. I've been interested in this - but so far have never attempted it. Having said that, I have run across a number of articles/websites that have addressed approaches and problems. Capturing the images is but one step (and the capture needs to be done with an eye towards the planned post processing). There is also post processing along with blending the sequences. Also, for day to night to day - I doubt that you can actually capture the entire sequence with out some manual intervention along the way. After it gets dark enough, the light meter will really not sufficiently register in order to allow the camera to automagically make the necessary adjustments to the proper settings for the Milky Way.

Here are some links that I think address the problem pretty well....also, the posted comments in the links (and their references) have some valuable insights, too..The other aspect is seasonal timing. To get a nice sequence of the sunset, darkness, the rise and travel of the Milky Way across the sky and its setting followed by the sunrise, would put the shooting sometime in the summer. However, at that time of the year, the sun rise and setting angles are pretty far apart, so to capture everything in a single frame you would need an extremely wide lens, or move the lens across the night so that it would be setup to capture the sunrise. For example, on June 21 the longest day of the year, the sun rises at a bearing of 64 degrees and sets at 295 or a range of 230 degrees. A fisheye will not even capture that range across the entire sequence without rotating the camera. If you wait till later in the year (or earlier) you are down to just 180 degrees - still too wide for a rectilinear lens. My 8-16 (~115 degree field of view) lens is really a tad too slow for a good MW capture, so finding a good wide f2.8 aperture lens (with little to no coma) - which have been coming to market would be a good acquisition.

Also, even with a battery grip, I don't think that the K1 could make an entire night's worth of shots.

I don't think that its a nice simple straight forward process.

Just some thoughts ...

12-27-2016, 04:28 PM   #9
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Thank you everybody for their reply. I figured that perhaps the only way to do it is to change it manually and fix it all up in LRTimelapse to make a smooth transition since I'll be shooting in RAW anyways.

Now has anybody had any experience with TriggerTrap (Triggertrap Mobile Kit MD3-E3 for Canon, Samsung, Hasselblad and other | Triggertrap) for timelapse?

Thank you in advance.
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