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07-16-2017, 01:26 PM - 3 Likes   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by wgosma Quote
Correct, 'average' composite mode....the only one I've tested. From what I've read this mode seems the more desirable to emulate 'long exposure'.
I've been having fun with the bright setting. Good for light trails and 'painting' in subjects with off camera lighting. The overlay of images with live view makes it so you can frame things into a capture that would otherwise not be there. For instance I saw some 3 shot composites with the first shot being a long exposure of a dark outdoor scene, the second a flash gun was used to highlight a person posing into the shot and for the third a telephoto lens was used to add the moon (wayyyyy larger than it would have been otherwise) into the image.

07-17-2017, 10:45 AM - 1 Like   #17
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"Average" is usually the best option.

"Additive" can be useful in extremely high-DR cases. If a waterfall, fountain, or rushing water has dynamic sunlit specular highlights that clip (i.e., they are bright saturated white), then the "average" option will render the blown highlights them as weird uniform-gray balls. Using a darker exposure (faster shutter, tighter aperture, and/or lower ISO) with "additive"

"Bright" works for astro and light painting. It might also work with fireworks. The results with normal scenes can be extremely amusing, A pedestrian with a yellow shirt and dark pants becomes a floating torso until they "disappear" if they pass in front of a white car. Or if a person's face is half lit and half shadow, then the shadowed area might be replaced by the background.

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