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12-18-2017, 06:39 PM - 1 Like   #16
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Thanks, again for your comments. I agree that darker would have emphasized the lights and added some halo magic. Given the importance of the shot to my client, my emphasis on getting their faces, and the fact that the setup was new to me, I did it a little earlier in the evening than maybe ideal for the lights. Better safe than sorry, right?

I do wonder about some artificial backlighting next time, though!

12-18-2017, 06:48 PM   #17
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I stick by what I posted. You need longer exposure so the lights can reach the sensor in your camera and a bit of time will let them get brighter as the information reaches the sensors because the lights are dull it will take longer to brighten them. and remember the spot meter and I was fortunate enough to learn with film. With the digital cameras you need to know the old stuff to get around the new stuff to do a creative shot. Your also too bright at 400 so 800 will be twice as bad you can do it in the light you have but you need to stop down your speed and shutter and iso and remember the settings you got from your meter would have been 2-3 stops too high as it was a patterned reading not a spot reading.

on dusk 125s 11f 100iso will also get you close to your shot you want the low iso to get the darker background and you background is fine as its not in the depth of field and looks like a nice backdrop the fact your subjects are in focus and the background isn't is all the boarder you need to lift them off the photo a bit. create a 3d look on a 2d canvas.

Last edited by Kombivan; 12-18-2017 at 07:27 PM.
12-19-2017, 12:28 PM   #18
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Try a much darker ambient, MG, cropping to just their heads, hands and shoulders. Use a wide aperture and hang the coloured lights in both the foreground and background out of focus so they're coloured bokeh circles, instead of on their bodies. If you frame tightly you can hide however they're being held in place. Use your Alienbee with a snoot from behind at 45 degrees to light up the rims of their faces.

I know posing wasn't one of your questions, but for me, her hand would be better open than clenched, they shouldn't actually be staring directly at each other, and they can drop their jaws to show a hint of a smile. When the shutter button was pressed, the dude was very stiff and almost recoiling from how close they are, causing a double chin to develop. The angle also means that we see a lot of the white of the girl's eye (this is unflattering), and not much of her iris.

We really have to look through the viewfinder, peer around the frame, and just not press that button when we see this.

The guy might have been less rigid in the seconds before or after, or maybe the pose itself had to be modified so they weren't almost in confrontation!

I think it's great that you're going to all the trouble of this lighting setup to make a beautiful picture, so make sure their expressions do justice to your efforts.

Last edited by clackers; 12-19-2017 at 03:51 PM.
12-20-2017, 06:23 AM   #19
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Some good tips in there clackers.

Was just thinking about the spot metering if you meter their clothing the lights will be brighter and if its darker the sky etc you won't over expose the faces.


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