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03-09-2018, 02:13 PM   #1
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Exposure compensation using the film ISO dial

Hi,
I'm looking at a clean inexpensive Miranda MS-1 Super as a second film body. I want one body loaded for color and the other for B+W.

It lacks an exposure compensation dial, and it occurred to me that for a shot requiring it, I could adjust the ISO dial to achieve the same result.

Is that just too easy? would I run to some form of exposure problem?

This is pushing or pulling the film for just the one shot as I understand it.

I see a risk in not returning the dial to box speed, so care is needed.

Any thoughts?

03-09-2018, 02:23 PM - 1 Like   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kevin B123 Quote
Any thoughts?
On most traditional film cameras, the ISO(ASA) dial and EC dial attach to the same variable resistor. The approach you suggest is time-honored and works.


Steve
03-09-2018, 02:32 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
On most traditional film cameras, the ISO(ASA) dial and EC dial attach to the same variable resistor. The approach you suggest is time-honored and works.


Steve
Excellent!, thanks for settling that for me, I just didn't want to make a noob mistake and ruin some shots.
03-09-2018, 02:34 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kevin B123 Quote
Hi,
I'm looking at a clean inexpensive Miranda MS-1 Super as a second film body. I want one body loaded for color and the other for B+W.

It lacks an exposure compensation dial, and it occurred to me that for a shot requiring it, I could adjust the ISO dial to achieve the same result.

Is that just too easy? would I run to some form of exposure problem?
Yes, that works equally well. So if you're shoot 400 ISO (ISO/ASA on the Miranda dial) then +1EV would be 200 ISO and +2EV 100 ISO and -1EV would be 800 ISO and -2EV is 1600 ISO.

If you run out of ISO/ASA numbers because of the 25-1600 ISO range of the camera, then just do it manually with your aperture or shutter speed. Everything is whole stops on the lens and shutter speed dial.

If you want 1/3 stops, then each white square/dot between the ISO/ASA numbers is your guide.

03-09-2018, 02:41 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alex645 Quote
Everything is whole stops on the lens and shutter speed dial.
Yes of course, I should realised that.
The MS-1 exposure window just shows under, correct and over without values. So set correctly then use the aperture one or two clicks either way, neat.
Safer than using the ISO dial too.
Thanks.
03-09-2018, 03:45 PM - 1 Like   #6
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You can't push/pull for one frame with roll film. The entire roll will be developed for the push/pull processing. Changing ISO or adding/subtracting a 1/2 stop of aperture etc just moves your middle gray exposure up or down from what the camera's meter would otherwise select. So if the camera meter placed your highlights at Zone VIII, for instance, changing your ISO, say, 1/3 stop will move your highlights up/down a 1/3-stop. Similarly with the shadows. I have a hard time noticing 1/2 stop exposure bracketing with BW film. A 1/3-stop is really hard to tell.

Last edited by tuco; 03-09-2018 at 04:23 PM.
03-09-2018, 06:24 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by tuco Quote
You can't push/pull for one frame with roll film. The entire roll will be developed for the push/pull processing. Changing ISO or adding/subtracting a 1/2 stop of aperture etc just moves your middle gray exposure up or down from what the camera's meter would otherwise select. So if the camera meter placed your highlights at Zone VIII, for instance, changing your ISO, say, 1/3 stop will move your highlights up/down a 1/3-stop. Similarly with the shadows. I have a hard time noticing 1/2 stop exposure bracketing with BW film. A 1/3-stop is really hard to tell.
Yes, excellent point. I thought the OP wanted to exposure bracket or possibly just compensate for a backlit or spot lit situation.

And yes, higher ISO neg films, or a chromogenic one like XP2 has such a large exposure latitude that bracketing must be at least +/-1.5EV or more. However, lower ISO color slides have such a small exposure latitude, I've found 2/3rd stops helpful.
03-10-2018, 07:26 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alex645 Quote
I thought the OP wanted to exposure bracket or possibly just compensate for a backlit or spot lit situation.
Yes, I was concerned with blown highlights as I saw an image on Flickr where the photographer stated he under exposed 2 stops and the image was great:

Gunnar Sutter | Kodak Ektar 100, underexposed by two stops t? | Flickr

so then I started over thinking it. In manual it's a piece of cake.

Thanks Steve/Alex/Tuco.

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