[bt*ist]

Centre-Focus and AF-C (continuous autofocus). I choose Continuous Focus because I tend to be fairly spontaneous in my photography (cars, candids, movie premieres, shots from cars or trains). The thought of missing a shot because the AF-S can't figure out what I want to take a photo of is, to me, worse than having the camera "have a go" and at least make the effort.

I'll go manual focus if I have the time and the subject isn't going anywhere, otherwise AF-C all the way!

[chetan.dighe]

Any experiences with Katz or similar split prism focusing screens?

I also started with manual focus, and was good at it, but with age, have to depend on auto focus. I am exploring the screen change option.

[stgmgr]

PADDY B
"Also, is there an easy way to manually set focus points, maybe using the four-way controller?"

I have a K100D Super, so I'm not familiar with the K10's controls, but I'm retty sure there is something similar........Go into your RECORD MODE menu......look for "swtch dst msr pt"......
From there you can set the focus point a selectable mode, it's the picture with the 11 little dots. Once set, you can quickly move the focus point using the 4 way controller. If you want to take it one step further, you can also configure your OK button to snap the focal point back to the center. This is done via your custom menu.......OK button when shooting.
Good Luck!

[JahJahwarrior]

The red square is a false friend. It is not the focus confirmation indicator. The red square indicates which auto-focus point the camera is using at the moment. The green hexagon at the bottom of the screen is the focus confirmation indicator.

I also only use prime manual focus lenses and since the red square actually does nothing of any value to me I went into the menus and turned it OFF.

I think too many people take the red square as focus confirmation, when it actually turns on before focus is achieved, and then wonder why their manually focused photos are slightly off.

Thank you for the correction! Now that you mention it, back when I was new, I DID use the green hexagon thing to know when I was in focus. Now, I don't think about it, I trust my eyes, so I forgot what I used to watch to know

Just the other night, I was trying to focus on two guys (flatmates of mine) wrestling in a nearly black room, to take those gay looking photos for Facebook which we all love (right?) I just went with what felt right, and about half of the photos came out in decent focus. My larger problem was estimating the aperture with the built in flash which I hardly ever use, I just couldn't take the time to find my nicer flash. After taking a few thousand photos, focusing is just one of those things you don't really think about while you are doing it, you just do it.

Then someone asks how you focus, and it's hard to give an answer

[Mike Cash]

My larger problem was estimating the aperture with the built in flash which I hardly ever use

I believe the built-in flashes have a G.N. of 13 (in meters).

Just estimate how many yards/meters away they are and divide that into 13 for aperture at ISO100. So if they're about 3 yards from you, call it f4 for ISO100. You can then easily adjust for different ISO settings:

200=5.6
400=8
800=11
Etc.

You will end up with either a good exposure or something close enough that you should be able to adjust with only one or two test shots.

[jocko_nc]

I was told once to look closely at the subject's hair. There it is easy to tell optimal focus. Funny, I still do that.

[heliphoto]

I was told once to look closely at the subject's hair. There it is easy to tell optimal focus. Funny, I still do that.

Good advice, but I'm so portrait averse that to use your advice, I'd have to bring a wig with me and put it out on my subject. (actually, I do shoot about a billion shots a month of my baby, so I guess I can use this when he gets a bit more hair;-)

[Malo1961]

Any experiences with Katz or similar split prism focusing screens?

I also started with manual focus, and was good at it, but with age, have to depend on auto focus. I am exploring the screen change option.

Expensive, but worth every $$$. I have the Katz, with Optibrite treatment in my K10D. A joy to use (even with the occasional AF lens.) Once you have decided to bite the bullet, you won't regret it.

[legacyb4]

Okay, that makes total sense. I've started to play around with MF on the K10D and was getting frustrated with photos being off even though the red square was blinking at me.

Will have to give it another go but watch for the green to show.

Cheers.

The red square is a false friend. It is not the focus confirmation indicator. The red square indicates which auto-focus point the camera is using at the moment. The green hexagon at the bottom of the screen is the focus confirmation indicator.

I also only use prime manual focus lenses and since the red square actually does nothing of any value to me I went into the menus and turned it OFF.

I think too many people take the red square as focus confirmation, when it actually turns on before focus is achieved, and then wonder why their manually focused photos are slightly off.

[patrickt]

All of my lenses are auto-focus but after years of trying every possible combination I settled on manual focus after getting the magnifying loupe.

[AVANT]

Half Press - Autofocus
AF button - Disable Autofocus Temporarily / Focus Lock Override

[PDL]

I de-coupled AF from the shutter button. In my opinion the most stupid function ever put on a SLR (came up on it when I bought my SF-1 - really hate that function.

I discovered how to use the OK button on the *istDS and never looked back. (Use the AF button on the K10D and my new K20D) Use the center point (just like the split screen focus on my Fujica SLR's). Same thing - point and I choose what is the focus point is. With Pentax quick shift lenses, if I have to manual focus on the "ground glass" (something I learned how to do with my Exa SLR) then it is there. If the subject is somewhat stationary I can fire off several frames and no hunting - absolutely none. If I need to focus I push the AF button, almost the same as twisting the lens barrel - like in the dark ages. This technique even works in low light - get the focus and shoot for heavens sake - set the camera up to shoot not hunt.

I can not understand why people think that defaults are the best way to do things. They may be the most simple, but it sure is hard to master a major concept if you do not take control.

The Elitist - formerly known as PDL

[thePiRaTE!!]

Interesting question. I'd never given the topic much thought, but there are a lot of ways to go about it after all. I'll keep the 'ok' button reassignment option in mind if I pick up an AF lens for event photography.

Currently, I manual focus exclusively. I sometimes refer to the green hex as confirmation on flat or hyperfocal subject matter (perfect infinity focus is not always at the fully retracted position, this varies by lens). My eyes are usually too busy honing in on an element to focus on to notice the hex for general shooting though. I've switched the beeps and red boxes off, I found myself prone to knee-jerk shutter firings with the beep. My mind can focus on focusing better without the distraction or by being self concious about it beeping in certain environments. Use the force, Luke.

[PDL]

Interesting question. I'd never given the topic much thought, but there are a lot of ways to go about it after all. I'll keep the 'ok' button reassignment option in mind if I pick up an AF lens for event photography.

OK - consider this. When you de-couple AF from the shutter - and - you set the switch on the front of the camera (don't care what the model is) - and - you set either the OK or AF button to confirm focus --- here is the interesting point --- on a manual lens the AF function will still light up the focus confirmation hexagon in the viewfinder. The manual switch on the front of the camera retracts the AF screw but does NOT disable the AF circuits.

Since you are using only manual lenses - using this method you have the benefits of both "Focus Assist" and a reasonable set of DOF scales on the lens. So when you push the AF/OK button, all you engage is the AF circuits - the lens only rotates under your control. I used this technique on my one and only manual lens and it worked well. The nice thing about Pentax lenses with quick shift is that once AF has "locked" I can modify the focus and the camera will not fight me the next time I push the shutter button. When I push the shutter button all the way down it takes the picture - it does not hunt.

For example: I went to the last game of the Mariners (yeah they did not have a good year, but it was a beautiful day) sitting behind third base. As players came around third I wanted to take some shots (using my AF 50-200 and kit lens). With the de-coupled AF function, I was able to use AF to focus on third base - shoot at f 8.0 in AV mode (blurring is not a bad thing to do -- shows action). I had the camera set to take a single frame per shutter depress - most of the time. I managed to get several nice series of sequential shots ---- the camera never hunted because I -- note the I here not the camera -- did not let it. I knew what the DOF was going to be, because I know how to use DOFmaster and other tools to understand how this works. I do not expect or want he camera to make those decisions for me. I am the one in control - not the disembodied engineer in a cube somewhere.

Currently, I manual focus exclusively. I sometimes refer to the green hex as confirmation on flat or hyperfocal subject matter (perfect infinity focus is not always at the fully retracted position, this varies by lens). My eyes are usually too busy honing in on an element to focus on to notice the hex for general shooting though. I've switched the beeps and red boxes off, I found myself prone to knee-jerk shutter firings with the beep. My mind can focus on focusing better without the distraction or by being self concious about it beeping in certain environments. Use the force, Luke.

Two things I did to my K10D and K20D out of the box. De-couple AF from the shutter button and turn off the GD beep. I hate the beep almost as much as AF determined by the camera not the person behind the viewfinder.

Take control when you can- don't rely on the droids.

"These are not the droids you are looking for..." Besides - I am the force.

The Elitist - formerly known as PDL

[kurt]

Mostly center focus (the red dot in middle ). I have not tried other options ...

I use both manual and AF to focus. For MF lenses there is no option, but the nice feature for some lenses is to use both: first AF and then MF or sometimes first MF, to get close to focus and then "hit" the button to make engineers happy. I have found it very useful with 100 mm macro.
It is nice that you can do it in different ways, makes life fun!