Originally posted by CarlJF I would just use matric metering and set exposure compensation at something like -2 and use Av, Tv or TAv mode. If there's no sky in the frame, just set it back to 0. The most convenient is to use Av and set one wheel to control the aperture and the other one to set exposure compensation.
Thank you for the response, but I'm afraid that amount of scrolling I'll need to do on the exposure compensation wheel will depend on how much sky there's in a frame, that adds some cognitive load to an already brain-heavy task! But I will try mapping EC to one of the wheels, sounds interesting!
Originally posted by biz-engineer If the ambient light isn't changing, using full manual mode and metering for the ambient light with ISO set according to sunny 16 rule.
Previously I was shooting only in M with the green button, but I have gone full P because I've f***** up too many shots =)
Originally posted by pschlute The other things I can suggest is to use exposure bracketing which can be combined with EC.
Thank you very much, this is indeed a simple solution, will definitely try it!
Originally posted by UncleVanya I would take a spot meter of the sky - record the exposure info so you know what that is and then take a matrix exposure of the street. How many f/stops are between them? Then shoot with EV at the ready - dial in the EV you think you need based on the sky.
Do you turn on highlight protection? If so that gives you a bit of leeway already that you can play with.
Thank you, will try to play around with EC only, instead of EC + spot metering + AE-L
Originally posted by Adam As it's much easier to recover shadows that highlights, I would just stick to matrix metering and enable highlight correction.
After short googling I can see that highlight correction is just a metadata that is saved along with the RAW and is utilized in the raw converter later a-la curves, it does not modify the RAW data which might be blown out. Correct me if I'm wrong please.
Originally posted by runswithsizzers You are talking about RAW and not JPEGs, right? And when you say the patch of sky is overexposed that means you have tried to recover highlights using a capable RAW editor, but were unsuccessful?
Correct, I'm talking about RGB 255, 255, 255 in some patches of a sky in a raw file.
Originally posted by dms 1. What CarlJF said. Just set the exposure adjustment for the scene as you plan to take it--using average or matrix metering. If the scene has sky set it to -2ev CORRECTION I meant + 2 e.v., or whatever. if not then no adjustment. Look at results as you do it and after a while you will be good at estimating the e.v. adjustment to the exposure.
There's a trick I use to get correct exposure - I've mapped "digital preview" to the preview dial, that shows me the histogram right away. Cumbersome because I don't like looking at the screen, a matter of last resort. /me Looks at mirrorless offerings with histogram in viewfinder...
Originally posted by Andrea K The purpose to expose for the highlights is that in the shadows there is the greatest amount of noise, then "build" shadows from highlights creates a less noisy picture. Obviously this works without burning the highlights.
+1, we lose the whole bit of information per pixel should an image be underexposed by one stop, that one bit is not critical in highlights, but might be a changer in shadows.
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Thank you all for your suggestions, I'll try a couple of things pointed out to me and will be back with results!