Thanks for the info!!!
The first photo was some test shots from earlier and yes the window is very distracting. It is not an image that I sale but one of my son as my model. (He only charges me a beer or two)
I just did some testing today.
Canon 6D (FF) camera @ 15 feet from bowler 50mm lens at 1.8.
I'm now thinking I will not be able to get the background OOF enough with a larger f-stop. And I cant afford more lose of DOF as each bowlers approach varies. Next time out I'm going to try some deferent soft box's to the bowlers left & right (9x36 with & without honey comb grids) this should get the light to falloff in the background and I plan on killing the flash out by the camera.
"I AM A PENTAXIAN" but have found I am not able to use them in this setup
I also own a Canon 6D (FF) as well as a 1D III (1.3 crop factor) that I will be using for this setup. I need to be able to wirelessly transfer photos to my computer instantly for printing. I have tried Pentax flucard as well as the mobi WiFi cards and they do not have a strong enough signal. The 6D WiFi is slightly stronger but still not enough. I have just ordered a "CASE AIR" for WiFi file transferring and it claims of a 150 foot range but it is not Pentax compatible. The camera is mounted on a rig that sets on the gutter cap and is extended over the lane. Once set up I never touch the camera. Shutter is triggered by a Cactus LV5 and flashes by a Cactus V6II.
I set up in deferent bowling centers when they host a bowling event. Sometimes I need to take photos of 20-30 bowlers in 30 min. As well as get the files to my computer & print them. So I'm always trying to fine tune & improve.
Photo below is straight out of camera. I'm now thinking of trying a 85mm on the 1D III with its x1.3 crop factor. This will control the compression better. If you look at this photo the bowling ball needs compressed.
---------- Post added 02-17-19 at 05:38 PM ----------
Originally posted by Wasp For something a little longer, look at the Samyang/Rokinon 85mm f/1.4. I have one and I love it
I am looking at them now😀 how far down do you need to stop it to get good/great E2E sharpness?
As you can see in my second photo using 50mm wide open the sharpness on my son's face is suffering. (Yes I know not all 50mm shot wide open E2E sharpness are the same😁 ) now that I'm going to focus on getting the light to fall of quicker I will not be shooting wide open.
Thanks all Photobill