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03-25-2019, 12:20 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wingincamera Quote
If you have to use a narrow F stop for an increase DOF you might try this method in Photoshop (if you have PS).

The ?Key? to Create Shallow Depth of Field in Photoshop - YouTube
Thanks Wingincamera
The man in the video is CRAZY GOOD. I have watched many of his videos but have not seen this one. I will definitely test drive his technique.

03-25-2019, 04:47 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Photobill Quote
Thanks D1NO
I absolutely hate using LV with client's. I wear glasses myself and to be able to see good enough to focus on the
3" screen I have to pull them up over my eyes or remove them all together. Then manually try to achieve & hold perfect focus. (I do have bi focus lenses but still have a hard time with things that are that close) then replace them for everything else. I know its just me but using a DSLR and holding it like a smart phone makes me feel so unprofessional.
There is no need to use the arms length compact camera stance. With an articulated screen you should hold the camera at waist level for LV. With a fixed LCD you should hold your elbows in at your sides, support the camera with your left hand and look slightly down at the LCD. Glasses work fine,

Perhaps for this specific use case you need a camera with very good eye AF.
03-25-2019, 05:37 AM - 2 Likes   #18
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I have quite a few fast lenses, and I like to shoot them wide open. It might surprise a few folks, but the central CDAF point (on my K-1 Mark II silver at least) is NOT where the camera actually focusses. Aim that point a smidge above what you actually want to be in focus and BOOM! Nirvana.

I have wasted so much time thinking the lens is missing focus, when in fact the camera is directing me to focus on the wrong spot.

More work needs to be done on the other AF points, but I'm quietly hopeful.
03-26-2019, 12:17 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
I have quite a few fast lenses, and I like to shoot them wide open. It might surprise a few folks, but the central CDAF point (on my K-1 Mark II silver at least) is NOT where the camera actually focusses. Aim that point a smidge above what you actually want to be in focus and BOOM! Nirvana.

I have wasted so much time thinking the lens is missing focus, when in fact the camera is directing me to focus on the wrong spot.

More work needs to be done on the other AF points, but I'm quietly hopeful.
Thanks
I have watched a video on that exact thing & how to test for. But I never did any testing. I think I will look up the video again and do some testing tomorrow. 😎

03-26-2019, 07:49 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Photobill Quote
Thanks D1NO
I absolutely hate using LV with client's. I wear glasses myself and to be able to see good enough to focus on the
3" screen I have to pull them up over my eyes or remove them all together. Then manually try to achieve & hold perfect focus. (I do have bi focus lenses but still have a hard time with things that are that close) then replace them for everything else. I know its just me but using a DSLR and holding it like a smart phone makes me feel so unprofessional.
Well, camera on a tripod using Live View with a monitor or tethered to a laptop is pretty professional, Bill!

You can also use a magnified hooded loupe to effectively turn your screen into an EVF.
03-26-2019, 11:48 PM - 1 Like   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by clackers Quote
Well, camera on a tripod using Live View with a monitor or tethered to a laptop is pretty professional, Bill!

You can also use a magnified hooded loupe to effectively turn your screen into an EVF.
Very true I might play around with that

Has anyone ever tried setting the micro adjustment to back focus so you can focus on the tip if the nose and if so, how does it work out?

Thanks for all the comments
Photobill
03-27-2019, 01:47 AM - 1 Like   #22
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I think many of the responders here missed the point of the OP, which is that when the subject wears glasses, auto focus often grabs the frame(or glass) of the glasses rather than the eye, giving soft eyes.

I experience this too, even when stopped down a little, such as f/5.6. I generally am handholding for headshots, so live view focusing is simply not useful. I do find that with my glasses-wearing subjects, I tend to shoot more frames, hoping there will be more in focus.

I plan to try using a polarizer to reduce glare on the glasses as much as possible, hoping that could aid the AF lock on just the pupil.

---------- Post added 03-27-19 at 01:50 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by Sandy Hancock Quote
... It might surprise a few folks, but the central CDAF point (on my K-1 Mark II silver at least) is NOT where the camera actually focusses. .
Sandy, this makes good sense and I will do some testing on the 645Z to see if I can make a similar refinement. thanks!
03-27-2019, 10:56 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikeSF Quote
I think many of the responders here missed the point of the OP, which is that when the subject wears glasses, auto focus often grabs the frame(or glass) of the glasses rather than the eye, giving soft eyes.

I experience this too, even when stopped down a little, such as f/5.6. I generally am handholding for headshots, so live view focusing is simply not useful. I do find that with my glasses-wearing subjects, I tend to shoot more frames, hoping there will be more in focus.

I plan to try using a polarizer to reduce glare on the glasses as much as possible, hoping that could aid the AF lock on just the pupil.

---------- Post added 03-27-19 at 01:50 AM ----------



Sandy, this makes good sense and I will do some testing on the 645Z to see if I can make a similar refinement. thanks!
Thank mikeSF
I'm glad to hear it isn't just me that has encountered this problem 😓
I'm going to also test my focus points to see how close they are.
I have a 70 LTD that I "LOVE" doing portrait work with (even though its not super fast) its focus is dead on with no micro adjusting. I'm going to micro adjust it to back focus and give that a try (I'll just need to remember to turn it back to 0 or deactivate micro adjust when not shooting head shots with it)

Photobill

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