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04-03-2019, 11:06 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by swanlefitte Quote
Follow a monarch around in shade then with a blue wall etc. No time to menu dive and set wb. Hardly time to frame and focus. I was hoping for something faster, that's all. I compose and reframe more often than changing my focus point because it's faster than the controller esp when my controller is toggled to wb.
But you were talking about getting constant WB for shooting a panorama... For a butterfly, just keep the WB to whatever it is, take the shot and balance the colors in processing if needed. For this kind of situation, WB should be the least of your concerns. Again, WB isn't something needing to be perfectly nailed on when taking the shot. Because it can be changed to whatever result is wanted in processing, in or out of camera, without affecting IQ. It's different than focus that absolutely has be right at the time of shooting, or exposure that only can be corrected up to a point while potentially having a negative effect on IQ. As long as the DNG file is available, it's impossible to screw up a shot because the wrong WB setting was used at the time of shooting. At worst, it only means that it will take some time, probably less than a minute, to adjust to WB in reprocessing a new jpg. Which is hardly an issue if the picture is a keeper.

04-03-2019, 11:13 AM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by swanlefitte Quote
I shoot raw and color balance in post
Then it doesn't matter what WB you have set in the camera.
04-03-2019, 12:21 PM   #18
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Basically I wondered if there was a way not to change settings without going into the menu. A quick override while I practice panoramas. Thus learning how the camera implements awb was helpful to be as creative in my options.
Like using manual lenses before I knew about the green button was pretty easy but the green button is much less hassle even though I could get the same shot with a couple seconds more work.
That's it.
I am practicing panoramas but wb changing is distracting with them. If as I am out and find a possible subject to practice I won't worry about changing the settings and put it together as is. I don't plan on keeping my tests. It's just to see how that subject in that environment works with stitching and composition, a button punch would be great but not worth a menu dive. If a test turns out worth keeping I will go back and correct all the raws in a batch but i am not going to do it for 20 batches of 20 photos 1 batch at a time. Loading in acr will take an hour. I can do that or let colorshifts be An annoyance
or menu dive 20 times in 2 hours of shooting. A quick button would save me so thats why i asked if there was one.
Since there is no quick button I choose the colorshift. If I change to jpg because of processing time then I will set my white balance, again which I could avoid if there was a quick button.
If I learn what I am doing and I am shooting handheld panoramas with an expectation of getting a photo not a test shot, it won't matter to me because batch processing will be the norm.
I have a specific purpose and I want the most reasonable way to my preferences and purpose. Normally I chase the butterflys in awb happily as long as I haven't changed the settings.
04-03-2019, 01:20 PM - 1 Like   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by swanlefitte Quote
Basically I wondered if there was a way not to change settings without going into the menu. A quick override while I practice panoramas. Thus learning how the camera implements awb was helpful to be as creative in my options.
Like using manual lenses before I knew about the green button was pretty easy but the green button is much less hassle even though I could get the same shot with a couple seconds more work.
That's it.
I am practicing panoramas but wb changing is distracting with them. If as I am out and find a possible subject to practice I won't worry about changing the settings and put it together as is. I don't plan on keeping my tests. It's just to see how that subject in that environment works with stitching and composition, a button punch would be great but not worth a menu dive. If a test turns out worth keeping I will go back and correct all the raws in a batch but i am not going to do it for 20 batches of 20 photos 1 batch at a time. Loading in acr will take an hour. I can do that or let colorshifts be An annoyance
or menu dive 20 times in 2 hours of shooting. A quick button would save me so thats why i asked if there was one.
Since there is no quick button I choose the colorshift. If I change to jpg because of processing time then I will set my white balance, again which I could avoid if there was a quick button.
If I learn what I am doing and I am shooting handheld panoramas with an expectation of getting a photo not a test shot, it won't matter to me because batch processing will be the norm.
I have a specific purpose and I want the most reasonable way to my preferences and purpose. Normally I chase the butterflys in awb happily as long as I haven't changed the settings.
I understand the idea of a one button press, but it can't be done because WB isn't a on/off thing. You still have to tell the camera what WB you want to use if AWB isn't wanted. And this why it works like it is right now, pressing the WB button and then select the desired WB. It's similar to setting the ISO: you have to select the value (or auto) after pressing the button. The camera can't guess exactly what value you want to use nor can it guess that you want to shoot a butterfly and then a panorama for the next 20 shots and then back... Either it's set in auto mode (camera guessing) or in manual mode (what you want exactly), but it can't be both at the same time (hoping the camera will guess exactly what you want in and between shots).


Outside of this, the nearest thing to a one button would be to register User modes for panorama and butterflies. Then, you only have to turn the dial one notch between U1 and U2 to switch between the two sets of settings. Which is as fast if not faster than a button. For example, you can register AF.C, AWB, autoexposure and bright on U1 for butterflies and MF, manual exposure , daylight WB and landscape profile on U2 for panorama. Sure, some work has to be done beforehand to register the two modes but when it's done it allows to quickly switch between the two types of shooting.

04-03-2019, 01:27 PM   #20
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Yep the kp has the dial for iso, I have to menu dive. Would be cool to have a Kelvin dail but.....
04-03-2019, 02:41 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by swanlefitte Quote
I am going to reset my settings now. I forgot. I forget iOS settings I forget to switch back to manual and I forget to drop 2 second delay all the time.
When I wait 10 minutes for a butterfly to land and miss my 1 shot it's not fun.
Any change is a major chance I miss a shot so I am against doing it.
I shoot raw and color balance in post . I have grey cards and color checkers I rarely use. Awb gets me close so I use it.
Follow a monarch around in shade then with a blue wall etc. No time to menu dive and set wb. Hardly time to frame and focus. I was hoping for something faster, that's all. I compose and reframe more often than changing my focus point because it's faster than the controller esp when my controller is toggled to wb.
A couple of solutions:

1. Editing the "Memory" settings can prevent some of the lost shots. Setting the camera to forget WB mode when you turn the camera off defaults to AWB. Setting the camera to forget Drive mode when you turn the camera off defaults to single shot. Obviously that has some downside if you like setting the camera to some obscure setting for a prolonged period of time.

2. Creating a User mode setting for panoramas, another for butterflies, and etc. is also another way to quickly reconfigure a bunch of settings without menu diving.
04-03-2019, 03:05 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by swanlefitte Quote
Yep the kp has the dial for iso, I have to menu dive. Would be cool to have a Kelvin dail but.....

You don't have to go into menus to change White Balance. Hit the WB button and use the wheel to scroll quickly through the choices.


But it's irrelevant for a non-panny shot because you shoot in RAW.
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