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11-22-2008, 08:55 PM   #31
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If you're doing static landscapes and want to use slightly wider apertures but still want the dof of f22 or f32, you can always try focus stacking if you're willing to play with post.

11-22-2008, 11:02 PM   #32
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what is focus stacking may i ask?
11-24-2008, 12:44 PM   #33
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Having not read the book I can only assume that Mr. Petersen is not only writing about film, he's writing about beyond 35mm format, where f/22 is about f/8 in 35mm speak.
11-24-2008, 01:22 PM   #34
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Creampuff is right, the book has been written with 35mm in mind. For APS-C cameras you have to convert by substracting one stop. When he says f22, it means f16 for APS-C, f11=f8, f8=f5.6 etc.

I notice that for pure sharpness, the sweet spot is most often between f5.6 and f8 on APS-C. There was an old saying in 35mm "f8 and be there", it should probably now be translated to "f5.6 and be there" for APS-C

People seem to be afraid of getting past f11 because of diffraction. I note on Photozone.de tests that often up to f16 you can still get good results (almost on par with f2.8 in the case of the D-FA 100 macro). f22 start to get really low marks, and anyway on digital, at that aperture you better have an ultraclean sensor because any spot will show up sharply.

11-24-2008, 07:35 PM   #35
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This is interesting. When Bryan Peterson say the "I don't care" aperture is F8 and F11, does he actually mean F5.6 and F8 for APS-C cameras?
11-24-2008, 07:53 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by slomojoe Quote
A 14mm focusing 6 feet away on a K20D has a dof of 1.16 ft-infinity at f22, 1.5 ft-inf at f16, and 1.94 ft-inf at f11. Unless you really need to capture something in that interval 1.2-1.9 feet away from the lens, the dof really makes no difference, and your subject's sharpness is going to be much greater at f 11.

Things are different with a less extreme wide angle. With a 24mm in the same conditions, you'd have dofs of 2.5-infinity and 3-inf at f22 and f16, but limited to 3.5-20.6ft at f11.

Here's a handy calculator: Online Depth of Field Calculator
I would be very careful with using a DOF calculator for that sort of things and there is a couple of reasons for that.

The DOF makrings we see on lenses were IIRC defined by Zeiss for 35mm format and with a 6x4" photo in mind.

Now DOF is not only about aperture, but also about viewing distance and printsize.
Thus in order to make that calculation you need to know your intented output size and and closest viewing distance to make sure that the above actual holds true.

Secondly the above calculation defines a zone where things appers to be in acceptable focus, that is not the same as in focus.

Thus the reason for some people to shoot stopped further down than the standard DOF calculator implies would be necessary is not necessarily because they do not know what they are doing, they just might have different printsizes and viewing distances in mind for their intent output than the standard DOF calculation is based on.
11-25-2008, 04:35 PM   #37
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Focus Stacking

11-25-2008, 04:54 PM   #38
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Thanks for the link er1kksen

I am still interested to know if Bryan Peterson mentioned F8 and F11 as the "I don't care" apertures, shall we actually used F5.6 and F8 since we are using APC-S sensor? Thanks
11-25-2008, 08:44 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by raider Quote
Thanks for the link er1kksen

I am still interested to know if Bryan Peterson mentioned F8 and F11 as the "I don't care" apertures, shall we actually used F5.6 and F8 since we are using APC-S sensor? Thanks
Rather than obsessing over it, go and take some pictures and look at the results.
Books of this sort are, at best, opinion pieces, at worst, well, I can't express that and not get a warning letter....
11-26-2008, 02:27 AM   #40
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Thanks for your input.
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