Request to see some photos with long exposures (> 1sec) in bright daylight

raider · 11-29-2008, 11:16 PM

Hi

I am just learning to use filters and would really like to see some pictures of long exposures done in bright daylight.

I have googled and found some nice pics in flickr and other sources but all the pics seem to be made from canon/nikon cams. Would really like to see how a pentaxian would shoot pictures like this. No need to post the pics in this thread if they are too big or something. A link would be most helpful for me.

Thanks!
raider

Venturi · 11-29-2008, 11:34 PM

Nothing to write home about with this one, was just fartin around, but here's a 2sec exposure of a mountain stream I did with a 4 stop ND @ f/19, 140 ISO.

Mike Cash · 11-30-2008, 12:55 AM

Bright daylight? Like "Sunny 16"? I don't have any that fit that criterion, but it did spur me to calculate what it would take to get a one second exposure.

If using ISO 100 and getting 1/100 at f16, how many stops of light do we have to kill to get to 1 second?

1/100
1/50
1/25
1/12
1/6
1/3
1/1

Those figures are rough, but it shows we have to kill about six stops of light in order to get the shutter speed down that low. So if the lens being used goes down to f22 or f32, that takes care of one stop or two. Adding an ND8 filter will knock off three stops.

So f32 and an ND8 filter will put you in the neighborhood of one second, but probably not quite there. Most of my lenses only go to f16, so I'd be up that slow running creek without a paddle.

raider · 11-30-2008, 01:27 AM

Thanks. Actually i would like to take photos of the sea and river and streams with a shutter speed of 4sec or more, maybe 6 sec or something and i wanted to do this in bright daylight.

Any pics and descriptions of the steps and equipment used for the shot? Many thanks

MPrince · 11-30-2008, 06:01 AM

A "pentaxian" would do the same thing someone with a can*n, nik*n, kod*k, or a holg* would. By using a neutral density filter or, if needed, stacking two or more neutral density filters. Sample pictures from a pentax camera wouldn't look any different from any other light-tight box device (generic term, didn't want to type any more *s---oops, just did).

Venturi posted a sample. Mike laid out the calculation steps for you. Not sure what else you need to know.

Equipment list:
Camera
Tripod
1 or more neutral density filters

Steps:
Affix camera to tripod
If using a Pentax camera with shake reduction, turn shake reduction off
Attach neutral density filter(s) to camera lens
Meter the scene
Set aperture and shutter speed to attain desired exposure
Using 2 second delay or remote shutter cord, activate shutter button

pcarfan · 11-30-2008, 06:01 AM

Originally posted by raider

Thanks. Actually i would like to take photos of the sea and river and streams with a shutter speed of 4sec or more, maybe 6 sec or something and i wanted to do this in bright daylight.

Any pics and descriptions of the steps and equipment used for the shot? Many thanks

I assume you want to get the silky look to the water, right ?, you can use multi-exposure mode (I hope the K100D has this ?). If you don't know how this works, ask.

If youn want he 4 sec. 6 sec exposure for other reasons, please explain.

MRRiley · 11-30-2008, 06:16 AM

K110D, iso200, 4 Sec, DA 18-55mm at f22 and 18mm.

2 stacked circular polarizers to control the full afternoon sunlight and allow the long shutter speed.
Stacking polarizers like this renders some strange color effects so I desaturated and converted to greyscale.

Last edited by MRRiley; 11-30-2008 at 06:23 AM.

Mike Cash · 11-30-2008, 08:35 AM

Originally posted by pcarfan

I assume you want to get the silky look to the water, right ?, you can use multi-exposure mode (I hope the K100D has this ?). If you don't know how this works, ask.

If you want the 4 sec. 6 sec exposure for other reasons, please explain.

I forgot he is using the K100D, with a minimum ISO of 200. That makes about 7 stops he has to kill for one second....and about 9 stops for four seconds. Adorama has the Hoya ND400 (9 stops).

Seriously, though, this sort of scene tends to be in the woods....under a tree canopy....so the "bright sunlight" scenario isn't all that often encountered. Between the trees and a bit of lucky cloud cover that should take care of two or three stops (at least).

**Eaglerapids** · 11-30-2008, 08:37 AM

What is "sun"light?
Today is my fourth day off and I haven't seen this fictitious "sun":-(.

Mike Cash · 11-30-2008, 09:25 AM

Originally posted by Eaglerapids

What is "sun"light?
Today is my fourth day off and I haven't seen this fictitious "sun":-(.

Maybe the Global Warming gang got out an injunction against it?

creampuff · 11-30-2008, 04:14 PM

Actually I can't understand why anyone needs proof for a certain technique. Just go out and experiment. That's the only way to know for certain.

Suzu · 11-30-2008, 04:24 PM

Originally posted by MRRiley

K110D, iso200, 4 Sec, DA 18-55mm at f22 and 18mm.

2 stacked circular polarizers to control the full afternoon sunlight and allow the long shutter speed.
Stacking polarizers like this renders some strange color effects so I desaturated and converted to greyscale.

Nice shot

How's it going? Weren't the Botanical Gardens great!!!!

MRRiley · 11-30-2008, 04:25 PM

I don't believe Raider was asking for proof. He asked for examples and hints on how to do it... Thats what Venturi and I provided. Anyone else care to help?

kristoffon · 11-30-2008, 04:55 PM

Here you go

1 sec exposure using ND400 filter, handheld so it's not very sharp.

Larger size:

Flickr Photo Download: Domingo no Parque / Sunday at the Park

raider · 11-30-2008, 04:57 PM

Thanks MRRiley, Venturi and Kristoffon for the pictures. Appreciated your help.

I am not sure why some will think that I requested "proof" for techniques of shooting long exposures in bright daylight. This is not a troll post and I don't see any need to be agitated because of a simple questions such as this. Please bear in mind that not all photographers in pentaxforum are experienced photographers.

The fact is that I have tried to do so with my cokin filters (i only have the ND2, ND4 and ND8 graduated density filters) and even with stacking all of them and going down to ISO200 and F16 (didn't go to F22 because someone said F16 is the max aperture an APS-C sensor should go and I believe so), I still can't achieve more than 1sec of exposures.

I have the circular polariser but i dont have 2 of them. I seem to observe that when i stack my Hoya circular polarizer on my DA14, even at F16, the pictures are very soft. not sure what i am doing wrong.

I have now checked out the Hoya ND400. The price is not cheap here in Australia. Is there any problems of using the ND400 in conjunction with my cokin graduated density filter? If this filter is really useful, i will get it.

Thanks for all your help.

11-29-2008, 11:16 PM	#1
raider Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Perth, Australia Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,989	Request to see some photos with long exposures (> 1sec) in bright daylight Hi I am just learning to use filters and would really like to see some pictures of long exposures done in bright daylight. I have googled and found some nice pics in flickr and other sources but all the pics seem to be made from canon/nikon cams. Would really like to see how a pentaxian would shoot pictures like this. No need to post the pics in this thread if they are too big or something. A link would be most helpful for me. Thanks! raider

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11-29-2008, 11:34 PM	#2
Venturi Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Tulsa, OK Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,636	Nothing to write home about with this one, was just fartin around, but here's a 2sec exposure of a mountain stream I did with a 4 stop ND @ f/19, 140 ISO.

11-30-2008, 12:55 AM	#3
Mike Cash Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Japan Photos: Gallery Posts: 6,950	Bright daylight? Like "Sunny 16"? I don't have any that fit that criterion, but it did spur me to calculate what it would take to get a one second exposure. If using ISO 100 and getting 1/100 at f16, how many stops of light do we have to kill to get to 1 second? 1/100 1/50 1/25 1/12 1/6 1/3 1/1 Those figures are rough, but it shows we have to kill about six stops of light in order to get the shutter speed down that low. So if the lens being used goes down to f22 or f32, that takes care of one stop or two. Adding an ND8 filter will knock off three stops. So f32 and an ND8 filter will put you in the neighborhood of one second, but probably not quite there. Most of my lenses only go to f16, so I'd be up that slow running creek without a paddle.

11-30-2008, 01:27 AM	#4
raider Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Perth, Australia Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,989 Original Poster	Thanks. Actually i would like to take photos of the sea and river and streams with a shutter speed of 4sec or more, maybe 6 sec or something and i wanted to do this in bright daylight. Any pics and descriptions of the steps and equipment used for the shot? Many thanks

11-30-2008, 06:01 AM	#5
MPrince Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: WV Posts: 1,495	A "pentaxian" would do the same thing someone with a cann, nikn, kodk, or a holg would. By using a neutral density filter or, if needed, stacking two or more neutral density filters. Sample pictures from a pentax camera wouldn't look any different from any other light-tight box device (generic term, didn't want to type any more *s---oops, just did). Venturi posted a sample. Mike laid out the calculation steps for you. Not sure what else you need to know. Equipment list: Camera Tripod 1 or more neutral density filters Steps: Affix camera to tripod If using a Pentax camera with shake reduction, turn shake reduction off Attach neutral density filter(s) to camera lens Meter the scene Set aperture and shutter speed to attain desired exposure Using 2 second delay or remote shutter cord, activate shutter button

11-30-2008, 06:01 AM	#6
pcarfan Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Dayton, Ohio Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,978	Originally posted by raider Thanks. Actually i would like to take photos of the sea and river and streams with a shutter speed of 4sec or more, maybe 6 sec or something and i wanted to do this in bright daylight. Any pics and descriptions of the steps and equipment used for the shot? Many thanks I assume you want to get the silky look to the water, right ?, you can use multi-exposure mode (I hope the K100D has this ?). If you don't know how this works, ask. If youn want he 4 sec. 6 sec exposure for other reasons, please explain.

11-30-2008, 06:16 AM	#7
MRRiley Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sterling, VA, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,275	K110D, iso200, 4 Sec, DA 18-55mm at f22 and 18mm. 2 stacked circular polarizers to control the full afternoon sunlight and allow the long shutter speed. Stacking polarizers like this renders some strange color effects so I desaturated and converted to greyscale. Last edited by MRRiley; 11-30-2008 at 06:23 AM.

11-30-2008, 08:35 AM	#8
Mike Cash Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Japan Photos: Gallery Posts: 6,950	Originally posted by pcarfan I assume you want to get the silky look to the water, right ?, you can use multi-exposure mode (I hope the K100D has this ?). If you don't know how this works, ask. If you want the 4 sec. 6 sec exposure for other reasons, please explain. I forgot he is using the K100D, with a minimum ISO of 200. That makes about 7 stops he has to kill for one second....and about 9 stops for four seconds. Adorama has the Hoya ND400 (9 stops). Seriously, though, this sort of scene tends to be in the woods....under a tree canopy....so the "bright sunlight" scenario isn't all that often encountered. Between the trees and a bit of lucky cloud cover that should take care of two or three stops (at least).

11-30-2008, 08:37 AM	#9
Eaglerapids Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Idaho,USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,619	What is "sun"light? Today is my fourth day off and I haven't seen this fictitious "sun":-(.

11-30-2008, 09:25 AM	#10
Mike Cash Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Japan Photos: Gallery Posts: 6,950	Originally posted by Eaglerapids What is "sun"light? Today is my fourth day off and I haven't seen this fictitious "sun":-(. Maybe the Global Warming gang got out an injunction against it?

11-30-2008, 04:14 PM	#11
creampuff Veteran Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Singapore Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,953	Actually I can't understand why anyone needs proof for a certain technique. Just go out and experiment. That's the only way to know for certain.

11-30-2008, 04:24 PM	#12
Suzu Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Maine Photos: Gallery Posts: 158	Originally posted by MRRiley K110D, iso200, 4 Sec, DA 18-55mm at f22 and 18mm. 2 stacked circular polarizers to control the full afternoon sunlight and allow the long shutter speed. Stacking polarizers like this renders some strange color effects so I desaturated and converted to greyscale. Nice shot How's it going? Weren't the Botanical Gardens great!!!!

11-30-2008, 04:25 PM	#13
MRRiley Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Sterling, VA, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,275	I don't believe Raider was asking for proof. He asked for examples and hints on how to do it... Thats what Venturi and I provided. Anyone else care to help?

11-30-2008, 04:55 PM	#14
kristoffon Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Brazil Posts: 532	Here you go 1 sec exposure using ND400 filter, handheld so it's not very sharp. Larger size: Flickr Photo Download: Domingo no Parque / Sunday at the Park

11-30-2008, 04:57 PM	#15
raider Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Perth, Australia Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,989 Original Poster	Thanks MRRiley, Venturi and Kristoffon for the pictures. Appreciated your help. I am not sure why some will think that I requested "proof" for techniques of shooting long exposures in bright daylight. This is not a troll post and I don't see any need to be agitated because of a simple questions such as this. Please bear in mind that not all photographers in pentaxforum are experienced photographers. The fact is that I have tried to do so with my cokin filters (i only have the ND2, ND4 and ND8 graduated density filters) and even with stacking all of them and going down to ISO200 and F16 (didn't go to F22 because someone said F16 is the max aperture an APS-C sensor should go and I believe so), I still can't achieve more than 1sec of exposures. I have the circular polariser but i dont have 2 of them. I seem to observe that when i stack my Hoya circular polarizer on my DA14, even at F16, the pictures are very soft. not sure what i am doing wrong. I have now checked out the Hoya ND400. The price is not cheap here in Australia. Is there any problems of using the ND400 in conjunction with my cokin graduated density filter? If this filter is really useful, i will get it. Thanks for all your help.