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04-16-2023, 01:29 PM - 1 Like   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
This is also a good demonstration of where the camera meter can get it wrong.

The meter's function is to expose so that what it "sees" is rendered at 18% grey. Matrix metering is more advanced than Centre Weighted, but in this scene would have done no better.

The bulk of the scene is dark interior.so the meter has exposed that for 18% grey which means that your mid tones are over exposed and the highlights are blown.

Under-exposing and bringing out detail in post processing is an option, but the approach I suggest above is best.
The meter didn't actually get it wrong - it wants to make what it's pointed at 18% like you said. To that have been added other modes and ways of cheating - manipulations to boost/drag/beat it to where the user wants it to be. The meter itself is dumb. The learning point is exploring the ways to manipulate it to fit the scene and desired output be it manually over/under exposing, auto over/under with EV compensation, bracketing, using post exposure processing to push/pull parts or recombine from multiple exposures.


A good beginners lesson is to use the spot meter feature and measure the scenes range making note top/middle/bottom and then several series of 5 shot brackets using the various metering modes and evaluating results with the image in the computer/post with what the desire or expectation(s) are. While best done shooting raw, it can still inform shooting in other than.


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Last edited by JohnMc; 04-16-2023 at 01:30 PM. Reason: sp
04-16-2023, 01:32 PM - 1 Like   #17
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You have a lot of good advice, but no settings will take allow you to take a perfect picture in one shot unless it's really overcast outside. I think you did really well. Otherwise get creative and use the light to your advantage.
04-16-2023, 02:18 PM - 2 Likes   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by tabz Quote
I don't have K1 but other Pentax bodies don't lock metering by holding expo button unless you push the dedicated AE-L button.
The cameras will lock metering on a half shutter press if the link AF and AE point option is chosen in the camera menus and AF.S is set. Pressing the AE-L button is required if AF-C is set or the foregoing link option is not set. Just checked this on K-1ii and K-3ii.
04-16-2023, 02:37 PM - 1 Like   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by tabz Quote
I don't have K1 but other Pentax bodies don't lock metering by holding expo button unless you push the dedicated AE-L button.
Seems I have AE-L coupled to focus lock, which is a non default setting...
Without focussing , it is indeed easier with AE-L button....

04-16-2023, 03:16 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by biz-engineer Quote
Possibility without tripod.
Shoot RAW

Set camera to manual mode
Set exposure metering to spot metering
Dial +2 EV of exposure compensation (expose for the highlights).
Align the spot meter on the window (viewfinder), press green button so the camera set exposure parameters
Frame the shot and take the picture.
Pull shadows according to taste when converting the raw to jpeg or tiff.

Other possibility, you come take the picture early morning or late afternoon, or blue hour when outside light is softer and switch on the lights inside the building, but then you may need a tripod, however the picture may look better or much better in color due to complementary colors between tungsten lights inside and blue light outside the buidling.
This would be the best way to do it. You might have to adjust the exposure comp a bit from there to get it exact. You would want the windows just below clipping to give you the best chance of raising the shadows sufficiently while at the same time protecting the highlights.
04-16-2023, 04:23 PM - 1 Like   #21
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I wrote a bunch of words; just do what biz-engineer is suggesting. Shoot RAW, expose for the highlights, fix in post.
04-16-2023, 07:42 PM - 1 Like   #22
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Lots of good info here. Everyone may approach a situation like this differently. Personally, I wouldn’t try a shot like this with only one exposure. My advice would be to find a good photography course to do that will teach you about exposure & how to post process an image like this. Also, buy a good tripod…

04-16-2023, 11:24 PM - 1 Like   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by morepower Quote
How do I control this? If I drop the ISO I can't get a shot without a slower shutter speed to the point a tripod is needed (which I didn't have at the time!).
I would have lowered the ISO while holding your shutter and ƒ-stop the same to increase the DR your camera can store. How low would depend on the point that you start to show the detain in the windows you want to keep. Then pull the details in the shaded areas to the lightness you are looking for. It is the high ISO that is causing you to clip the windows.
04-16-2023, 11:40 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by nicolpa47 Quote
The cameras will lock metering on a half shutter press if the link AF and AE point option is chosen in the camera menus and AF.S is set. Pressing the AE-L button is required if AF-C is set or the foregoing link option is not set. Just checked this on K-1ii and K-3ii.
When I recompose the frame I need to reofcus too. So metering is changed.
04-16-2023, 11:46 PM   #25
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Use back button focus...
04-17-2023, 09:56 AM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by tabz Quote
When I recompose the frame I need to reofcus too. So metering is changed.
That depends upon what in the frame you choose to lock focus and and exposure before you recompose. All I'm saying is that the camera will lock both when the correct options are set. I frequently use this facility as I did with a variant of the technique back in film days.
04-17-2023, 03:28 PM   #27
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Fabulous suggestions, thank you all. I'm sure I'll be back after digesting all the tips!
04-25-2023, 08:28 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by btnapa Quote
Here are my suggested steps:

1. Shoot in RAW format so you can adjust the exposure in post
2. Underexpose by as much as three stops. In the old days we exposure bracketed. Today the sensors are so good (K1 in particular), you can do most of the exposure bracketing adjustments with one photo. For best results exposure bracketing is still the way to go.
3. Use f5.6 or smaller. For scenes like this, I usually shoot at f11
4. Bring a tripod. If you do not have one. Grab a chair or small table or a bar stool and put some soft material, towel or jacket will do and try to finesse the camera to the position to achieve the framing you want. Do manual focus and use the self-timer in the camera to do the final exposure. This way you are not touching the camera and causing it to move.
5. Keep the ISO below 1600 if you can. Ideally around 400 or lower for best noiseless results. There are new AI based noise reduction software (Topaz, DXO, ON1, etc.) that can achieve fantastic results with high ISO images. Photoshop and Lightroom do a decent job but the AI based software are much better.
6. In post (Photoshop, Lightroom or other software), reduce the highlights some more and punch up the shadows. Play with the sliders to achieve a nice balanced exposure.

There are so many variables to making a good image. You have to experiment to find a routine that best suits your needs.

Good luck
Just saw a few videos on bracketing. Thx for the tip!

---------- Post added 04-25-23 at 08:29 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
First off this is a good industrial image even with the windows blown. You have captured detail where it matters.

To answer you question....adjusting exposure compensation will either over or under expose the image from what your cameras meter thinks is correct.You were using Av (aperture priority mode), so dialling in negative compensation will give you either a faster shutter speed or lower ISO (if set to auto), or a combination of both, which will result in a darker image.

Adjusting aperture on its own in Av mode will not affect the actual exposure...it will result in either faster/slower shutter speed or faster/slower ISO (if in Auto), but the exposure will be the same
Good advice, thx!

---------- Post added 04-25-23 at 08:31 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
An image like this is crying out for HDR treatment. High Dynamic Range.

If I was taking the shot I would :

Use a tripod

Take three bracketed shots at 0 -1.5 -3.0 exposure compensation.

Merge them in software.

If you dont have the desire to use computer software, you can use the HDR function in the camera itself....it will do the same thing. But you need a tripod

Here is a rough attempt in photoshop to show what you can achieve.......
Thx! What adjustments did you make?

---------- Post added 04-25-23 at 08:31 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
An image like this is crying out for HDR treatment. High Dynamic Range.

If I was taking the shot I would :

Use a tripod

Take three bracketed shots at 0 -1.5 -3.0 exposure compensation.

Merge them in software.

If you dont have the desire to use computer software, you can use the HDR function in the camera itself....it will do the same thing. But you need a tripod

Here is a rough attempt in photoshop to show what you can achieve.......
Thx! What adjustments did you make?
04-25-2023, 10:27 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by morepower Quote
Thx! What adjustments did you make?
I used a "curves" adjustment layer to darken the image, and used an inverted layer mask so I could paint in exactly where I wanted the adjustments to show, and to what extent.

I probably overdid it with the roof where it has removed a little too much of the detail, but it was a quick attempt to show what could be done.
04-25-2023, 05:13 PM   #30
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That's a classic two picture shot, Morepower, one exposed for the windows, one for the interior, merge in post to taste.
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