[sap09]

Howdy P.Fers, how does 1, stop getting this kind of white BGD,
ive tried numerous ways,

pentax K10, 50-200 D.A lense
settings: speed/350 to 500sec
Manual mode(i tweek the appature)
Focus is centre weighted
I pan most shots
ISO/ 400 up to 1600,depending light on the day

of wich is usually Sun in/Sun out
ive tried TV/AV modes, but they seem to under expose pics
wich means a lot of stuffin around in photoshop(400 +pics a Meet)

Any ideas......CC welcome.....Thank you,,, sap

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[MPrince]

Assuming this was shot on a bright sunny day, this shot is way overexposed.

Exif data show f6.7, shutter speed 1/350 iso 800.

On a bright sunny day shutter speed at iso 800 and f8 should be 1/4000.

If the shooting conditions were more like cloudy-bright light with no shadows, shutter speed at iso 800 and f8 should be 1/1000.

Check out this site for more information on exposure, including a very useful exposure chart.

Ultimate Exposure Computer

[Marc Sabatella]

Right; the problem is that is physically impossible in brightly lit situations like this (with more dynamic range than a camera, printer, or monitor can reproduce) to get a shot in which you retain color in the sky while also your a subject appear bright. You can either get a blue sky and underexposed subject, or a well-exposed subject and an overexposed sky. Although here, you've actually overexposed the subject, too - the while on the bike looks totally blown out. This could probably have been backed off a stop, although you still would have an overexposed sky.

The usual solutions to this type of problem would be to expose for the sky and use fill flash to brighten the subject, or else to simply brightn the subject in PP (using curves or lcoal contrast enhancement). Other possibilities include a filter on the camera to arken the sky while not darkening the rest of the scene too much - either a polarizing filter or a graduated neutral density filter.

[alohadave]

The usual solutions to this type of problem would be to expose for the sky and use fill flash to brighten the subject, or else to simply brightn the subject in PP (using curves or lcoal contrast enhancement). Other possibilities include a filter on the camera to arken the sky while not darkening the rest of the scene too much - either a polarizing filter or a graduated neutral density filter.

Using a flash would have helped as well.

[Lowell Goudge]

although some people suggest using a flash, I would advise against it. Most racing venues warn specifically about not using flash.

when I look at the image I get the impression it is generally over exposed

Nothing can save the sky but I have cut down the middle quite a bit, I think it looks much more natural this way

[alohadave]

although some people suggest using a flash, I would advise against it. Most racing venues warn specifically about not using flash.

I was referring specifically to getting a good exposure. Whether the venue allows flash or not is a separate issue.

[kthung]

What has already been said about fill flash is correct. Since the sky and the main subject are completely exposed differently you need to balance that out with flash. If you are not allowed to use flash, try shooting in RAW, you may have some more flexibility in recovering highlights. Also try placing the sun behind you rather than behind the subject, that way the sun brightly illuminates your subject and the background isnt as bright. And finally, sometimes there's just some times where you won't get the Dynamic Range you want. While sensor technology is improving, the dynamic range of sensors in today's camera is still far from what your eye is capable of seeing.

[cwood]

The biggest problem is that this is not a good picture even if you did have enough Dynamic range to have blue sky. The background is a total mess with trees buildings and tents. You needed to find a different location to shoot or a different angle/lens combo. I personally think that shots from inside the berm are usually pretty lame. Roost from the back wheel gets lost out of frame unless you have the rider really small or almost out of the frame. You also can't get a good feel for how far over the rider has leaned. I prefer a shot from the tangent of the corner - from there you need to make sure your background is suitable without clutter and without blown-out sky if possible. A well lit well exposed rider against a blown-out sky is not the end of the world though if you ask me... the other components are much more critical to the shot.

This shot was flashed (remotely) with a nice background on the tangent of the corner. Had I taken it from the inside of the corner it would have look much like the picture you posted

[Sean Nelson]

Right; the problem is that is physically impossible in brightly lit situations like this to get a shot in which you retain color in the sky while also your a subject appear bright.

It depends on the relative illumination of the sky vs. the subject. If the sun is behind you and hitting the subject, and if the sky in frame is really sky and not clouds, then getting a shot with blue sky wouldn't be that challenging. But in different lighting conditions it can be impossible.

In addition to the flash suggestions, if you really have blue sky in frame and if the portion visible in the frame is at the correct angle from the sun, then a polarizing filter can darken the sky by as much as a stop, which can also help balance it's relative brightness vs. the subject.