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06-19-2009, 03:37 AM   #1
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I want to go slow!!!!

Finally gone digital with a k200 2 weeks ago. Loving all the features and a great camera for my needs.
I used to shoot alot of misty waterfalls and trails with Velvia 50.
The lowest ISO on the k200 is 100 and some other cameras only go down to 200.
Do others here miss going slow or does speed rule?

06-19-2009, 03:47 AM   #2
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I like using slow film when using fast fifty so I can use it close to wide open. Haven't done much waterfall shooting myself. I guess the only alternative to slow ISO in digital is ND / polarizing filter if you don't want to reduce the aperture.
06-19-2009, 04:26 AM   #3
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It is a limitation of the current digital sensors and the only way for longer exposures under broad daylight is closing down the aperture or using ND filters. May be the future brings some improvement here...

Ben
06-19-2009, 01:56 PM   #4
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Yes, it is horrible not being able to use slow shutter speeds on these darned digital cameras.




Pentax K20D
S-M-C Takumar 35/2
ND8 & Linear Polarizer
8 seconds @ f16
ISO 100


(How is it you've been doing long exposures before and don't know about ND filters? That must have been very limiting.)

06-19-2009, 02:43 PM   #5
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Yep, ND filters, small apertures or shoot on cloudy days...





Best of luck and welcome to PF and to digital photography...

Mike
06-19-2009, 02:45 PM   #6
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Its just me wanting my cake and eating it too

I plan to get a ND and a Pol to fit the new lens when coin is avaliable. On the flip side I LOVE not having to grab the tripod whenever things are even slightly overcast.
Does anyone have recomendations on polarizers, is the Hoya Pro worth the extra cost to the Hoya green label?
06-19-2009, 06:06 PM   #7
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My only recommendation on polarizers (especially for this sort of use) is to save some money by going with a linear rather than a circular.

Also save money by buying a filter the size of your largest diameter lens and then use step-up rings to fit it to any smaller lenses.

06-19-2009, 10:02 PM   #8
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The debate, elsewhere:

Filter recommendation - Digital Camera Resource Page Forums
06-19-2009, 11:32 PM   #9
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Bottom line, the Super HMCs are best. Pro1s add little value despite the marketing.
06-20-2009, 12:15 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by GrahamD Quote
I plan to get a ND and a Pol to fit the new lens when coin is avaliable. On the flip side I LOVE not having to grab the tripod whenever things are even slightly overcast.
Does anyone have recomendations on polarizers, is the Hoya Pro worth the extra cost to the Hoya green label?
Avoid the Green Label filters at all. They have a poor single coating and that's bad, especially with the 4 glass-to-air surfaces of a polarizer.

The biggest advantage of the Pro-1 series (over the standard HMCs)is, their really nice mount: quite slim, so usable on wide angles and with a very good grip (for removing!), because of the serrated rim.

Ben
06-28-2009, 03:48 PM   #11
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How about two polarizers?

So I've been thinking about this one.

Try this. Get two identical linear polarizers and put both of them on. When they are perfectly in line you should get the brightest image possible. When they are 90 degrees apart it should be near black. Play with the angle between the two polarizers, with the aperature, iso, and shutter speed that you desire. If anything it would be an interesting experiment.

Comments?
06-28-2009, 08:29 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
My only recommendation on polarizers (especially for this sort of use) is to save some money by going with a linear rather than a circular.
Unless, of course, you have an autofocus camera.
06-28-2009, 08:58 PM   #13
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If you have the K10D or above, you can do multiple exposures. It's great for doing water shots without having to use additional filters.
06-29-2009, 03:12 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by lithos Quote
Unless, of course, you have an autofocus camera.
We had several threads about circular versus linear polarizers during the last 6 months and the general conclusion (based on theory and emphasized by real world trials and useage) was, that the AF system has no problem with linear polarizers, too.

There are only a handful of cameras, which experienced exposure metering problems with linear polarizers (Pentax LX, Olympus OM 2, Nikon F3 for example), because there metering cells were placed behind a secondary, semi-transparent mirror, which itself acts as a polarizer.

So using a linear polarizer with the current line of Pentax DSLRs is no problem at all.

Ben
06-29-2009, 03:15 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by vandamro Quote
So I've been thinking about this one.

Try this. Get two identical linear polarizers and put both of them on. When they are perfectly in line you should get the brightest image possible. When they are 90 degrees apart it should be near black. Play with the angle between the two polarizers, with the aperature, iso, and shutter speed that you desire. If anything it would be an interesting experiment.

Comments?
I have done that in the past with film and it is the same principle that has been widely used for filming, either for professional cinema film or for amateuer Super8 & Co. The reason was to achieve a fading, instead of a hard cut or (when not fully crossed) to achieve a simulated nightime shot. The famous "Holywood Night" effect of old Westerner movies was achieved that way (often with an additional blue filter in front of the camera lens).

Ben
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