I shoot manual most of the time so I just gauge what I think it needs based on experience using either aperature or shutter speed depending on subject matter and effect I want.

[Lowell Goudge]

I find compensation is a function of camera and lens, for example, I need to run +1 on my SMC Tak 35F2 on my *istD, and -1.3 on my sigma 70-200F2.89 plus 2x TC on my K10

I run generally -1/3 stop on my tamron 28-75F2.8 because on both bodies it creeps up in exposure as you stop down,and the 1/3 stop splits the difference.

you need to map out each lens, and how it preforms so that you can know how to set it up,

[zaku]

Using DA16-45 from DL to K20D, seems +0.3 is needed always ..

[Das Boot]

Call me lazy but I use AE-L a lot. I do use EV comp from time to time, but for me it's a lot easier to look through the viewfinder and point to a neutral area lit in a similar way to my subject and tap the button. I guess you could call it "Lazy Man's Zone System". BTW, I use center weight metering all the time.

[audiobomber]

Call me lazy but I use AE-L a lot. I do use EV comp from time to time, but for me it's a lot easier to look through the viewfinder and point to a neutral area lit in a similar way to my subject and tap the button. I guess you could call it "Lazy Man's Zone System". BTW, I use center weight metering all the time.

It occurred to me that this poll is rather narrow. I use EV comp sometimes, but I use spot meter or CW with exposure lock almost as often. If I have time, I'll use all of them on a tricky scene.

[reeftool]

I'm at 0 much of the time but with some lenses I find I need to go +0.3. With the 10-17 Fisheye outdoors I find I need to go -0.3.

[Rense]

With my K20, mainly old, manual glass, and a split screen viewfinder, I have to negatively compensate a lot. So, I voted -0.7, but often it is even more.....