[jimH]

I want to get better at shooting in full manual mode, and I have a couple of questions.

1-Are there some general guidelines to getting a proper exposure? IE - If I'm at 100 ISO, f2.8, my shutter speed should be around ...
2-Are there some 'drills' or that I can run to help me get faster at properly adjusting my settings?

It will take a little time and practice and you will get the feel for it. There is some good advice given in this thread, just play with the camera. That's the nice thing about digital, you can try many different things and you can get instant information about what you have done.

jimH

[Kornbread]

And be sure to compeltely udnerstand how changing one exposure parameter affects the others, and be able to calculate that instantly (eg, two click smaller aperture = two clicks slower shutter speed, and know exactly what those clicks represent).

This is one of those things that should have clicked a long time ago, but just did. Thanks for the tip.

BTW - I guess my gear would be a bit helpful to know. I have a K200D with the kit lens and the 50mm f1.4.

Also, I shoot a lot in Av and Tv mode, and I'm looking to step it up a bit with manual. I understand what aperture, shutter, and ISO are, and how they affect the exposure.

Quick follow up question: Do most of you prefer spot metering, center weight, or multi-pattern metering? I'm sure it depends on the situation, but I just wanted some input.

[Gooshin]

If that is all you are going to do, I agree, but if you are going to then use the light meter to judge the remainder of the scene, it is a way to get the setting for what part you want and confirm the setting for other areas.

it is much harder to do this, in Av mode or any other auto mode because you are going to do a calculation or comparing numbers as opposed to the meter scale centered on the selected exposure.

true,

however lately (particulary with film), i have learned to trust the matrix metering of my cameras. Granted ofcourse that my colour negs have waaay more DR than my K20 sensor..

anyway, a complex scene when viewed through the view finder under matrix metering can be identified when the shutter values start changing drasticly when you start to swirl the camera around slightly, this triggers a though process and simply using the lock exposure button could save you the hassle.

likewise with digital, i have learned that the first shot is almost never correct, but a few +/- EV dialins while in AV and you are set unless your conditons change, or your subject changes drasticly (for instance from a person wearing white, to wearing black)

[Gooshin]

Also, I shoot a lot in Av and Tv mode, and I'm looking to step it up a bit with manual. I understand what aperture, shutter, and ISO are, and how they affect the exposure.

define "steping up", this confuses me, greatly.

[Lowell Goudge]

Quick follow up question: Do most of you prefer spot metering, center weight, or multi-pattern metering? I'm sure it depends on the situation, but I just wanted some input.

I use spot for wildlife and complex lighting scenes, matrix (or center weighted for K and M42 mount lenses) for most other

[Kornbread]

neophytes are fine.

neophytes wanting to be pro in a day need to be given a little shake.

i am more intrested in WHY the OP got the idea that he has to start out with manual mode, when the greatest teaching tool at his disposal is the instant histogram.

Um . . . no where in my original post did I say that I wanted to become a pro in a day. You are making some pretty large assumptions about my skill level (most likely based on my time here at PentaxForums.com).

I've been shooting in Av or Tv almost exclusively for about a year now, and I'm interested in moving up to the next level, and I wanted some advice, and best practices from those more experienced than I am. Last time I checked, asking questions to those with more knowledge is a really efficient way to learn.

Check your assumptions before you make accusations.

[Gooshin]

Um . . . no where in my original post did I say that I wanted to become a pro in a day. You are making some pretty large assumptions about my skill level (most likely based on my time here at PentaxForums.com).

I've been shooting in Av or Tv almost exclusively for about a year now, and I'm interested in moving up to the next level, and I wanted some advice, and best practices from those more experienced than I am. Last time I checked, asking questions to those with more knowledge is a really efficient way to learn.

Check your assumptions before you make accusations.

i'm going to ask for a third time, why are you assuming that going manual is going to "move you to the next level".

[Leaf Fan]

i'm going to ask for a third time, why are you assuming that going manual is going to "move you to the next level".

I agree, I don't see it as "moving to the next level" but I see it as a valuable tool, like knowing that 2+2=4 before you use the calculator, but once you know the fundamental way to do something, using technology is typically a better/faster way to achieve the same end.

[Kornbread]

i'm going to ask for a third time, why are you assuming that going manual is going to "move you to the next level".

Even though this is the first time you have asked this, I will still grace you with a response.

Simple. More control, a better understanding of my camera functions, and a better understanding of proper exposure (in various lighting conditions). As a bonus, I really like to learn new things.

Do you use manual mode? Why?

[Gooshin]

Even though this is the first time you have asked this, I will still grace you with a response.

uno: post #11 "

"i am more intrested in WHY the OP got the idea that he has to start out with manual mode, when the greatest teaching tool at his disposal is the instant histogram.""

dos: post #19

"define "steping up", this confuses me, greatly."

tres: post #22

"i'm going to ask for a third time, why are you assuming that going manual is going to "move you to the next level".


==============================

Simple. More control,

more control over what? in Av and Tv mode, you "control" 2 of the 3 variables, and the third variable is selected for you by the cameras metering system, most often than not giving you proper results

by going into manual, you gain no benefit under normal circumstances, you are just increasing the time effort needed to do the exact same thing (ie, "meter")

a better understanding of my camera functions,.

by going manual you are not going to learn anything about "functions", since you are taking away any automation the camera provides you with, you are in essence "not using any functions"

and a better understanding of proper exposure (in various lighting conditions). As a bonus, I really like to learn new things.

understanding exposure, is a concept that could be learned without ever touching a camera.

applying exposure concepts to derive photographic images, requires the use of a camera, by using 3 variables to caputre said correct exposure

but as i mentioned many times, you have to arrive at that "correct exposure" by use of some sort of light meter, and in modern cameras going into M mode yields no real benefit.

Do you use manual mode? Why?

i use M mode for specific instances of flash photography, however this is mostly due to the flashes fault more so than the camera

and long exposure night shots, where the meter simply cant figure out what to do.

also when i want to brake any photographic conventions and just do something whacky, in which case i need to brake the meter, and going into M mode is the only way.

Also, you need to be in M mode for some old lenses, but thats a different issue all together.

[Kornbread]

I agree, I don't see it as "moving to the next level" but I see it as a valuable tool, like knowing that 2+2=4 before you use the calculator, but once you know the fundamental way to do something, using technology is typically a better/faster way to achieve the same end.

I agree, but knowing how math works and then knowing how to utilize a calculator is more valuable than just knowing how to punch buttons.

[Kornbread]

uno: post #11 "

"i am more intrested in WHY the OP got the idea that he has to start out with manual mode, when the greatest teaching tool at his disposal is the instant histogram.""

dos: post #19

"define "steping up", this confuses me, greatly."

tres: post #22

"i'm going to ask for a third time, why are you assuming that going manual is going to "move you to the next level".

These are 3 entirely different questions, but not a bad try though. However, I do plan on using the histogram more now.

more control over what?

Now you are just trying to be belligerent. Seriously, is there anyone out there that actually thinks you don't get any more control in Manual mode vs the other modes?

Don't the instances below require more control?

i use M mode for specific instances of flash photography, however this is mostly due to the flashes fault more so than the camera

and long exposure night shots, where the meter simply cant figure out what to do.

also when i want to brake any photographic conventions and just do something whacky, in which case i need to brake the meter, and going into M mode is the only way.

Also, you need to be in M mode for some old lenses, but thats a different issue all together.

[Adam]

The best way to learn about exposure is to get a K1000

[Gooshin]

These are 3 entirely different questions, but not a bad try though. However, I do plan on using the histogram more now.

Now you are just trying to be belligerent. Seriously, is there anyone out there that actually thinks you don't get any more control in Manual mode vs the other modes?

Don't the instances below require more control?

sure, but they dont necessarily require more knowledge

and resorting to M mode when your camera just wont listen to you doesnt somehow make you a better photographer.


let me re-iterate

there is exposure, usually its constant, even in difficult shots, and you have 3 variables you can control to do it.

Av mode is superior for most things because it leaves your ISO static, and gives you control over your aperture, you know/see what the depth of field is and where the camera focuses.

what the shutter will be, is determined by the camera,

since you SEE what the shutter will be before the shot is taken, you can already make an assumption "too slow, too fast, just right"

if you switch to manual mode, and override this, you are going to get the wrong exposure, 99% of the time, wrong exposure is bad exposure, atleast before post-processing.



i am also curious of instances where you feel you would need to use manual mode, or where Av or Tv modes have failed on you. Please discuss.

[Gooshin]

The best way to learn about exposure is to get a K1000

and then smash it on the ground