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09-01-2009, 11:22 AM   #16
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Keep in mind that $6.85 price from MPix includes return postage; which does beat Dwayne's price as they add $4.50 for the first roll, $0.50 each additional, for return postage into your final price.


Last edited by Venturi; 09-01-2009 at 11:24 AM. Reason: more info
09-01-2009, 11:35 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady Quote
If you are saying all that comes with film developing at mpix, I don't need nor do I want all that. And the price of a 36 roll is $6.84 in my book way to much money to have it just developed. I get my film developed for $2.19. At Dewayne's, it's $3.99 a roll.

Btw, I don't think the canister caused this because the second roll also returned to a canister was fine.
I guess you get what you pay for....
09-02-2009, 11:16 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by photolady Quote
If you are saying all that comes with film developing at mpix, I don't need nor do I want all that. And the price of a 36 roll is $6.84 in my book way to much money to have it just developed. I get my film developed for $2.19. At Dewayne's, it's $3.99 a roll.

Btw, I don't think the canister caused this because the second roll also returned to a canister was fine.
I understand fully...Yes, $3.00 is what is charged in my area too.
I suppose for those that really don't have a local option, Mail-In could look attractive at a premium.

I only get prints made, and I too have film developed locally. But there is a camera shop in town that is much more than a "Ritz" type shop. They offer what could be the closest thing to a real camera shop for the masses AND the Pro/Am crowd. And their In House Lab is equipped with Photo Hobbyist that care and have the training on the equipment. Cord Camera (Nora Location: Indianapolis Metro Area)
09-02-2009, 02:32 PM   #19
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Leaf fan, just so you know, I paid less than that at Walmart and still got better service than I'm getting from this lab. Even Walgreen's is better.

arbib, I wish we had a camera store here close by. I live in a medium sized town but there isn't any such animal even close to me.

As long as I make sure the assistant manager is there to develop my film, things are fine. I just have to remember not to go down there on the weekend.

09-02-2009, 03:04 PM   #20
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There is a very good chance the film was scratched when it was rolled up. It needs time to "set" after developing and can be soft. It's far better to have it cut and put in the loose envelopes for storage. But they should know better than to handle it with out gloves. That's a rookie/lazy mistake.

Digital doesn't make this any easier. I print more than most would (around 1200 prints a month plus enlargments) and it's been a battle. My local shop just got a new printer that can handle the enlarging I do and I go them to do a "test print" 16x20. It was at least 3 stops underexposed. I talked to them about it and the printer is calibrated to the monitor which isn't calibrated itself. So they check the image on the screen but can't tell acurately what will be printed. I explained that I use a calibrated monitor and they need to as well. Then calibrate the printer to that. Nope I may as well talk to a parking meter. So my stuff goes to Calgary (4000 Kms away) and it's worth the cost of delivery.
09-02-2009, 03:32 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Peter Zack Quote
There is a very good chance the film was scratched when it was rolled up. It needs time to "set" after developing and can be soft. It's far better to have it cut and put in the loose envelopes for storage. But they should know better than to handle it with out gloves. That's a rookie/lazy mistake.

Digital doesn't make this any easier. I print more than most would (around 1200 prints a month plus enlargments) and it's been a battle. My local shop just got a new printer that can handle the enlarging I do and I go them to do a "test print" 16x20. It was at least 3 stops underexposed. I talked to them about it and the printer is calibrated to the monitor which isn't calibrated itself. So they check the image on the screen but can't tell acurately what will be printed. I explained that I use a calibrated monitor and they need to as well. Then calibrate the printer to that. Nope I may as well talk to a parking meter. So my stuff goes to Calgary (4000 Kms away) and it's worth the cost of delivery.
Peter, thanks for the comments. I guess from now on I'll have them sleeved. I just stopped them from doing that because they can only cut them to four frames and my scanner can handle six frames at a time per holder = 12 frames in one scan. Believe it or not but I've gotten wet film back from them too.

Well, you sure print more than I do, but I do my own printing unless I want enlargements bigger than 8x10. I used to have a printer for those also, it was an Epson 1270.

How do you calibrate a monitor? Mine is a Samsung 22" LCD. Though the prints I do, come out just as I expected from my Epson R280 photo printer.
09-02-2009, 03:39 PM   #22
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You can read all about it here: Calibrate your monitor But if you don't do any PP work on a film slide or negative, then this isn't required. But if you edit your scans, then it's needed to be accurate. You can drastically alter the RGB settings of an image in PP work and you might be wildly off from the correct colours, contrast, brightness and a number of other parameters.

09-03-2009, 10:48 AM   #23
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Thanks Peter, I remember reading about this here somewhere on this forum, but could not remember exactly where that was. Anyway, I'll have to wait to calibrate mine because I'm in the process of saving for a digital.

I also think I've found a local lab. It's in a town just north of where I live so it shouldn't be too hard to get my film to them. This is a regular camera shop with inhouse lab. They do slides as well. I'm sure they would do b&w too. I'm going to call them in a bit to see what kind of prices they have for all this film.
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