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09-13-2009, 08:32 PM   #16
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Thank you for all the replies. The photoshop tips will definitely help. This time around I will try to go through with the RAW processing route. The tips regarding the polarizer and 90 degrees to the sun I am aware of, but I am a little confused though.

For example is it always possible to be 90 degrees to the sun? I mean, if for example your composition does not allow for it, what would be the best compromise?

09-14-2009, 10:13 AM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by weaponx525 Quote
Thank you for all the replies. The photoshop tips will definitely help. This time around I will try to go through with the RAW processing route. The tips regarding the polarizer and 90 degrees to the sun I am aware of, but I am a little confused though.

For example is it always possible to be 90 degrees to the sun? I mean, if for example your composition does not allow for it, what would be the best compromise?
To answer your question... No, it isn't always possible to be 90 degrees to the sun, and the only time you are really guaranteed it is mid-day, which is often the worst time of day for lighting, and more importantly lack of shadows, which often flatten images.

The best compromise, is to do your best. When you are not 90 degrees to the sun, the polarizer will still work to some extent unless the sun is directly in front or behind you. It doesn't hurt to try it out anyway. If it isn't going to work, it isn't going to work... You'll know as you try to adjust the polarizer and nothing appears to happen. The in between angles, you'll see some influence of the polarizer, and I often find that some is better than none, especially when cutting down on haze is involved.

The only other suggestion I'd make is that I've found there have been instances where I've gotten a bit too carried away with a polarizer, especially when you are at that 90 degree angle. The result doesn't often look bad when taking the shot or even on the LCD, but I've found plenty of instances where the sky is just too blue to the point where it doesn't look natural. I've learned to cut back a bit or go for a middle ground. This becomes especially helpful when you are using a wide angle lens since the whole shot cannot be at 90 degrees. The results end up being a strong polarized effect on one side of the image and a not polarized effect on the opposite if the field of view is wide enough.

Polarizers are fun to use and they are worth playing with just as you might in bracketing exposures... i.e. try a shot with and without, and then judge the best when you get home. I often do that when shooting items with reflections. I'll often use a polarizer to eliminate reflections but shoot one with the reflection because I've found that the reflection helped the image.
09-14-2009, 11:54 PM   #18
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OT - Thanks for the Ben Hattenbach link, George!
09-15-2009, 12:00 AM   #19
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What emalvick said.

I'll add that you should be careful of the polarizer on your 12-24mm because of it's higher chance of uneven polarization across the frame. (this is where part of the frame sits near the optimum 90deg while the other side of the frame is not)

Also, if you are shooting from a solid tripod, you can composite with and without polarization, depending on the need. I tend to draw a distinction between a "photo" and an "image" - this will lean more towards the "image" side of the spectrum. Not that it's bad! On the contrary.

f.

09-15-2009, 12:34 AM   #20
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Actually, regarding aperture, I've recently been reading, that on APS-C sensor the diffraction starts kicking in after F7.1 whereas on fullframe it's F11, so, If you're after sharpness, go 7,1 or max 8 and make sure everything in the image falls in your focal range.
09-15-2009, 04:12 AM   #21
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I would just echo what was said above. Use a high quality lens, use a stopped down aperture and shoot at a time with good light. Early morning and late afternoon are so much better for producing the "glow" you mentioned in your OP, although the photo doesn't seem to have been taken then.

Sharpness is a different issue. Certainly for landscape photos, I would use a good solid tripod.
09-16-2009, 01:49 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by atiratha Quote
Actually, regarding aperture, I've recently been reading, that on APS-C sensor the diffraction starts kicking in after F7.1 whereas on fullframe it's F11, so, If you're after sharpness, go 7,1 or max 8 and make sure everything in the image falls in your focal range.
Diffraction is dependent on pixel density, not sensor size, so you can't really say that APS size sensors have the issue at a given aperture.

Also, it's not like things get all fuzzy suddenly -- it's a very gradual degradation in the image, and having the additional depth of field might well make up for that small problem.

09-18-2009, 06:35 AM   #23
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The pick referred to was taken with a Canon p&s so I doubt a Polarizer was used and it has been sharpened a tad too much.

I would tend to think of "glow" as the light reflecting off the surface as generally found in a sunny environment especially early mornings & evenings and sometimes a polarizer can be negative in these situations (dialing out that reflective light) - alpine shots are taken at higher altitudes and skies definitely come out more blue.

I think this shot has a "glow" taken early morning



Dylan
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