snow shootin' tips

**dcmsox2004** · 10-29-2009, 08:12 AM

since it's almost november, snow is just around the corner...
i was googling, and found this posting...
found it interesting, informative, and hopefully helpful....
would appreciate feedback from the forum.....
Digital Camera How-To: Shooting Snowy Scenes | CreativePro.com

blu3ness · 10-29-2009, 08:25 AM

thanks for sharing!

**Canada_Rockies** · 10-29-2009, 10:00 AM

There are some good tips in there. I use a slightly different system for exposure, however. I use the camera in manual exposure mode, and set it for +2 stops while metering only the snow. That way I don't have to guess at the ratio between snow and not snow in the scene I am photographing.

Works for me.

Eruditass · 10-29-2009, 10:05 AM

I plan to test My K-x in spot meter mode - how much + EC will make the white I meter just below clipping.

I thought I would more emphasis of polarizers for shooting snow (or any scene with glare)

**Canada_Rockies** · 10-29-2009, 10:06 AM

Originally posted by Eruditass

I plan to test My K-x in spot meter mode - how much + EC will make the white I meter just below clipping.

I thought I would more emphasis of polarizers for shooting snow (or any scene with glare)

Start at +2 as in my post above.

Eruditass · 10-29-2009, 10:09 AM

I've heard its the most consistant way to expose. That and the loss of the focus brackets as my only indication of focus point indication are the only thing keeping me away from a split-image focus screen, whic I really wanted.

**Canada_Rockies** · 10-29-2009, 10:26 AM

Originally posted by Eruditass

I've heard its the most consistant way to expose. That and the loss of the focus brackets as my only indication of focus point indication are the only thing keeping me away from a split-image focus screen, whic I really wanted.

I dislike focusing aids in the middle of my focusing screens, and love grid lines so that my trees are standing straight. I began with a plain matte screen (first Pentax ever built) and used it for some 15 years which certainly helps. All three camera bodies in my signature have matte grid screens in them. I find that trying to line up the two halves of a prism on a moving bird is not as easy as it seems, and, as you say, costs some metering accuracy because of blackouts.

The system for manually focusing with a matte screen is to first make sure that your diopter is exactly correct. If you cannot see the in focus point, you are lost. I use the lines on the screen to set the diopter eyepiece, others use the LEDs.

There are those that rely on the focus indicator at the bottom of the screen (the green hexagon) but I find this is not a good method when there are contrasty things not quite where the focus should be - such as a bird in a tree. The focus indicator will prefer the branches.

The manual focusng method I use is to rock the point of focus back and forth over the subject. The first while you will be going back and forth a lot, but should be able to get it, with practice, down to past one way, back past the other way and return to the focus point. This is with a clear subject in good light, of course. The O-ME53 1.2X eyepiece on my k10 helps quite a bit, but I used my k10 for over a year without it. I got one for a birthday present, and it does make it a bit easier.

code4code5 · 10-29-2009, 03:30 PM

I tried to take a couple shots of the black labs playing in the 14" of fresh snow in the back yard this morning. I also used M mode for an exposure of about +2EV, but the black dogs still came out too dark. I need more practice!

FullertonImages · 10-29-2009, 03:54 PM

Like Canadia said, +2 is more like it. All his pictures of 'correctly' exposed snow still look pretty underexposed. Our eyes are pretty amazig at making things look like we know they should look. If we know it's a picture of snow, our eyes will do there best to ajdust it in our brain to make it look like snow, even if it is in fact pretty gray.

Sew-Classic · 10-29-2009, 04:49 PM

This is very timely- thanks for the link. I live in Ohio, and winter is just around the bend. I'd hate to sit inside for 5 or 6 months, so I plan on getting out into the cold and getting some winter shots.

Question- I have a K-7 which I believe is designed to be fine for cold weather use, but I also have a K2000. Is it safe to take the K2000 out in the cold weather when it's not snowing?

**Canada_Rockies** · 10-29-2009, 05:33 PM

Originally posted by Sew-Classic

This is very timely- thanks for the link. I live in Ohio, and winter is just around the bend. I'd hate to sit inside for 5 or 6 months, so I plan on getting out into the cold and getting some winter shots.

Question- I have a K-7 which I believe is designed to be fine for cold weather use, but I also have a K2000. Is it safe to take the K200 out in the cold weather when it's not snowing?

Or when it is snowing. I have never had a weatherproof camera before the k10d, and have used them in normal precipitation with reasonable care without problems.

For my SF-1 I have a "cold pack" which is a replacement battery holder for the grip that has a 1 metre (3 foot) cord with a 4 AA battery pack on the end. The batteries go in the pocket and the cord comes out the neck hole to the camera. I've used it down to -20 C (-4 F) without problems. Below that temperature the operator freezes up.

If it is too cold, your batteries will give up rather quickly, so take spares and keep them in an inside pocket.

Sew-Classic · 10-29-2009, 07:46 PM

oops...my bad....I did leave out one zero in my last mention of the K2000. damn keyboard....I have the K-7 and the K2000, not the K200D

The K2000 (aka k-m) isn't weatherproof, so I wouldn't take it outside if it were snowing.

The specs on the K-7 said that is is ok for cold conditions, but I'm not sure about the k2000/k-m.

jnorth · 10-30-2009, 11:06 AM

Originally posted by Canada_Rockies

Or when it is snowing. I have never had a weatherproof camera before the k10d, and have used them in normal precipitation with reasonable care without problems.

For my SF-1 I have a "cold pack" which is a replacement battery holder for the grip that has a 1 metre (3 foot) cord with a 4 AA battery pack on the end. The batteries go in the pocket and the cord comes out the neck hole to the camera. I've used it down to -20 C (-4 F) without problems. Below that temperature the operator freezes up.

If it is too cold, your batteries will give up rather quickly, so take spares and keep them in an inside pocket.

With my experience I needed as many batteries as I could muster with my SF-1 in temperate weather let alone cool to colder. That was a power hungry devil. Sorta like putting regular AA's in the earlier digital point N shoots - you'd only get equivalent to 2-3 rolls of film. I'm always greatfull to BC Ferries 'waving' a slow and hideous demise to my SF-1 - It got me the far nicer Z-1p. Do you find your SF-1 is power hungry? I switched to a AA battery door and got better results than with the original battery (?lithium?) it was designed for. Or at least got similar results with significantly less money invested for the power.

**Canada_Rockies** · 10-30-2009, 08:51 PM

Originally posted by jnorth

With my experience I needed as many batteries as I could muster with my SF-1 in temperate weather let alone cool to colder. That was a power hungry devil. Sorta like putting regular AA's in the earlier digital point N shoots - you'd only get equivalent to 2-3 rolls of film. I'm always greatfull to BC Ferries 'waving' a slow and hideous demise to my SF-1 - It got me the far nicer Z-1p. Do you find your SF-1 is power hungry? I switched to a AA battery door and got better results than with the original battery (?lithium?) it was designed for. Or at least got similar results with significantly less money invested for the power.

I don't find mine particularly battery hungry. I use it most of the time with the 2CR5 rather than the cold pack. It might have to do with the particular brand of 2CR5 batteries you have used. I have used the Energizer E2 mostly.

nanok · 10-30-2009, 11:47 PM

Originally posted by Sew-Classic

oops...my bad....I did leave out one zero in my last mention of the K2000. damn keyboard....I have the K-7 and the K2000, not the K200D

The K2000 (aka k-m) isn't weatherproof, so I wouldn't take it outside if it were snowing.

The specs on the K-7 said that is is ok for cold conditions, but I'm not sure about the k2000/k-m.

no, it is not sealed. but don't be so afraid. as albert said above, with reasonable care you can use it. you need to be careful of batteries in the cold (though i used my k100d in the winter above 2k metres, with plain nimh rechargeables, and had absolutely no trouble). i have used a nikon d50 once in heavy snow, at some point i just gave up shaking the snow off of it, it was just pointless; that camera still works fine after several years (and it is not sealed).

most cameras will be decently resilient to fresh water and snow, just use your common sense and don't expose it too much, you'll be fine. most cameras will do fine bellow 0 as well, what pentax changed with the k-7 is that they actually stand behind an official claim that it will work properly down to -10, but trust me, the k20d will too if it's not defective

10-29-2009, 08:12 AM	#1
dcmsox2004 Site Supporter Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: rhode island Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 7,522	snow shootin' tips since it's almost november, snow is just around the corner... i was googling, and found this posting... found it interesting, informative, and hopefully helpful.... would appreciate feedback from the forum..... Digital Camera How-To: Shooting Snowy Scenes \| CreativePro.com

10-29-2009, 04:49 PM	#10
Sew-Classic Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Ohio, USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 238	This is very timely- thanks for the link. I live in Ohio, and winter is just around the bend. I'd hate to sit inside for 5 or 6 months, so I plan on getting out into the cold and getting some winter shots. Question- I have a K-7 which I believe is designed to be fine for cold weather use, but I also have a K2000. Is it safe to take the K2000 out in the cold weather when it's not snowing? Last edited by Sew-Classic; 10-29-2009 at 07:43 PM. Reason: ad a zero

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10-29-2009, 08:25 AM	#2
blu3ness Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Posts: 117	thanks for sharing!

10-29-2009, 10:00 AM	#3
Canada_Rockies Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sparwood, BC, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,385	There are some good tips in there. I use a slightly different system for exposure, however. I use the camera in manual exposure mode, and set it for +2 stops while metering only the snow. That way I don't have to guess at the ratio between snow and not snow in the scene I am photographing. Works for me.

10-29-2009, 10:05 AM	#4
Eruditass Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,207	I plan to test My K-x in spot meter mode - how much + EC will make the white I meter just below clipping. I thought I would more emphasis of polarizers for shooting snow (or any scene with glare)

10-29-2009, 10:06 AM	#5
Canada_Rockies Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sparwood, BC, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,385	Originally posted by Eruditass I plan to test My K-x in spot meter mode - how much + EC will make the white I meter just below clipping. I thought I would more emphasis of polarizers for shooting snow (or any scene with glare) Start at +2 as in my post above.

10-29-2009, 10:09 AM	#6
Eruditass Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,207	I've heard its the most consistant way to expose. That and the loss of the focus brackets as my only indication of focus point indication are the only thing keeping me away from a split-image focus screen, whic I really wanted.

10-29-2009, 10:26 AM	#7
Canada_Rockies Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sparwood, BC, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,385	Originally posted by Eruditass I've heard its the most consistant way to expose. That and the loss of the focus brackets as my only indication of focus point indication are the only thing keeping me away from a split-image focus screen, whic I really wanted. I dislike focusing aids in the middle of my focusing screens, and love grid lines so that my trees are standing straight. I began with a plain matte screen (first Pentax ever built) and used it for some 15 years which certainly helps. All three camera bodies in my signature have matte grid screens in them. I find that trying to line up the two halves of a prism on a moving bird is not as easy as it seems, and, as you say, costs some metering accuracy because of blackouts. The system for manually focusing with a matte screen is to first make sure that your diopter is exactly correct. If you cannot see the in focus point, you are lost. I use the lines on the screen to set the diopter eyepiece, others use the LEDs. There are those that rely on the focus indicator at the bottom of the screen (the green hexagon) but I find this is not a good method when there are contrasty things not quite where the focus should be - such as a bird in a tree. The focus indicator will prefer the branches. The manual focusng method I use is to rock the point of focus back and forth over the subject. The first while you will be going back and forth a lot, but should be able to get it, with practice, down to past one way, back past the other way and return to the focus point. This is with a clear subject in good light, of course. The O-ME53 1.2X eyepiece on my k10 helps quite a bit, but I used my k10 for over a year without it. I got one for a birthday present, and it does make it a bit easier.

10-29-2009, 03:30 PM	#8
code4code5 Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Denver, CO Photos: Gallery Posts: 438	I tried to take a couple shots of the black labs playing in the 14" of fresh snow in the back yard this morning. I also used M mode for an exposure of about +2EV, but the black dogs still came out too dark. I need more practice!

10-29-2009, 03:54 PM	#9
FullertonImages Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Boulder, CO Posts: 883	Like Canadia said, +2 is more like it. All his pictures of 'correctly' exposed snow still look pretty underexposed. Our eyes are pretty amazig at making things look like we know they should look. If we know it's a picture of snow, our eyes will do there best to ajdust it in our brain to make it look like snow, even if it is in fact pretty gray.

10-29-2009, 05:33 PM	#11
Canada_Rockies Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sparwood, BC, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,385	Originally posted by Sew-Classic This is very timely- thanks for the link. I live in Ohio, and winter is just around the bend. I'd hate to sit inside for 5 or 6 months, so I plan on getting out into the cold and getting some winter shots. Question- I have a K-7 which I believe is designed to be fine for cold weather use, but I also have a K2000. Is it safe to take the K200 out in the cold weather when it's not snowing? Or when it is snowing. I have never had a weatherproof camera before the k10d, and have used them in normal precipitation with reasonable care without problems. For my SF-1 I have a "cold pack" which is a replacement battery holder for the grip that has a 1 metre (3 foot) cord with a 4 AA battery pack on the end. The batteries go in the pocket and the cord comes out the neck hole to the camera. I've used it down to -20 C (-4 F) without problems. Below that temperature the operator freezes up. If it is too cold, your batteries will give up rather quickly, so take spares and keep them in an inside pocket.

10-29-2009, 07:46 PM	#12
Sew-Classic Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Ohio, USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 238	oops...my bad....I did leave out one zero in my last mention of the K2000. damn keyboard....I have the K-7 and the K2000, not the K200D The K2000 (aka k-m) isn't weatherproof, so I wouldn't take it outside if it were snowing. The specs on the K-7 said that is is ok for cold conditions, but I'm not sure about the k2000/k-m.

10-30-2009, 11:06 AM	#13
jnorth Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Vancouver BC Posts: 230	Originally posted by Canada_Rockies Or when it is snowing. I have never had a weatherproof camera before the k10d, and have used them in normal precipitation with reasonable care without problems. For my SF-1 I have a "cold pack" which is a replacement battery holder for the grip that has a 1 metre (3 foot) cord with a 4 AA battery pack on the end. The batteries go in the pocket and the cord comes out the neck hole to the camera. I've used it down to -20 C (-4 F) without problems. Below that temperature the operator freezes up. If it is too cold, your batteries will give up rather quickly, so take spares and keep them in an inside pocket. With my experience I needed as many batteries as I could muster with my SF-1 in temperate weather let alone cool to colder. That was a power hungry devil. Sorta like putting regular AA's in the earlier digital point N shoots - you'd only get equivalent to 2-3 rolls of film. I'm always greatfull to BC Ferries 'waving' a slow and hideous demise to my SF-1 - It got me the far nicer Z-1p. Do you find your SF-1 is power hungry? I switched to a AA battery door and got better results than with the original battery (?lithium?) it was designed for. Or at least got similar results with significantly less money invested for the power.

10-30-2009, 08:51 PM	#14
Canada_Rockies Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sparwood, BC, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,385	Originally posted by jnorth With my experience I needed as many batteries as I could muster with my SF-1 in temperate weather let alone cool to colder. That was a power hungry devil. Sorta like putting regular AA's in the earlier digital point N shoots - you'd only get equivalent to 2-3 rolls of film. I'm always greatfull to BC Ferries 'waving' a slow and hideous demise to my SF-1 - It got me the far nicer Z-1p. Do you find your SF-1 is power hungry? I switched to a AA battery door and got better results than with the original battery (?lithium?) it was designed for. Or at least got similar results with significantly less money invested for the power. I don't find mine particularly battery hungry. I use it most of the time with the 2CR5 rather than the cold pack. It might have to do with the particular brand of 2CR5 batteries you have used. I have used the Energizer E2 mostly.

10-30-2009, 11:47 PM	#15
nanok Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Photos: Gallery Posts: 969	Originally posted by Sew-Classic oops...my bad....I did leave out one zero in my last mention of the K2000. damn keyboard....I have the K-7 and the K2000, not the K200D The K2000 (aka k-m) isn't weatherproof, so I wouldn't take it outside if it were snowing. The specs on the K-7 said that is is ok for cold conditions, but I'm not sure about the k2000/k-m. no, it is not sealed. but don't be so afraid. as albert said above, with reasonable care you can use it. you need to be careful of batteries in the cold (though i used my k100d in the winter above 2k metres, with plain nimh rechargeables, and had absolutely no trouble). i have used a nikon d50 once in heavy snow, at some point i just gave up shaking the snow off of it, it was just pointless; that camera still works fine after several years (and it is not sealed). most cameras will be decently resilient to fresh water and snow, just use your common sense and don't expose it too much, you'll be fine. most cameras will do fine bellow 0 as well, what pentax changed with the k-7 is that they actually stand behind an official claim that it will work properly down to -10, but trust me, the k20d will too if it's not defective