[enoeske]

I picked up some used vivitar extension tubes to go with my smc 50mm f/1.4 on my K20D. I usually use my lp120 to light the shots since stopping down to f/16 and using the tubes has quite a bit of light loss.

[WMBP]

I picked up some used vivitar extension tubes to go with my smc 50mm f/1.4 on my K20D.

I like the shots - especially that green thingy.

Could somebody please explain what the extension tube does? I've never used one. Also, if you could provide a product description that would work or perhaps a link to Amazon or B&H, I'd be grateful. I wouldn't even know what to buy (if I felt like buying something).

Thanks,

Will

p.s. My more recent pictures don't look as good here in this forum as they should. Does the forum uploaded degrade them as it uploads them?

[Canada_Rockies]

I like the shots - especially that green thingy.

Could somebody please explain what the extension tube does? I've never used one. Also, if you could provide a product description that would work or perhaps a link to Amazon or B&H, I'd be grateful. I wouldn't even know what to buy (if I felt like buying something).

An extension tube is an empty tube that moves the lens further from the camera. The further from the camera, the closer the lens focuses (check out what your focus ring does - it moves the lens away from the camera). My 100/4 M series macro lens has 50mm of extension built in, so it focuses to 1/2 life size. I have a 50mm tube, and when it is between the lens and the camera, my magnification varies between 1/2 life size on the sensor/film to life size. I have changed the focusing threads to change between 50 and 100mm of extension. Buy a tube with the electrical contacts to maintain all the camera's connections with the lens. I understand the Kenko tubes are quite good. My tube is ancient. I bought it to allow the 400 to focus closer.

Thanks,

Will

p.s. My more recent pictures don't look as good here in this forum as they should. Does the forum uploaded degrade them as it uploads them?

When you export your pictures to the forum, make sure you set the colour space to sRGB, not ProPhoto or Adobe RBG.

[DJEZRAJ]

Hi I will throw my hat in as well as i can not resist a good spider. This spider and friends like to build across windows and in our trees and garden. They do a great job with some of the pests in the garden so I like them there. I alway enjoy how macros take you into their smaller world. No matter how common spiders are their webs continue to amaze me
Taken with K10D with Tamron sp90 Macro with FGZ540

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2545/4063278578_eff93f8d71_o.jpg
Cheers
Roger

[res3567]

Check out this fellow.

He uses a Pentax, too.

Thomas Shahan (and a Salticid) on NBC's The Today Show! on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Cheers...

Damn! He uses the prime lens reverse adapter approach. Another idea worth trying as his pics are AWESOME!

[audiobomber]

I have several questions.

First, what exactly does it mean to put the Tamron 70-300 into macro mode?

Second, is this the wrong lens for this kind of thing?

Third, I have the feeling I'm probably doing everything wrong here. Any suggestions about alternate approaches? For example, should I use flash and stop the lens down even further, say to f/11 or f/16?

Fourth, what should I be going for here? I'm not even clear about that. I seem to have gotten some part of the spider's body - a leg or something like that - in nice sharp focus in some of my shots but depth of field was quite shallow. Should I be happy with that, or should I be trying to increase depth of field so that the whole spider is in focus?

Will

1. As others have said, Macro mode allows the lens to focus closer, for 1:2 macro.

2. The Tamron's 1:2 macro is OK, but getting to at least 1:1 is a lot more fun. I like using a Raynox for casual macros, because it's so easy and imposes no noticeable drop in IQ. Just pop it on or screw it in, and you're set. Unlike reversing rings, a Raynox diopter supports auto-aperture. If I'm going to concentrate on macro shooting, I use the D FA 100mm.

3. & 4. For shooting flowers or going for an artistic image, shallow DOF is nice. If I'm shooting bugs, I try to get the whole insect in focus, but it's not always possible. With the DFA 100 I use like f11-f16. A Raynox loses some DOF, so I use f16-32 and except in direct sunlight I need to add light.

Here's a couple of shots using a Tamron 70-300 and Raynox 250. If you're interested in trying one out, I recommend the Raynox 150 for long lenses like the Tamron. It will go to 1:1 and considerably beyond, has a much better working distance and is easier to handle than the 250. The 250 gives a nice boost to lenses below say 135mm (nice with primes), but working distance is close.

[res3567]

Ok. It warm and sunny down here in Houston. The flowers and bugs thinks it is spring time I guess. A lot of activity in the flowers in front of the house. Grabed one of my cameras, attatched my Tammy 70-300, set for Macro mode, set ISO at 800, set Av to f/16 waited patiently, and here is what I shot:







Had to use MF; AF seems to hunt more with this particular lens especially in Macro mode. I set the lens to maximum macro focus (three feet) and just rocked back and forth to achieve focus. It takes patience but it could be well worth it.

---

Last edited by res3567; 11-05-2009 at 10:44 AM.

[trishytee]

Wow, Will, that is great. I actually have never tried to use a zoom lens on a spider. Mine (see below) were taken very close up with me leaning in and out, and with poor depth of field, so will now try that. Took a shot on Xmas Island of a golden orb spider whose body was purple. There I was with my nose just about on it and the wind nearly blew it into my face; hence a blurred orb (HUMUNGOUS!) and a nervous nelly. (me)
Trish. I shall now go hunting with a longer lens. I think you have done really well, but none in my garden at present.

[24X36NOW]

I'd recommend always using a tripod when shooting macros, since the slightest in/out movement will change your (very critical) focus. I understand the frustration with the breeze, been there! You just have to focus on the spider in the spot where the web settles during pauses in the wind, and be really really patient.

Orb weavers are tough to get the eyes on, since they are generally facing the sky or the ground, and are a bit skittish, as you've observed. The nice part is, if you don't spook them, they tend to sit nice and still for photos.

Find yourself a funnel weaver (much more skittish and fast as lightning), and you can get a nice "looking right at you" shot (just line yourself up with the exit point of the web's funnel). This is where the clear advantage of a longer focal length lens shines, since if you get close to these guys, they'll disappear in a nanosecond. You can try coaxing them out if they're hiding too deep in the funnel by dropping a bug in their web, or simulating such a "meal" by using a little piece of grass or something to tug at the web fibers. You'd better be focused on the critical point though, because if you blink you'll miss the shot!

A ring flash is a beautiful thing too, though mine doesn't work on the dSLRs, one more breakdown in backward compatibility

[jezza323]

macros arent that hard, u just need to be prepared to take lots of shots and only get a few keepers.

this is shot handheld, using K200D with 2x TC and reversed SMC "M" 28mm f2.8 lens on front of the TC, onboard flash used also. Yes this was a live insect, it would have been between 5 and 10mm long, so this is very high magnification. I took about 20 pics over a period of about 15 mins, and had these 2 keepers (slight crops only)





you can find more macros ive done here Picasa Web Albums - Jeremy - Insects. All hand held except if there are any of dead flies there. which i used a tripod for.

[WMBP]

Nice shots, Jeremy. What are those bugs?

Will