Beauty Shoot for "Citizen K" Magazine "How Did I Do It?"

alohadave · 11-27-2009, 12:26 PM

Originally posted by GerryL

I'm guessing he actually used less lights than what you would normally think.
Reflectors would most likely supplement the lesser number of lights.
The hair in particular has a circular highlight which you won't usually get with just a light from above as it would also highlight the upper portion (peak) of the hair.

Look at the reflections and shadows. There are 5 reflections on the hair. 2 from each side, and one overhead.

Reflectors aren't going to give you those hard specular reflections on the hair, and the hard (almost blown out) light on the sides of the face.

For the higher set of lights, they are only giving the hair light that you see at 10 and 2 o'clock.

The hair reflections at the base of her hair are the same ones that are lighting her neck and the sides of her face. You can tell that they are behind her because the light doesn't reach around to her cheeks. You can see the line of shadow (especially on her right cheek, but it is there on both cheeks) that show that the overhead light is lighting the front of her face and the rim lights are lighting the sides. Also, the fact that the light doesn't wrap around indicates that the light is pretty hard/small.

For the front/overhead light, all the hair isn't lit up, because of the angle of the light. If it were more overhead, then you would see the reflection at the peak of the hair. It doesn't need to be a circular or ring light to make that ring shaped reflection in her hair.

Clicker · 11-27-2009, 06:53 PM

2 huge strip lights backlit one off each side and a reflector off the front slightly angled and hair light from directly above and slightly forward. Ratio is probably 2:1 back to front.

lithos · 11-28-2009, 02:04 AM

Mirror.

The screwed around in photoshop a bit. Nudged in one clavicle, randomise the hair highlights, have the mirror hanging a bit off vertical.

'S how I'd've done it.

Be easier than shagging around with lights.

benjikan · 12-03-2009, 03:51 PM

So, here is the lighting set up for the shot.

A 4 bulb Kino Light, lit from below with a white shoot through diffusor.

An Opalight shooting down at around 60 degrees and around 1 meter above and 2 meters back from the model.

Two bare bulb heads, one on either side of the model at around 100 degrees just slightly off the 90 degree axis of the model.

Two HMI 1.2 Kilo Cinema Lights for the backdrop, shooting down to achieve the gradation.

Full Blue Gelatins on all of the flash sources and a Midnight Blue Gelatin on the HMI's using a Blue Backdrop.

Shot with a Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 Lens at f25.0 at 1/8th of a second.

Converted to B&W in Photoshop.

http://www.benjaminkanarekblog.com/2009/12/04/beauty-shoot-for-citizen-k-mag...w-did-i-do-it/

Last edited by benjikan; 12-03-2009 at 06:04 PM.

kenyee · 12-03-2009, 08:32 PM

Hanging out w/ video guys lately, Ben? :-)
Must be nice to work in a WYSIWYG environment though...

StarDust · 12-04-2009, 12:16 AM

And I'm struggling to afford a second flash...

benjikan · 12-04-2009, 01:08 AM

Originally posted by StarDust

And I'm struggling to afford a second flash...

The client always rents the gear.

fearview · 12-04-2009, 07:09 AM

tell me more about this Ben.

what is this..

Two HMI 1.2 Kilo Cinema Lights for the backdrop, shooting down to achieve the gradation

GerryL · 12-04-2009, 06:41 PM

Originally posted by fearview

tell me more about this Ben.

what is this..

Two HMI 1.2 Kilo Cinema Lights for the backdrop, shooting down to achieve the gradation

He has got himself some movie lights! The big guns!
1.2 kilowatts of output!
That thing is hot!
I use to work with those all the time and each light should have it's own caretaker (from the rental production shop).
The DOP gets to tell his assistants what gels to clip on to it based on his lightmeter readings.
Cool Ben!

StarDust · 12-04-2009, 07:46 PM

Originally posted by benjikan

The client always rents the gear.

Yeah, I know but you still...

You have to start somewhere.
I'm in a photo group with two elinchrom lights, and I use them as much as I can! Also I use them wireless with my (awe at my superiority) cactus wireless transmitter and receivers!
But really, I've just begun to understand model photography and your advice is always appreciated although at times questionable, but I guess that's the fashion business =P

benjikan · 12-05-2009, 05:33 AM

Originally posted by StarDust

Yeah, I know but you still...

You have to start somewhere.
I'm in a photo group with two elinchrom lights, and I use them as much as I can! Also I use them wireless with my (awe at my superiority) cactus wireless transmitter and receivers!
But really, I've just begun to understand model photography and your advice is always appreciated although at times questionable, but I guess that's the fashion business =P

To create the look of HMI, you can always use a couple of 500-1000 watt halogen lights and use a Full Blue Gelatin correction filter to balance for Daylight. You can buy the common outdoor Garden type that comes with a metal stand and plug. For barn doors you can always build them using sheet metal and mat black paint. If you can afford 1000-2000 tungsten lights which cost 10X less than HMI's you can also have the luxury of focusing using the Fresnel lens. You still need to correct with a full Blue Gelatin if you are seeking daylight balanced images.

11-27-2009, 06:53 PM	#17
Clicker Veteran Member Join Date: May 2008 Photos: Gallery Posts: 3,241	2 huge strip lights backlit one off each side and a reflector off the front slightly angled and hair light from directly above and slightly forward. Ratio is probably 2:1 back to front. Last edited by Clicker; 11-27-2009 at 07:00 PM.

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11-27-2009, 12:26 PM	#16
alohadave Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Quincy, MA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,024	Originally posted by GerryL I'm guessing he actually used less lights than what you would normally think. Reflectors would most likely supplement the lesser number of lights. The hair in particular has a circular highlight which you won't usually get with just a light from above as it would also highlight the upper portion (peak) of the hair. Look at the reflections and shadows. There are 5 reflections on the hair. 2 from each side, and one overhead. Reflectors aren't going to give you those hard specular reflections on the hair, and the hard (almost blown out) light on the sides of the face. For the higher set of lights, they are only giving the hair light that you see at 10 and 2 o'clock. The hair reflections at the base of her hair are the same ones that are lighting her neck and the sides of her face. You can tell that they are behind her because the light doesn't reach around to her cheeks. You can see the line of shadow (especially on her right cheek, but it is there on both cheeks) that show that the overhead light is lighting the front of her face and the rim lights are lighting the sides. Also, the fact that the light doesn't wrap around indicates that the light is pretty hard/small. For the front/overhead light, all the hair isn't lit up, because of the angle of the light. If it were more overhead, then you would see the reflection at the peak of the hair. It doesn't need to be a circular or ring light to make that ring shaped reflection in her hair.

11-28-2009, 02:04 AM	#18
lithos Inactive Account Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Brisbane, QLD, AUS Posts: 3,261	Mirror. The screwed around in photoshop a bit. Nudged in one clavicle, randomise the hair highlights, have the mirror hanging a bit off vertical. 'S how I'd've done it. Be easier than shagging around with lights.

12-03-2009, 03:51 PM	#19
benjikan Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Paris, France Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,308 Original Poster	So, here is the lighting set up for the shot. A 4 bulb Kino Light, lit from below with a white shoot through diffusor. An Opalight shooting down at around 60 degrees and around 1 meter above and 2 meters back from the model. Two bare bulb heads, one on either side of the model at around 100 degrees just slightly off the 90 degree axis of the model. Two HMI 1.2 Kilo Cinema Lights for the backdrop, shooting down to achieve the gradation. Full Blue Gelatins on all of the flash sources and a Midnight Blue Gelatin on the HMI's using a Blue Backdrop. Shot with a Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 Lens at f25.0 at 1/8th of a second. Converted to B&W in Photoshop. http://www.benjaminkanarekblog.com/2009/12/04/beauty-shoot-for-citizen-k-mag...w-did-i-do-it/ Last edited by benjikan; 12-03-2009 at 06:04 PM.

12-03-2009, 08:32 PM	#20
kenyee Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Boston, PRofMA Photos: Albums Posts: 3,026	Hanging out w/ video guys lately, Ben? :-) Must be nice to work in a WYSIWYG environment though...

12-04-2009, 12:16 AM	#21
StarDust Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Uppsala, Sweden Posts: 400	And I'm struggling to afford a second flash...

12-04-2009, 01:08 AM	#22
benjikan Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Paris, France Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,308 Original Poster	Originally posted by StarDust And I'm struggling to afford a second flash... The client always rents the gear.

12-04-2009, 07:09 AM	#23
fearview Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Jakarta Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,067	tell me more about this Ben. what is this.. Two HMI 1.2 Kilo Cinema Lights for the backdrop, shooting down to achieve the gradation

12-04-2009, 06:41 PM	#24
GerryL Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: CA Posts: 2,731	Originally posted by fearview tell me more about this Ben. what is this.. Two HMI 1.2 Kilo Cinema Lights for the backdrop, shooting down to achieve the gradation He has got himself some movie lights! The big guns! 1.2 kilowatts of output! That thing is hot! I use to work with those all the time and each light should have it's own caretaker (from the rental production shop). The DOP gets to tell his assistants what gels to clip on to it based on his lightmeter readings. Cool Ben!

12-04-2009, 07:46 PM	#25
StarDust Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Uppsala, Sweden Posts: 400	Originally posted by benjikan The client always rents the gear. Yeah, I know but you still... You have to start somewhere. I'm in a photo group with two elinchrom lights, and I use them as much as I can! Also I use them wireless with my (awe at my superiority) cactus wireless transmitter and receivers! But really, I've just begun to understand model photography and your advice is always appreciated although at times questionable, but I guess that's the fashion business =P

12-05-2009, 05:33 AM	#26
benjikan Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Paris, France Photos: Gallery Posts: 4,308 Original Poster	Originally posted by StarDust Yeah, I know but you still... You have to start somewhere. I'm in a photo group with two elinchrom lights, and I use them as much as I can! Also I use them wireless with my (awe at my superiority) cactus wireless transmitter and receivers! But really, I've just begun to understand model photography and your advice is always appreciated although at times questionable, but I guess that's the fashion business =P To create the look of HMI, you can always use a couple of 500-1000 watt halogen lights and use a Full Blue Gelatin correction filter to balance for Daylight. You can buy the common outdoor Garden type that comes with a metal stand and plug. For barn doors you can always build them using sheet metal and mat black paint. If you can afford 1000-2000 tungsten lights which cost 10X less than HMI's you can also have the luxury of focusing using the Fresnel lens. You still need to correct with a full Blue Gelatin if you are seeking daylight balanced images.