How do you shoot low light?

**Ash** · 01-20-2010, 01:04 PM

Av mode and manually bumping up ISO most usually. There's enough latitude with the K20D that I can get good results with quite low light, but focusing may be my biggest obstacle. I normally am determined to stay in AF and focus in on a high contrast part of the subject to attain focus lock and release the shutter shortly thereafter.

keyser · 01-23-2010, 12:19 PM

The only technique that works for me is to use Av mode and preset what I regard as an acceptible ISO and aperture. Using a fast 50, if you are set at ISO 1600 and at f/1.4 and you can't get a shutter speed above 1/50th then you simply don't have enough light.

RioRico · 02-07-2010, 01:23 PM

Originally posted by Marc Sabatella

I'd be curious to see that comparison.

I'm on the road and don't have access to those images now. Maybe in 2-3 weeks...

Graystar · 02-07-2010, 02:43 PM

Originally posted by audiobomber

I can't do this with the K-x. If I choose the lowest shutter speed I will tolerate, the camera automatically opens the aperture all the way. If I choose aperture priority, the camera chooses an extravagant shutter speed at the cost of high ISO.

On my K-x I use P-mode and auto ISO. After a half-press, I can use the e-dial to select different combinations of aperture and shutter along the program line. Unfortunately, I haven't found any documentation of what the program-line is.

The camera appears to default to 1/100s and an aperture that gives the lowest ISO. Once the aperture is as wide as it will go, the ISO starts to increase. The e-dial shifts the program line one way or another, but for the most part it can be viewed as controlling the aperture (unless the light level changes dramatically.) As the aperture closes, the camera will allow speed to drop to 1/40 and then then it start increasing ISO. The minimum speed seems to depend on the current focal length, reaching 1/20s at 18mm. Of course, that's with the kit lens. I don't know what it will do with a much faster lens.

Since I prefer low ISO, this works out for me.

Eigengrau · 02-07-2010, 07:08 PM

It's interesting to hear from some of the folks who prefer NOT trying to make a night scene look like daylight - I find myself doing the same thing, but hadn't thought about it really until someone else pointed it out.

With ISO 6400 available, shake reduction, and a 1.4 or 2.0 aperture, I can shoot most things with available light if I need to. However, I've been using my bounce flash more and more lately, because getting a brighter subject and then just a bit of that warm ambient light seems to capture the feel of a moody, dim situation better than daylight-esque with even exposure across the frame can.

Marc Sabatella · 02-08-2010, 11:34 AM

One of the things I learned from painting is that one of the defining features of a night scene is the almost complete absence of mid tones. Everything is either directly illuminated and relatively bright, or else not illuminated and thus deep in shadow. Whereas in daylight, the sky and/or other reflected light fills in shadows and creates a wide range of mid tones.

Meaning one of the surest ways to make a night scene not look like a night scene is to fill in the shadows too completely. On the other hand, our eyes are capable of perceiving more detail in the shadows than would generally be captured without some attempt to fill in the shadows. There is definitely an art to it.

**ChrisPlatt** · 02-08-2010, 12:27 PM

I use fast film, of course!

Chris

GeneV · 02-08-2010, 12:30 PM

I use Av mode, and I usually set the ISO at 1600 or sometimes 3200 on the K-x. I am finding that I th'm happy with the K-x 1600 shots with little or no NR.

I agree that with 6400, you can turn night into somewhat noisy day. It's all right for an effect, but not for capturing a moment.

enderkasim · 02-08-2010, 12:38 PM

Low-light is really trouble. If what you want to capture has a depth of more then 10cm's then wide aperature lenses like 1.4 or 2 will not be of much help. I'm trying to use the pop-up flash whenever possible...I set the USER mode on my k20d to following settings:

Program mode
Flash is set to Slow, with second shutter release.
Flash exposure compensation is set to +1
Exposure is set to -2
ISO is set to 400
I shoot RAW....but if you are not shooting raw set WB to flash.

This usually gives good results and the last flash usually illumines objects nice enough to overwrite any motion blur. Just make sure that there are no reflecting surfaces around....they screw with flash metering VERY badly.

levyfulop · 02-08-2010, 01:22 PM

On the question: " How do you shoot low light?" I would respond with: standing next to my K20D, which is on the tripod, having my wireless/cable trigger in my left/right hand. Thinking why is my bag so heavy!

Actually I tend to stay in M mode, sometimes with the help of the Green Button, sometimes just by experimentation (if the time allows it).

I shoot 99.99% in RAW, WB if it`s not on Shade than it`s on Flash. I tend to forget that I have set a week/2/3 ago flash for WB.

I like to keep ISO as low as it can possibly stay, rarely jump over 800/1600 (100/200 if I have flash with me and is allowed to be used), but again I am no commercial shooter, no worry if thing don't come out exactly I wanted to/needed to.

phzy2003 · 04-07-2010, 11:05 PM

i use high iso and bigger aperture or i will use a tripod

ajuett · 04-07-2010, 11:12 PM

If the subject is still, I use a tripod. If the subject is moving then I bump up the ISO.

mysticcowboy · 04-12-2010, 07:58 AM

I find it interesting to see the different approaches to this topic.

For handheld, I typically shoot in Av mode. I have my front dial set to ISO and adjust that. Since my camera has two dials and ISO is so important in night shooting, that method is quicker than full manual, which requires a trip into the menu system for adjustment.

For long exposure, I will use M mode and my default ISO setting of 100 or 200. Shooting with a tripod slows everything down and I'm using a remote shutter release, so there's not thought of capturing a moment.

I definitely recommend getting a fast lens or two. Kit lenses may be adequately sharp but the 2-4 stop penalty they impose forces you into super noisy ISO range.

michael mckee
My Port Townsend – A City in Photographs – 365

**rparmar** · 04-12-2010, 08:08 AM

Originally posted by mysticcowboy

I find it interesting to see the different approaches to this topic.

For handheld, I typically shoot in Av mode. I have my front dial set to ISO and adjust that. Since my camera has two dials and ISO is so important in night shooting, that method is quicker than full manual, which requires a trip into the menu system for adjustment.

I do essentially the same, with ISO always on the back dial. It is a pet peeve of mine that the same setup cannot be achieve in M mode, especially since it is only a firmware adjustment.

**jbinpg** · 04-12-2010, 10:38 AM

I'm always in M mode on a tripod for low light. Doesn't matter if it is an M or A lens.

Dusk in Prince George on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

I was swapping lenses frequently for this shoot and as usual I forgot to adjust for the proper lens focal length so the EXIF is wrong... and I was too lazy to correct with exiftool. This was actually taken with the M-28mm at f/8.

Jack

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01-20-2010, 01:04 PM	#31
Ash Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Toowoomba, Queensland Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 23,920	Av mode and manually bumping up ISO most usually. There's enough latitude with the K20D that I can get good results with quite low light, but focusing may be my biggest obstacle. I normally am determined to stay in AF and focus in on a high contrast part of the subject to attain focus lock and release the shutter shortly thereafter.

01-23-2010, 12:19 PM	#32
keyser Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Posts: 376	The only technique that works for me is to use Av mode and preset what I regard as an acceptible ISO and aperture. Using a fast 50, if you are set at ISO 1600 and at f/1.4 and you can't get a shutter speed above 1/50th then you simply don't have enough light.

02-07-2010, 01:23 PM	#33
RioRico Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Limbo, California Posts: 11,263	Originally posted by Marc Sabatella I'd be curious to see that comparison. I'm on the road and don't have access to those images now. Maybe in 2-3 weeks...

02-07-2010, 02:43 PM	#34
Graystar Inactive Account Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Brooklyn, NY Posts: 144	Originally posted by audiobomber I can't do this with the K-x. If I choose the lowest shutter speed I will tolerate, the camera automatically opens the aperture all the way. If I choose aperture priority, the camera chooses an extravagant shutter speed at the cost of high ISO. On my K-x I use P-mode and auto ISO. After a half-press, I can use the e-dial to select different combinations of aperture and shutter along the program line. Unfortunately, I haven't found any documentation of what the program-line is. The camera appears to default to 1/100s and an aperture that gives the lowest ISO. Once the aperture is as wide as it will go, the ISO starts to increase. The e-dial shifts the program line one way or another, but for the most part it can be viewed as controlling the aperture (unless the light level changes dramatically.) As the aperture closes, the camera will allow speed to drop to 1/40 and then then it start increasing ISO. The minimum speed seems to depend on the current focal length, reaching 1/20s at 18mm. Of course, that's with the kit lens. I don't know what it will do with a much faster lens. Since I prefer low ISO, this works out for me.

02-07-2010, 07:08 PM	#35
Eigengrau Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Colorado Photos: Albums Posts: 250	It's interesting to hear from some of the folks who prefer NOT trying to make a night scene look like daylight - I find myself doing the same thing, but hadn't thought about it really until someone else pointed it out. With ISO 6400 available, shake reduction, and a 1.4 or 2.0 aperture, I can shoot most things with available light if I need to. However, I've been using my bounce flash more and more lately, because getting a brighter subject and then just a bit of that warm ambient light seems to capture the feel of a moody, dim situation better than daylight-esque with even exposure across the frame can.

02-08-2010, 11:34 AM	#36
Marc Sabatella Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Denver, CO Photos: Gallery Posts: 10,685	One of the things I learned from painting is that one of the defining features of a night scene is the almost complete absence of mid tones. Everything is either directly illuminated and relatively bright, or else not illuminated and thus deep in shadow. Whereas in daylight, the sky and/or other reflected light fills in shadows and creates a wide range of mid tones. Meaning one of the surest ways to make a night scene not look like a night scene is to fill in the shadows too completely. On the other hand, our eyes are capable of perceiving more detail in the shadows than would generally be captured without some attempt to fill in the shadows. There is definitely an art to it.

02-08-2010, 12:27 PM	#37
ChrisPlatt Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Rockaway Beach NYC Posts: 7,694	I use fast film, of course! Chris

02-08-2010, 12:30 PM	#38
GeneV Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Albuquerque NM Photos: Albums Posts: 9,830	I use Av mode, and I usually set the ISO at 1600 or sometimes 3200 on the K-x. I am finding that I th'm happy with the K-x 1600 shots with little or no NR. I agree that with 6400, you can turn night into somewhat noisy day. It's all right for an effect, but not for capturing a moment.

02-08-2010, 12:38 PM	#39
enderkasim New Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Istanbul / Turkey Photos: Gallery Posts: 21	Low-light is really trouble. If what you want to capture has a depth of more then 10cm's then wide aperature lenses like 1.4 or 2 will not be of much help. I'm trying to use the pop-up flash whenever possible...I set the USER mode on my k20d to following settings: Program mode Flash is set to Slow, with second shutter release. Flash exposure compensation is set to +1 Exposure is set to -2 ISO is set to 400 I shoot RAW....but if you are not shooting raw set WB to flash. This usually gives good results and the last flash usually illumines objects nice enough to overwrite any motion blur. Just make sure that there are no reflecting surfaces around....they screw with flash metering VERY badly.

02-08-2010, 01:22 PM	#40
levyfulop Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brno, CZ Posts: 30	On the question: " How do you shoot low light?" I would respond with: standing next to my K20D, which is on the tripod, having my wireless/cable trigger in my left/right hand. Thinking why is my bag so heavy! Actually I tend to stay in M mode, sometimes with the help of the Green Button, sometimes just by experimentation (if the time allows it). I shoot 99.99% in RAW, WB if it`s not on Shade than it`s on Flash. I tend to forget that I have set a week/2/3 ago flash for WB. I like to keep ISO as low as it can possibly stay, rarely jump over 800/1600 (100/200 if I have flash with me and is allowed to be used), but again I am no commercial shooter, no worry if thing don't come out exactly I wanted to/needed to.

04-07-2010, 11:05 PM	#41
phzy2003 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Gold Coast, Australia Photos: Gallery Posts: 167	i use high iso and bigger aperture or i will use a tripod

04-07-2010, 11:12 PM	#42
ajuett Inactive Account Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 1,100	If the subject is still, I use a tripod. If the subject is moving then I bump up the ISO.

04-12-2010, 07:58 AM	#43
mysticcowboy Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: port townsend, wa Photos: Albums Posts: 968	I find it interesting to see the different approaches to this topic. For handheld, I typically shoot in Av mode. I have my front dial set to ISO and adjust that. Since my camera has two dials and ISO is so important in night shooting, that method is quicker than full manual, which requires a trip into the menu system for adjustment. For long exposure, I will use M mode and my default ISO setting of 100 or 200. Shooting with a tripod slows everything down and I'm using a remote shutter release, so there's not thought of capturing a moment. I definitely recommend getting a fast lens or two. Kit lenses may be adequately sharp but the 2-4 stop penalty they impose forces you into super noisy ISO range. michael mckee My Port Townsend – A City in Photographs – 365

04-12-2010, 08:08 AM	#44
rparmar Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2008 Photos: Gallery Posts: 8,819	Originally posted by mysticcowboy I find it interesting to see the different approaches to this topic. For handheld, I typically shoot in Av mode. I have my front dial set to ISO and adjust that. Since my camera has two dials and ISO is so important in night shooting, that method is quicker than full manual, which requires a trip into the menu system for adjustment. I do essentially the same, with ISO always on the back dial. It is a pet peeve of mine that the same setup cannot be achieve in M mode, especially since it is only a firmware adjustment.

04-12-2010, 10:38 AM	#45
jbinpg Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Prince George, BC Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,546	I'm always in M mode on a tripod for low light. Doesn't matter if it is an M or A lens. Dusk in Prince George on Flickr - Photo Sharing! I was swapping lenses frequently for this shoot and as usual I forgot to adjust for the proper lens focal length so the EXIF is wrong... and I was too lazy to correct with exiftool. This was actually taken with the M-28mm at f/8. Jack