Originally posted by audiobomber How do you shoot in low light? With my K20D, I like TAv mode. I set the aperture and shutter speed and let the camera expose with auto ISO (up to 3200). I can't do this with the K-x. If I choose the lowest shutter speed I will tolerate, the camera automatically opens the aperture all the way. If I choose aperture priority, the camera chooses an extravagant shutter speed at the cost of high ISO. So how do you shoot high ISO (I'd be interested in tips for my specific cameras or any camera).
Totally depends on what I'm shooting. You don't say what you are thinking about.
The other day, we visited the Dallas Arboretum. Inside a beautiful old house on the Arboretum grounds there was an exhibit of Nativity scenes from around the world. Photography was allowed, so I decided to take a few shots. But lighting was horrible. So I was shooting handheld, at around ISO 1600. I think I was in Av mode, and keeping any eye on the shutter speed to keep it from going below 1/30th sec.
If the subjects aren't moving, I'd prefer to use a tripod. Took a photo inside our hotel room at the Grand Canyon on Christmas Day. Didn't have a tripod so I placed the camera on a steady surface and used a 2s shutter-delay exposure. I kind of like the result. I used ISO 100, manual exposure, f/3.5. My wife walked into the photo during the almost one-second long exposure and so I got her ghost. (Hardly an apt comparison but I've always gotten a kick out of the ghosts in some of Atget's photos of Paris.)
Shooting a wedding inside a church with bad lighting, OR shooting indoor sports like volleball in a gym with bad lighting, I tend to use TAv: Set my aperture as wide as possible, set the shutter speed as slow as possible, and let the camera adjust the ISO as necessary. Yeah, indoor volleyball bears no resemblance to a wedding ceremony, which is why, for volleyball, my shutter speed will probably not drop below 1/200th sec or something like that, while in a church, shooting a bride and groom who tend not to jump around a lot, I might get by with 1/30th sec quite frequently.
In short, it's like everything else: You gotta know what you're shooting and do the right thing for that.
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I have in the past argued in favor of the K20D's (and K10D's and K-7's) P or hyperprogram mode. I said that P can give you all of the control that you get with M, and P is easier to use. I will however admit that P works best when the light is good. When the lighting presents a special challenge, M may be easier to use, since you may be able to think in your head what settings to use and just use 'em. And M has the advantage of staying (generally) put, which is one of the reasons that I use M when shooting with flash.
Will