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01-03-2010, 09:03 AM   #1
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How do you shoot low light?

How do you shoot in low light? With my K20D, I like TAv mode. I set the aperture and shutter speed and let the camera expose with auto ISO (up to 3200). I can't do this with the K-x. If I choose the lowest shutter speed I will tolerate, the camera automatically opens the aperture all the way. If I choose aperture priority, the camera chooses an extravagant shutter speed at the cost of high ISO. So how do you shoot high ISO (I'd be interested in tips for my specific cameras or any camera).

PS I do use flash when I feel it's appropriate.


Last edited by audiobomber; 01-03-2010 at 09:12 AM.
01-03-2010, 09:10 AM   #2
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I was shooting on NYE in P mode with Av-Hyper setting. I don't know if that's much different. I was adjusting the ISO manually, sometimes using auto ISO. It seemed to work, but I did get some shots that were metered badly.
01-03-2010, 09:10 AM   #3
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Well, I don't know about the K-x, but my k110D has auto-iso and if not, just choose a high ISO and stick with it, shooting with your favorite mode (Tv, Av, Manual, whatever).

Also, in low light conditions, I do like to play with light/dark contrasts, often underexposing low lit parts of the frame on purpose. Spot metering is useful for this.

Of course, my FA 50/1.4 is a fabulous lens and major help in low light.
01-03-2010, 09:59 AM   #4
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Depends how low but mostly using "P" with Av iso from 400to 800 on a K200D body (getting a K7 should improve things a lot) When people are included in the shot (portraits) i ask them to hold , (radom people) i just take the shot and more than often i have ghosting. *everything shot in jpegs*

Landscapes usually tripod mounted, SR off, full manual, spot -meter the whole frame using a handheld meter with spot attachment.

forgot to add...adjust don't use AWB, set according to light conditions, i never use flash.


Last edited by Clicker; 01-03-2010 at 10:28 AM.
01-03-2010, 10:19 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
How do you shoot in low light?
Same way I shoot all other light: M mode, choose ISO and aperture myself, use Green button to select initial shutter speed, which I then adjust myself as necessary based on feedback fro the meter as well as my own read of the scene.

More specifically, in typical low light situations, I set aperture to f/2.8, ISO to 1600, and if the Green button says I need a shutter speed I know will be too slow for the focal length, I bump it higher myself and deal with the underexposure in PP - the equivalent of shooting at higher ISO. With the K-x, I'd probably just set ISO 3200 in the first place.
01-03-2010, 10:58 AM   #6
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It depends on what I'm shooting. Basketball in a dim gym? I go TAv, let ISO go where it needs to go and use plenty of NR in PP. Landscape? I'll shoot AV, keep ISO low and let the camera select shutter speed.
01-03-2010, 11:02 AM   #7
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Same as shoot most other things, I use Av mode but have ISO adjustable on the front fial. I just keep an eye on the shutter speed and either tweak aperture or ISO to get the shutter speed I need.

01-03-2010, 12:01 PM   #8
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Use Manual mode, e.g. as Marc suggested above.

A week ago i was walking along the sidewalks admiring all the holiday store lights, shooting at interesting scenes. I started at twilight and continued as it got darker.

Started at f2.8 and 400 iso, took several shots, went to f2.8 and 800iso, took several shots, kept getting darker, went to f2.4 800iso, eventually went to f2.0 with the FA50 f1.4. tried to stay at 1/60 to catch people on sidewalk in the distance. so simple it was fun. Results were good!

I now know why folks like "fast" lenses.
01-03-2010, 12:20 PM   #9
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TAv is so convenient for to use in low-light. If you want automatic metering that's the mode to use so you can always keep your ISO as low as possible for the best quality. This is with the K-7. On the K-x no TAv mode is available and that makes things more difficult in low-light. On the K-x I often use Tv to stay at 1/(FL*1.5) - 2 stops (FL=focal length) because that's what SR is able to do consistently. This works well unless I don't want to use a lens wide open (like the FA50 for example).

But lately, I'm using M mode a bit more, realizing that in low-light the ambient is often constant and you don't need to meter all the time. The big advantage of using M is the consistency from shot to shot. On tripod I use exclusively M mode.
01-03-2010, 02:48 PM   #10
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I use TAv or manual (more often) ... ISO 1000-1600 on the K20D; I haven't tried it with the K7 yet.
If I have shots to be done with the tripod, I use lower ISO settings ... 200-400.

JP
01-04-2010, 03:43 PM   #11
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If the light is really really low, I sometimes have to crawl on the ground to get around to shoot.

*runs away*
01-04-2010, 07:00 PM   #12
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im shutting in two different ways. If i need jpegs straight from camera (i refuse to do that kind of jobs so its the rare situation) i'v been using TAv or M with high iso, if im doing raws and postprocess it later im trying to use goood difused light from the flashgun, sometimes i use small reflector kept in left hand, sometimes stoffen style diffuser (made myself), low iso to get the raws with as high dynamic range as possible and slow shutter speed like 1/3s - 1/10... shutter speed depends on lightest points at the room - for instance bulb source: with EV comp +0,7-1,3EV light measure it depends of lot of factors however, but i always tend to avoid flashgun partially burn effect....
01-04-2010, 07:24 PM   #13
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I am more along the lines of Marc. set everything to manual, set ISO and aperture to where I want them, and then press the green button, but ulike Marc, who will under expose and keep shutter speed, I am willing to accept blurr due to subject motion (and rely on SR for steady camera) than under expose and push in PP

I should add, most of my low light is with MF lenses, SMC 50mm F1.4, Vivitar 85mm F1.4 and SMC 135 F2.5. with occasional wider lenses but all below F2.8
01-04-2010, 07:45 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
How do you shoot in low light? With my K20D, I like TAv mode. I set the aperture and shutter speed and let the camera expose with auto ISO (up to 3200). I can't do this with the K-x. If I choose the lowest shutter speed I will tolerate, the camera automatically opens the aperture all the way. If I choose aperture priority, the camera chooses an extravagant shutter speed at the cost of high ISO. So how do you shoot high ISO (I'd be interested in tips for my specific cameras or any camera).

Totally depends on what I'm shooting. You don't say what you are thinking about.

The other day, we visited the Dallas Arboretum. Inside a beautiful old house on the Arboretum grounds there was an exhibit of Nativity scenes from around the world. Photography was allowed, so I decided to take a few shots. But lighting was horrible. So I was shooting handheld, at around ISO 1600. I think I was in Av mode, and keeping any eye on the shutter speed to keep it from going below 1/30th sec.

If the subjects aren't moving, I'd prefer to use a tripod. Took a photo inside our hotel room at the Grand Canyon on Christmas Day. Didn't have a tripod so I placed the camera on a steady surface and used a 2s shutter-delay exposure. I kind of like the result. I used ISO 100, manual exposure, f/3.5. My wife walked into the photo during the almost one-second long exposure and so I got her ghost. (Hardly an apt comparison but I've always gotten a kick out of the ghosts in some of Atget's photos of Paris.)

Shooting a wedding inside a church with bad lighting, OR shooting indoor sports like volleball in a gym with bad lighting, I tend to use TAv: Set my aperture as wide as possible, set the shutter speed as slow as possible, and let the camera adjust the ISO as necessary. Yeah, indoor volleyball bears no resemblance to a wedding ceremony, which is why, for volleyball, my shutter speed will probably not drop below 1/200th sec or something like that, while in a church, shooting a bride and groom who tend not to jump around a lot, I might get by with 1/30th sec quite frequently.

In short, it's like everything else: You gotta know what you're shooting and do the right thing for that.

*

I have in the past argued in favor of the K20D's (and K10D's and K-7's) P or hyperprogram mode. I said that P can give you all of the control that you get with M, and P is easier to use. I will however admit that P works best when the light is good. When the lighting presents a special challenge, M may be easier to use, since you may be able to think in your head what settings to use and just use 'em. And M has the advantage of staying (generally) put, which is one of the reasons that I use M when shooting with flash.

Will
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01-04-2010, 09:02 PM   #15
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it depends...if you are in a hurry, pop out the flash but in the menu adjust the Exposure Compensation and the flash power in the flash menu.

If you have time and nothing moving, long expsoure on tripod will work.

if really have lots of time and got movement around your subject, incredibly long Bulb mode on tripod.
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