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10-22-2013, 10:17 PM   #1
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Howdy; back to the drawing boards (g)
Lens: 18-135WR Camera: K5 Photo Location: Washington 

Hello:

If I could have some help, I would appreciate it greatly.
I'm a new owner of the K5 and first DSLR. My previous cameras have been point and shoots and I'm currently using the K5 as a point and shoot (Green mode). I'm slowly going to start to take itsy bitsy steps but that will be another post. (g)
I took this camera this year through the Grand Canyon and Alaska and have not had any trouble; err there was something in GC but I switched over to green mode and it seemed to go away.
This past week I went to DC and took the K5 with me. I have no means to view the pictures except when I got home.
When I got home, I was dismayed to realize that all (98%) of the pictures were dark. Something probably changed between Alaska and now but I'm not sure what.
I shot everything in green mode with a 18-135 lens. I have a UV filter (Hoya) on the lens so I'm not sure if that's the issue or not. It's probably something simple but...
The weather was overcast in the morning with partly sunny in the afternoon.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank You.
Hondo

P.S. Now, I have to figure out how to post a picture. (g)

10-22-2013, 10:38 PM   #2
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Try again

C if this works.
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10-23-2013, 03:17 AM   #3
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Don't worry all is not lost, if these are representative of the photos that are dark you will be able to tweek them in any pp program.
What happens is the camera makes a best guess at the exposure and it doesn't always get it spot on, I would suggest going to P mode because then you can use EV compensation to fine tune the exposure,
I also use centre weighted metering to make sure at least the object of interest is roughly exposed correctly. Once you have taken a shot have a close look in review with the histogram on and you will see if you are over or under exposed, mostly I find I am under and need +1/2 ev compensation adjust accordingly and then take another shot and recheck (this is called chimping). Others may be able to explain it better but its all to do with the the amount of dark and light in the photo ie more dark and you will get over exposure more light then it will be under. Hope this is of assistance Ian
10-23-2013, 03:40 AM   #4
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All they need is 5 min of PP in PS...


Last edited by wildman; 11-02-2013 at 05:07 AM.
10-24-2013, 09:33 PM   #5
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Howdy;

Thank You for your replies. I was a little worried for a second.

I don't think Novice would be the level that I'm at now. (G) I need to go back and reread the forums and see if there are posts to help with what Wildman did so I can start to learn.

Hondo
10-30-2013, 08:28 AM   #6
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Those almost look a tad too bright now and seem fuzzy I'ive noticed that effect when pulling up exposure before). So long as the filter is a good HMC Hoya filter it shouldn't degrade the image to the point that you can see a difference unless you are doing major cropping and zooming or making a poster (and maybe not even then). A UV filter is pretty well just a lens protector on a DSLR though, its normally for film. With a good plastic lens hood to prevent accidental contact you can probably ditch the filter and save it for times when there is blowing debris or water is involved.
I have found that Pentax programming tends to always try to save the highlights (notice your skies are nicely exposed) because shadows are much easier to pull up in a photo editing program, if you want a decent free program I use Paint.net. Adjusting overall brightness in that program is best done by fiddling with the levels control, you can figure it out just playing with the sliders.
If you want to understand what your camera sees, set the camera to M and pick an exposure that works (exposure meter bar centered), and with the camera on multi segmented metering so it is looking at the whole image slowly move the camera around and watch the exposure meter in the view finder as light and dark areas enter and leave the frame. You will eventually get the hang of how much bright sky it takes (almost none) to throw the metering way off and what you need to do to correct it.
As was said I always use center weighted unless I really wanna try and average in a whole scene for some reason. Sometimes even switching to spot metering and waving the camera around will give you a good idea of exposure levels for small areas under a given set of conditions. Unless I am shooting something that requires quick sniping with no time for exposure correction, I will always use my camera on M now, mostly an old film camera habit. I used to take the K1000 and aim it so no sky was in the view finder when setting metering and then frame the image because those things are absolutely horrible about letting the tiniest bright spot throw metering wildly off.

Last edited by PPPPPP42; 10-30-2013 at 08:33 AM.
10-30-2013, 10:08 AM   #7
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Hi
Yes they are underexposed. If you display the histogram when you review the images on the camera LCD it will give you an idea if you are under or overexposing the shot. The second one is quite underexposed. If you open it up in PSE or PS and add a levels layer you will see the values stop well short of the 255 level and since there are whites in the image it should go all the way over. In pp if you drag the right hand slider to the left to about 170 that will help a lot. Then stamp the image Ctrl + Alt + Shift + E as a new layer and adjust the shadows and highlights with the shadows/highlights tool and that will get you in the ballpark, then you can tweak it further from there. I did a little extra dodge and burn, sharpened a bit and straightened the building to illustrate what I mean. It's still dark but it's a heavy overcast day so it's up to personal taste as to how far you take it.
Posted it here. Alternate edit of photo by hondo 10us | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Regards
Greg
10-30-2013, 10:29 AM   #8
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HI

And while you are working on the exposure in PP don't overlook some other important corrections that will enhance your pics, namely straightening falling lines and getting rid of surplus content (cropping) to make the image more appealing.

Falling lines in wide angle shots can work artistically but often are just a bother as in your first shot.

Greetings


Last edited by Schraubstock; 11-01-2014 at 04:17 PM.
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