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These are images that show the subjects as spontaneous and comfortable with your presence, so you as the photographer are not intruding into these images. They're probably family or friends, so that would be expected, but it's important that you don't inrude because it allows them to be themselves. The colours on the image at left are strange, not sure why, but it may be due to the colour space you used for the export to jpg. There is not sufficient light is on the woman's face, and the image would be so much more interesting if her eyes were open. Were the originals RAW files? The light on the right-hand image is great, a very happy, warm summer tone. I really like the haze treatment you put over it. Sharpness is an issue in both images, especially in the one on the right, where subject movement may have caught you out, although 400 ISO and f3.2 should be plenty on a summer day to capture movement. I'd decrease the aperture for images where subjects are not frozen in the same space, just to increase depth of field, but that will also reduce your shutter speed, so it becomes really important to hold the camera steady when pressing the shutter button. The less than stellar sharpness may be camera shake. The angle that you used is good, you seem to be on the same level or slightly higher, but you're not standing upright and shooting down, which can sometimes create an awkward perspective.
Because the cost factor of film and development has been removed from the equation with digital photography, images are essentially free, and for me that means the freedom to take many images. If you take many shots, there should be a few decent ones in a series, and maybe one or two that are really good. I don't mean that you should become a spray and shoot photographer, just that you should feel free to let the shutter fly when you see a good moment through the viewfinder. At the same time, tracking a person through a viewfinder often offers the best opportunity for an excellent shot, so try both approaches. Subjects as comfortable as these two won't mind, I think. The FA 50/1.4 is capable of extremely sharp images, it's a wonderful lens, so you should definitely be able to get very sharp images, especially if you stay away from the maximum aperture, where DOF is very thin.
F3.2 is a good choice, but play around with smaller apertures, and, if the subject is still, move in closer with a bigger aperture and make sure the nearest eye is sharp. Keep shooting, and never stop asking for feedback, as it tells me you care about your growth as a photographer.
Last edited by demondata; 09-13-2014 at 06:17 PM.
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Originally posted by Alcazar 
Post #15 by Kerrowdown
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