[Hexism]

Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here.

---

It is my first time using Lightroom too.

Sorry that I am not quite sure how to post and translate the information.

Please correct me if I am wrong

ISO: 100
Focal Length: 18mm
Aperture: f/3.5
Shuttle Speed: 0.4 sec
Shot in Auto Mode

Concerns:
1. I captured in both JPG and DNG format. I opened JPG and DNG. They look different. Is this normal?
2. I am preparing a trip to Vegas. How can I improve my night photography skills? There is going to be more lights and people.....

Thank you!

[wyc14]

1.JPG are processed inside the camera while DNG is the raw image so it is normal for the JPG and DNG to look different.

2.For night photography a tripod is useful for longer exposures and to reduce the shake

[Hexism]

1.JPG are processed inside the camera while DNG is the raw image so it is normal for the JPG and DNG to look different.

2.For night photography a tripod is useful for longer exposures and to reduce the shake

So to improve my shots, basically, I need to reduce shake? It has nothing to do with the setting or any other aspects?

Thank you wyc14!

[K David]

So to improve my shots, basically, I need to reduce shake?

A few other things would help, too. The horizon is not level, which stands out because of the way the buildings and light post tilt. Also, because you're pointing up (very slightly), the buildings are somewhat trapezoidal. If you were to aim up enough to to get the whole building, it would look like it was falling over backwards (absolutely my biggest pet peeve with a photo of a structure is when it looks like it's falling over due to camera perspective.)

But, yes, at night either a tripod or something else (lamp post, mail box, etc.) should be used to steady the camera. The same rule applies as with film: don't hand hold as a shutter speed that has a lower number than your lens focal length. (e.g., 1/50th for 50mm, 1/400th for 400mm.)

Also, a personal pet peeve of mine is the photographer's shadow being in a photo, especially a partial shadow.

But you're headed in the right direction.

[bsamcash]

I recommend shooting in P or "Program" mode. Set your ISO to extended auto from 80-6400. Try to stick to the wide end for the largest aperture, and try to hold your camera very steady. Unfortunately, though good in a pinch, the kit lens is not great for handheld low light photography due to its slow aperture. If you have a few extra bucks to invest, there are very good and inexpensive fast primes to choose from which will do much better.

[Transit]

2. I am preparing a trip to Vegas. How can I improve my night photography skills? There is going to be more lights and people.....

Thank you!

Looks like you are making a good start
If you want the movement of cars etc to show blured, then the slow shutter speed you used (1/2 sec) will do it.
If you want the action frozen, increase the iso from 100 to 800 or 1600. That means the camera is more sensitive to the light
so shutter speed will be faster.

While putting the camera in full auto will get shots, you won't learn as fast.
Take control, thats why you have a DSLR
Try aperture priority ( Av) or shutter priority (Tv)

[Hexism]

A few other things would help, too. The horizon is not level, which stands out because of the way the buildings and light post tilt. Also, because you're pointing up (very slightly), the buildings are somewhat trapezoidal. If you were to aim up enough to to get the whole building, it would look like it was falling over backwards (absolutely my biggest pet peeve with a photo of a structure is when it looks like it's falling over due to camera perspective.)

But, yes, at night either a tripod or something else (lamp post, mail box, etc.) should be used to steady the camera. The same rule applies as with film: don't hand hold as a shutter speed that has a lower number than your lens focal length. (e.g., 1/50th for 50mm, 1/400th for 400mm.)

Also, a personal pet peeve of mine is the photographer's shadow being in a photo, especially a partial shadow.

But you're headed in the right direction.

I see. I was actually doing that on purpose.

May I know whether this is a rule for photography that creates better picture and some other reasoning? Or it is personal preference?

Thanks for the rule!!! That is an interesting way of remembering it.

I recommend shooting in P or "Program" mode. Set your ISO to extended auto from 80-6400. Try to stick to the wide end for the largest aperture, and try to hold your camera very steady. Unfortunately, though good in a pinch, the kit lens is not great for handheld low light photography due to its slow aperture. If you have a few extra bucks to invest, there are very good and inexpensive fast primes to choose from which will do much better.

Will try again tomorrow in P mode. Thank you! The instruction for the mode is very helpful! I

Wide end for the largest aperture means the biggest number of aperture as possible right?

I am absolutely clueless about the market of lens. What are the inexpensive lenses that you speak of? An example link will be much appreciated

Looks like you are making a good start
If you want the movement of cars etc to show blured, then the slow shutter speed you used (1/2 sec) will do it.
If you want the action frozen, increase the iso from 100 to 800 or 1600. That means the camera is more sensitive to the light
so shutter speed will be faster.

While putting the camera in full auto will get shots, you won't learn as fast.
Take control, thats why you have a DSLR
Try aperture priority ( Av) or shutter priority (Tv)

Thanks! I really like that you gave exact numbers for the instructions.

Will definitely take more control on my next few tries.

I am still familiarizing with the buttons and how to hold a DSLR at the moment lol.

The cold is not helping much too.

Thank you Transit!

[ZoeB]

When we say wide aperture, we mean a small number, which corresponds to a large opening. It's a little confusing, i know, but you'll get used to it. In the case of your kit lens, the widest aperture will be F3.5 at a wide angle (zoomed out) and 5.6 when zoomed in. An example of an inexpensive, good, fast lens (we say fast when we mean that it's widest aperture is large, usually 2.8 or larger is considered to be a fast lens) is this one: Pentax 35mm DA L F2.4 AL Lens 21987 B&H Photo Video
I don't own one myself (yet, it's next on my list :P), but it's known for being sharp, but affordable for anyone, and it's a good focal length prime.
Good luck! There's a lot to learn

EDIT: it may also be smart for you to get a remote, you can get them really cheaply, and it minimises the shake from pressing the shutter button, which can be quite noticeable, especially if you're on unsteady ground/your tripod isn't the most stable. this is the remote i use, it cost a whopping $3: http://www.dx.com/p/wireless-ir-remote-control-for-pentax-camera-1-cr2025-65144#.VIQwA6TF8Xc

[Hexism]

When we say wide aperture, we mean a small number, which corresponds to a large opening. It's a little confusing, i know, but you'll get used to it. In the case of your kit lens, the widest aperture will be F3.5 at a wide angle (zoomed out) and 5.6 when zoomed in. An example of an inexpensive, good, fast lens (we say fast when we mean that it's widest aperture is large, usually 2.8 or larger is considered to be a fast lens) is this one: Pentax 35mm DA L F2.4 AL Lens 21987 B&H Photo Video
I don't own one myself (yet, it's next on my list :P), but it's known for being sharp, but affordable for anyone, and it's a good focal length prime.
Good luck! There's a lot to learn

EDIT: it may also be smart for you to get a remote, you can get them really cheaply, and it minimises the shake from pressing the shutter button, which can be quite noticeable, especially if you're on unsteady ground/your tripod isn't the most stable. this is the remote i use, it cost a whopping $3: Wireless IR Remote Control for Pentax Camera (1*CR2025) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

$3 looks good! Will get it.

Dumb question: It seems like, from the manual, all you have to do is focus it, then turn into remote mode, and use the remote. There is no configuration needed? Basically anyone with a remote can control my camera? lol

How about this lens?

Pentax 55mm F1 8 SMC Takumar M42 Lens 55 1 8 659 | eBay

SMC Pentax 55mm F1.8 Reviews - K Prime Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database

The aperture is wider (smaller number & larger opening) and cheaper too!

Also, if I were to take night photography on the kit lens, its best to take picture zooomed out i guess? Right?

[ZoeB]

Yeah, that's basically it. The little IR remotes have a pretty limited distance, only a metre or two, though, and you usually have to point them at the sender on your camera, which is a little red light on the grip that flashes when you're in remote mode. The ebay listing and the lens review you've posted aren't the same lens, the ebay listing is for an M42 screw mount lens, whereas the review listing is a K-mount lens (this is the type of mount that your camera has). Here's a similar lens with the right mount: Pentax A SMC Lens F 1 7 50mm | eBay
Make sure that you check what type of mount you're looking at! but you've got the right idea, the fast fifty lens is kinda ubiquitous as a part of most people's kits. The other thing you should note is that most of the cheap lenses you'll find on ebay will be manual-- no autofocus, and with a manual aperture ring. Manual lenses are great, but they take some getting used to, and a lot of practice to focus well, especially in low light conditions. That having been said, I shoot almost exclusively manual-- it's great to really get in tune with your photography.

Lastly, you've got it! Zooming out on the kit lens allows for a wider aperture, which lets more light onto your sensor

[bsamcash]

How about this lens?

Pentax 55mm F1 8 SMC Takumar M42 Lens 55 1 8 659 | eBay

While that is a fantastic lens for portraits, it may be a bit on the long end for everyday shooting. To figure out which focal length best fits you, check the metadata of the photos you've taken with the kit lens and see which focal length you use most often. It's likely to be anywhere from 18mm to 35mm.

[Hexism]

Yeah, that's basically it. The little IR remotes have a pretty limited distance, only a metre or two, though, and you usually have to point them at the sender on your camera, which is a little red light on the grip that flashes when you're in remote mode. The ebay listing and the lens review you've posted aren't the same lens, the ebay listing is for an M42 screw mount lens, whereas the review listing is a K-mount lens (this is the type of mount that your camera has). Here's a similar lens with the right mount: Pentax A SMC Lens F 1 7 50mm | eBay
Make sure that you check what type of mount you're looking at! but you've got the right idea, the fast fifty lens is kinda ubiquitous as a part of most people's kits. The other thing you should note is that most of the cheap lenses you'll find on ebay will be manual-- no autofocus, and with a manual aperture ring. Manual lenses are great, but they take some getting used to, and a lot of practice to focus well, especially in low light conditions. That having been said, I shoot almost exclusively manual-- it's great to really get in tune with your photography.

Lastly, you've got it! Zooming out on the kit lens allows for a wider aperture, which lets more light onto your sensor

Thank you Zoe

Also, thanks for searching through eBay for me as well.

That seems like a steal!!! $30!!!

I have yet to fully understand manual focus. Hope its not something too difficult.....

If I have a strict budget, would that be the lens you would recommend if I want to do better in night photography without a tripod?

While that is a fantastic lens for portraits, it may be a bit on the long end for everyday shooting. To figure out which focal length best fits you, check the metadata of the photos you've taken with the kit lens and see which focal length you use most often. It's likely to be anywhere from 18mm to 35mm.

Yeah. I don't see myself zooming that much. When you say long end it means the smaller number right?

For example: 18-35mm of 18-55mm

Thank you

[bsamcash]

When you say long end it means the smaller number right?

When I say "longer end" I am referring to the longer focal lengths of the lens, i.e. between 45mm and 55mm (in comparison to the kit lens). The terminology can be confusing at first, but you'll get it.

For APS-C sized sensors, focal lengths are often referred to as ultra-wide (<15mm), wide (~15-24mm), normal wide (~24-28mm), normal (~28-35mm), long normal/portrait (~35-58mm), short telephoto (~58-85mm), telephoto (~85-300mm), super telephoto (>300mm).

Or at least that's how I understand it.

[Hexism]

When I say "longer end" I am referring to the longer focal lengths of the lens, i.e. between 45mm and 55mm (in comparison to the kit lens). The terminology can be confusing at first, but you'll get it.

For APS-C sized sensors, focal lengths are often referred to as ultra-wide (<15mm), wide (~15-24mm), normal wide (~24-28mm), normal (~28-35mm), long normal/portrait (~35-58mm), short telephoto (~58-85mm), telephoto (~85-300mm), super telephoto (>300mm).

Or at least that's how I understand it.

Thanks! That is much more clearer.

I thought it works with the opposite rule like the wide aperture. Haha.

[ZoeB]

When you say night photography, it can mean a few different things. Do you mean shots similar to the one you've posted here? Or things along the line of this:
http://nightlightphotos.tumblr.com/post/104433206086/out-photographing-the-p...as-lights-this
as well? All of the shots in that post are taken without a tripod, using a Pentax-M 50mm f1.4, which is a fantastic lens. If you're more interested in street scenes, you might consider a 20mm or 35mm, these are wider angle lenses that are better for more landscape-y images. When we say wide/wide angle, we mean zoomed out, so long means zoomed in, the 35-55mm end of your kit lens.

Note: wider lenses tend to be a little more expensive. And really, don't discount the powers of a tripod. A $30 tripod works fine for most settings on fairly flat surfaces, and really, really helps with image sharpness and stabilisation.