Night Help with moon shots

**Banskojoe** · 11-19-2018, 08:41 PM

K-50 with DA*300. No filter. Shake reduction off. Manfrotto 3021Pro. 12 second timer. Autofocus.

I'm going in for cataract surgery, but I think photo quality is being affected by technique or equipment.

Suggestions please.

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tokyoscape · 11-19-2018, 08:54 PM

I would "manual focus" instead of autofocus. Find subject at infinity distance to manual focus then point the camera at the moon.

jspi · 11-19-2018, 09:15 PM

12 seconds? I used 1/200 second for mine because I usually get some blur when I use long exposures with the moon (took me a while to figure that out). You can look at these, see what you think, and use the EXIF data for a reference.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskNMHiDg

**ToddK** · 11-19-2018, 09:38 PM

I am no expert but have taken several moon shots, and I agree with jspi, I think your exposure is way too long. I looked at one where I used a Sigma 120-400 and shot at 400mm at f29, 1/50th of a second and ISO200 (I am not sure why I didn't go at ISO 100 and open it up a stop). It was certainly not perfect, but was pretty sharp.

GeoJerry · 11-19-2018, 09:48 PM

Your EXIF says the shutter speed was 1/100 sec, so I assume by "12 second timer" you mean you activated the timer in order to eliminate shake due to pressing the shutter. A 12 second exposure of the moon would be OOF but I have to believe your EXIF. I think the problem may be your use of autofocus mode. I don't know the K-50, but does it have a spot focus mode? If so, try using that after you've centered the lens on the moon.

**UncleVanya** · 11-20-2018, 09:45 AM

On the k-50 you are better off using the 2 second self timer. The 2 second version flips the mirror up and does not drop it before the shot as far as I recall. This is the best way to reduce mirror induced shake. The 12 second timer from what I recall flips the mirror down and back up right before the shot.

Also with moon shots I tend to use a little higher ISO and higher shutter speed if I'm recalling correctly.

---------- Post added 11-20-18 at 11:46 AM ----------

What head on the tripod? Steady? Balanced weight with lens and body?

---------- Post added 11-20-18 at 11:47 AM ----------

I use live view manual focus on my shots and look carefully at the focus peaking. The edges are good for this.

DeadJohn · 11-20-2018, 12:25 PM

I'll echo the comments suggesting manual focus.

If you still want to try autofocus, do it via liveview and set focus point over the edge of the moon. That gives a high contrast target. It also removes the possibility of lens focus calibration needing to be fine-tuned.

Rnovo · 11-20-2018, 06:54 PM

Photographing the moon is like working in broad daylight, same exposures, the sun illuminating the moon is like the sun on earth - don't be fooled by the black sky and use "manual exposure" so nothing will change as you keep shooting. As for focusing I agree with all who suggest using live view. I don't know the K50 but on the K5 I press the "Info" button repeatedly to zoom up to X 6 and only then do I focus in "manual", shoot and repeat as required. I never use any AF - too unreliable and useless. Focus peaking sounds good too, as says UncleVania - never tried it(?).

**UncleVanya** · 11-21-2018, 02:13 PM

Originally posted by Rnovo

Photographing the moon is like working in broad daylight, same exposures, the sun illuminating the moon is like the sun on earth - don't be fooled by the black sky and use "manual exposure" so nothing will change as you keep shooting. As for focusing I agree with all who suggest using live view. I don't know the K50 but on the K5 I press the "Info" button repeatedly to zoom up to X 6 and only then do I focus in "manual", shoot and repeat as required. I never use any AF - too unreliable and useless. Focus peaking sounds good too, as says UncleVania - never tried it(?).

I think the K5 lacks focus peaking. I use the magnified focus and focus peaking both.

**Larrymc** · 11-23-2018, 10:26 AM

Originally posted by Banskojoe

K-50 with DA*300. No filter. Shake reduction off. Manfrotto 3021Pro. 12 second timer. Autofocus.

I'm going in for cataract surgery, but I think photo quality is being affected by technique or equipment.

Suggestions please.

As others have said use live view with focus peaking zoomed in and focus manually. The moon is travelling through space at over 2200 miles per hour so you need a reasonably fast shutter speed even at this relative distance also use spot metering. Also use either a wireless shutter release or a wired one. after focusing you shouldn't need to refocus during shots unless you missed on the first try. After manual focusing with focus peaking and before triggering the shutter let the camera and tripod settle down for a few seconds to reduce oscillation induced by focusing.

Here is a shot taken in 2014 with my K-50 if you care to check the EXIF just click on the image and go to Flickr to look at the camera setting in the EXIF file. This was taken with an older Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 APO DG Macro zoom not the sharpest out there for sure.

Pelto · 11-26-2018, 10:58 PM

Also read ‘Astro beginners guide to shooting the moon’ by MossyRocks : Beginners guide to shooting the moon - PentaxForums.com

ZombieArmy · 11-27-2018, 02:35 AM

Originally posted by UncleVanya

I think the K5 lacks focus peaking. I use the magnified focus and focus peaking both.

I don't use peaking for any astro target. At least on the k-01 it's just wildly inaccurate.

**UncleVanya** · 11-27-2018, 10:02 AM

Originally posted by ZombieArmy

I don't use peaking for any astro target. At least on the k-01 it's just wildly inaccurate.

I've never used it EXCEPT for the moon. On the edge of the moon I find it helpful. This is particularly true with the FA* 300 with stacked TC's (1.4 and 1.7).

pschlute · 11-27-2018, 10:30 AM

Problem is either focus (try the methods suggested above), or mirror/shutter vibration. You don't have the option for electronic shutter on the K50 so try to get the shutter speed above 1/250. No need to use f11, use f5.6

**UncleVanya** · 11-27-2018, 10:59 AM

Originally posted by pschlute

Problem is either focus (try the methods suggested above), or mirror/shutter vibration. You don't have the option for electronic shutter on the K50 so try to get the shutter speed above 1/250. No need to use f11, use f5.6

Depending on the lens it could help with CA... but so would conversion to B&W.

11-23-2018, 10:26 AM	#10
Larrymc Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Mississippi, USA Posts: 5,251	Originally posted by Banskojoe K-50 with DA300. No filter. Shake reduction off. Manfrotto 3021Pro. 12 second timer. Autofocus. I'm going in for cataract surgery, but I think photo quality is being affected by technique or equipment. Suggestions please. As others have said use live view with focus peaking zoomed in and focus manually. The moon is travelling through space at over 2200 miles per hour so you need a reasonably fast shutter speed even at this relative distance also use spot metering. Also use either a wireless shutter release or a wired one. after focusing you shouldn't need to refocus during shots unless you missed on the first try. After manual focusing with focus peaking and before triggering the shutter let the camera and tripod settle down for a few seconds to reduce oscillation induced by focusing. Here is a shot taken in 2014 with my K-50 if you care to check the EXIF just click on the image and go to Flickr to look at the camera setting in the EXIF file. This was taken with an older Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 APO DG Macro zoom not the sharpest out there for sure. Last edited by Larrymc; 11-23-2018 at 10:48 AM.*

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11-19-2018, 08:54 PM	#2
tokyoscape Inactive Account Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Tokyo Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,256	I would "manual focus" instead of autofocus. Find subject at infinity distance to manual focus then point the camera at the moon.

11-19-2018, 09:15 PM	#3
jspi Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2018 Posts: 261	12 seconds? I used 1/200 second for mine because I usually get some blur when I use long exposures with the moon (took me a while to figure that out). You can look at these, see what you think, and use the EXIF data for a reference. https://flic.kr/s/aHskNMHiDg

11-19-2018, 09:38 PM	#4
ToddK Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Texas Hill Country Photos: Gallery Posts: 11,532	I am no expert but have taken several moon shots, and I agree with jspi, I think your exposure is way too long. I looked at one where I used a Sigma 120-400 and shot at 400mm at f29, 1/50th of a second and ISO200 (I am not sure why I didn't go at ISO 100 and open it up a stop). It was certainly not perfect, but was pretty sharp.

11-19-2018, 09:48 PM	#5
GeoJerry Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Santa Barbara, CA Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,158	Your EXIF says the shutter speed was 1/100 sec, so I assume by "12 second timer" you mean you activated the timer in order to eliminate shake due to pressing the shutter. A 12 second exposure of the moon would be OOF but I have to believe your EXIF. I think the problem may be your use of autofocus mode. I don't know the K-50, but does it have a spot focus mode? If so, try using that after you've centered the lens on the moon.

11-20-2018, 09:45 AM	#6
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,401	On the k-50 you are better off using the 2 second self timer. The 2 second version flips the mirror up and does not drop it before the shot as far as I recall. This is the best way to reduce mirror induced shake. The 12 second timer from what I recall flips the mirror down and back up right before the shot. Also with moon shots I tend to use a little higher ISO and higher shutter speed if I'm recalling correctly. ---------- Post added 11-20-18 at 11:46 AM ---------- What head on the tripod? Steady? Balanced weight with lens and body? ---------- Post added 11-20-18 at 11:47 AM ---------- I use live view manual focus on my shots and look carefully at the focus peaking. The edges are good for this.

11-20-2018, 12:25 PM	#7
DeadJohn Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: New York Posts: 4,833	I'll echo the comments suggesting manual focus. If you still want to try autofocus, do it via liveview and set focus point over the edge of the moon. That gives a high contrast target. It also removes the possibility of lens focus calibration needing to be fine-tuned.

11-20-2018, 06:54 PM	#8
Rnovo Closed Account Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 415	Photographing the moon is like working in broad daylight, same exposures, the sun illuminating the moon is like the sun on earth - don't be fooled by the black sky and use "manual exposure" so nothing will change as you keep shooting. As for focusing I agree with all who suggest using live view. I don't know the K50 but on the K5 I press the "Info" button repeatedly to zoom up to X 6 and only then do I focus in "manual", shoot and repeat as required. I never use any AF - too unreliable and useless. Focus peaking sounds good too, as says UncleVania - never tried it(?).

11-21-2018, 02:13 PM	#9
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,401	Originally posted by Rnovo Photographing the moon is like working in broad daylight, same exposures, the sun illuminating the moon is like the sun on earth - don't be fooled by the black sky and use "manual exposure" so nothing will change as you keep shooting. As for focusing I agree with all who suggest using live view. I don't know the K50 but on the K5 I press the "Info" button repeatedly to zoom up to X 6 and only then do I focus in "manual", shoot and repeat as required. I never use any AF - too unreliable and useless. Focus peaking sounds good too, as says UncleVania - never tried it(?). I think the K5 lacks focus peaking. I use the magnified focus and focus peaking both.

11-26-2018, 10:58 PM	#11
Pelto Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: West Denmark Posts: 226	Also read ‘Astro beginners guide to shooting the moon’ by MossyRocks : Beginners guide to shooting the moon - PentaxForums.com

11-27-2018, 02:35 AM	#12
ZombieArmy Pentaxian Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Florida Posts: 3,210	Originally posted by UncleVanya I think the K5 lacks focus peaking. I use the magnified focus and focus peaking both. I don't use peaking for any astro target. At least on the k-01 it's just wildly inaccurate.

11-27-2018, 10:02 AM	#13
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,401	Originally posted by ZombieArmy I don't use peaking for any astro target. At least on the k-01 it's just wildly inaccurate. I've never used it EXCEPT for the moon. On the edge of the moon I find it helpful. This is particularly true with the FA* 300 with stacked TC's (1.4 and 1.7).

11-27-2018, 10:30 AM	#14
pschlute Moderator Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Surrey, UK Photos: Gallery Posts: 8,198	Problem is either focus (try the methods suggested above), or mirror/shutter vibration. You don't have the option for electronic shutter on the K50 so try to get the shutter speed above 1/250. No need to use f11, use f5.6

11-27-2018, 10:59 AM	#15
UncleVanya Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jul 2014 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 28,401	Originally posted by pschlute Problem is either focus (try the methods suggested above), or mirror/shutter vibration. You don't have the option for electronic shutter on the K50 so try to get the shutter speed above 1/250. No need to use f11, use f5.6 Depending on the lens it could help with CA... but so would conversion to B&W.